Clicking rear axle fix needed
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
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From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
For more specific info, go to Nord-Lock's website.
http://www.nord-lock.com/nord-lock/w.../introduction/
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 36,836
Likes: 244
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Btw, "lubing" should include more than just removing the axle nut and spraying penetrent into the axle splines. Pry the bearing hub/spindle away from the a bit and spray on, or into, the backside area between the hub and the outer axle CV joint. I would use white lithium grease and not WD40, etc, at least in that area.
HTH
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,938
Likes: 65
From: Rochester Hills MI
i just checked the service manual, and couldn't find anything about what kind of lubricant to use on the axle splines or if the axle nut should be dry or lubed. Has anyone else found it in there? Maybe I'm not looking hard enough.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 36,836
Likes: 244
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
If GM thought it worthwhile, even if only on the C6 ZR1 cars, then it stands to reason it has merit. So may say "over kill" (washer), but considering for the relatively cheap cost, ESPECIALLY on cars with significant performance mods, it's a win, win.
One thing I WOULD do regardless, is wire brush/clean the axle threads and after assembly of everything, apply a thin coat on the remaining axle threads sticking out, to prevent future rust.
Last edited by LoneStarFRC; Mar 13, 2015 at 06:58 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,938
Likes: 65
From: Rochester Hills MI
I just find it strange because every other car I've seen calls for axle grease on the splines and nut face. Now for the splines it's just corrosion preventative, but for the nut face the clamping force would be considerably different with a dry nut than a lubed nut, so I'm surprised this important piece of information is not included. Perhaps this is why people are facing this issue because they are not lubing the nut face. Just a thought.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 36,836
Likes: 244
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
I just find it strange because every other car I've seen calls for axle grease on the splines and nut face. Now for the splines it's just corrosion preventative, but for the nut face the clamping force would be considerably different with a dry nut than a lubed nut, so I'm surprised this important piece of information is not included. Perhaps this is why people are facing this issue because they are not lubing the nut face. Just a thought.
GM considers the nut a single-use item and does not list, show, or recommend any lube. GM engineers, in their infinite wisdom, are very aware of torquing issues, etc I'm sure.
As far as the washer goes, Nord-Lock says do NOT use any lube under the washer. Clean and dry.
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Racer
Joined: Mar 2014
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Update: So I replaced the spindle nuts, again, this time using the lock washers from the zr1 and retorqued to 150# and.....it worked! For 5 minutes, now the drivers side is doing it again. Why would this temporarily work? What's the problem here? I'm going nuts.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,938
Likes: 65
From: Rochester Hills MI
Pun intended? lol. Did you remove the axle from the hub and clean the splines on the axle and in the hub, and re-pack the splines with axle grease? You have to make sure to do a really good job of cleaning the splines and the clamping surface inside the hub where the axle and hub contact.
