phils C5 vette

About two months after posting this thread, I went back into it and edited the thread to add additional information. The pictures are at the end of the thread. The car still runs great !

Start :

Im going to run to Autozone now and get some blue lock tight after coffee and start to removed the LS6.

I do have a couple little league games this afternoon, so we'll see how this DIY goes.

This 2 hour job should take me 2 days..........

Vette-Red

Good luck and I'll let you know how mine goes..... From your spelling it looks like you needed some coffee....

phils C5 vette

Thank god for spell check.
Ive got the coffee in me. Picked up the thread locker, and let the games begin.

phils C5 vette

Ive got the fuel rail and attachments unhooks and Im at the manifold 8mm bolts. Im taking my time with a lot of pictures with labels on connections so I can find my way back home

I used a fuel line disconnect tool I purchased when I installed my 30 LBS injectors. I had a couple small party ballons in the garage which I used to cap the fuel line and the fuel rail. This prevented fuel from going everywhere. They brake kind of easy, so I used two ballons on both ends.

I left the injectors and fuel rail on the LS6 manifold until I removed it from the car.

phils C5 vette

note to self. stretch hamstrings and back before removing the 10 valley bolts

phils C5 vette

Okay LS6 manifold and throttle body are out of the car. Take them out as one piece. Thanks to a little help from my wife. I think she chipped a nail. Ill have to add that into the cost

Do not drag the manifold forward off the heads. Lift it up about an inch, then bring if forward. Bring it out a four inchs, and disconnect the brake, MAP, and vacuum lines

As a side not, I had 1/4 plastic tubing that I cut two 3/4 inch pieces. I slliced them long ways so I could wrap them around the rear two valley bolts. You can't take them out of the manifold in the car, and the 3/4 inch tubing around the bolt keeps them up enough to remove the manifold.

You'll want to do the same thing when you install the FAST

phils C5 vette

I taped off the intake of the heads and cleaned up the valley area. There was a very little amount of oil at the intake ports of the heads. I had the dealer re-ring the car 3 years ago, and it looks like it solved my oil burning problem. Nothing really to note as far as oil under the manifold area. Normal id say.

OK next Ill have to move the parts from the LS6 to the FAST. I love the smell of fuel in the morning.

So far the FAST directions are clear and on target

edcmat-l1

Workers comp!!

phils C5 vette

okay so you got me scared on how tight I should make the throttle body to the FAST. It's snugged up pretty good. Id rather undertight, and tighten later, than bust the front of the intake.

As EDCMAT-l1 explained to me, make sure there is a little gap at each of the four corner where the throttle body bolts up to the FAST. If the ears of the manifold start to bend towards the TB, losen it up some. THERE SHOULD BE A SMALL EVEN GAP ON ALL FOUR CORNERS WHERE THE TB MEETS THE MANIFOLD.

My useless TQ wrench goes up to 75 lbs.

Ive got the fuel rail and injects in, throttle body on, and im trying to figure out the Ligenfelter MAP relocation kit

edcmat-l1

For the T-body, just make sure the gap between the t-body and manifold looks uniform all the way around. It'll look like it needs to be tighter.

phils C5 vette

Im looking at picture at McLeod's 90/90 and I see the Throttle body motor bolts up on the passenger side of the car.

When benched, the throttle body will bolt on smoothly either way, the problem will be when you put the manifold on the car, the TB motor will not clear. ( yes I learned the hard way )

phils C5 vette

Getting the plug in the back of the FAST for the MAP relocation kit was a pain. I was a little affraid on how big to bore the hole out. You do have to take out a good amount of plastic to make it fit. I driled it then tried to fit it about 6 times before it fit. If you make the hole to big, you'll be looking at buying a new FAST cover, or applying some kind of epoxy to fill the hole, and redrill it. Its better to go slow here.

I got the plug in, and it's lunch break.

After lunch Ill get the front of the relocation kit it and hit the showers for a little league game

Cobra4B

WTF no pics!!! Seal you knock sensors while you're in there so you can wash your motor w/o worry.

cmb396

Sounds like you're having fun!! When are you going to get to the dyno and have it tuned?? I am still waiting to see how you compare to my setup...which is nearly identical!!

phils C5 vette

The FAST is ready to go in, but I ran out of time. Shower and ballgame, then Ill start back after dinner. It took longer than expected to switch over parts and put the relocation kit in.

Ill be baaaaaack

Bob K

Remember to post the pictures!! Kevin (WKMCD) mentioned that FAST will make an intake for the L92's so I'll need pictures so I don't have to read anything similar to instructions.

Bob K.

phils C5 vette

Okay,
Back home buttoning this thing together now.

Putting on the FAST intake gaskets

Brake, MAP and small nipple going on after that

phils C5 vette

now to get the 90/90 back on the car. Same rules here as taking off. get those little 3/4 inch pieces of hose that hold up the rear valley bolts and get them on the rear bolts. I put thread locker on the valley bolts. Some said it's not nessessary.

That litte vacuum hose nipple in the rear of the FAST is a B)*^%tch to get on. But I got it.
I was told that I should get a 6 inch 1/8 hose extention for the vacuum, but I didnt. It's a pain to get it to connect, but you can do it. 6 inch hose extention would make it much easier

I did a sure up dry fit before I lock tight the valley bolts just to make sure it fits in. You'll kind of feel when it falls into place.

I did have to tap with a hammer my metal water coolant lines a couple times with a 2X3 piece of wood just to make sure the FAST would not hit it on the front corner. I needed just a couple taps

phils C5 vette

Sure up went good, then I realized I forgot to put locker on the rear threads. If it look like Ill have to undo that rear vacuum line to add locker to the rear bolts, I wont lol

phils C5 vette

ok I was able to remove the back bolts and add thread lock. Those rear bolts are a FOCKER with an allen wrench

I hand tighten all the valley bolts first ( following the tightening squence in the instructions ). I pushed down in the manifold and hand tighten them just a little more. ( the rear two are difficult )