hard to put in reverse 6spd.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,819
Likes: 5
From: Annapolis Md.
hard to put in reverse 6spd.
I replaced my 6speed about 1,000 mikes ago, and now I have a hard time getting reverse. Yesterday, I had a hard time getting it into 1st. It does not grind, just have to keep trying and it magically goes in. Does my B & M shifter need to be adjusted???
Instructor
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 111
Likes: 0
From: Barrie Ontario
My stock shifter does the same thing sometimes when I try to put it in reverse. It won't pop in gear, sometimes I will have to go first to reverse a couple times and then it will go. Or I will roll the car forward or back a bit and it will go into gear no problem. I don't think anything is wrong but then again I'm not an expert. Hopefully everything is ok!
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 10,554
Likes: 33
From: Not on either liberal coast.
It's possible since you recently changed your shifter that the 1/4-20 fasteners have simply loosened up, causing a misalignment of the shifter.
You'll need to remove the radio surround/console trim again to check.
Use the oem shifter alignment pin from your oem shifter to maintain the shifter in neutral when you loosen the four fasteners and re-torque to 8-10 ft #.
If you didn't use any thread sealant, use a small dab of blue LOCKTITE to secure the fasteners. If you used the oem shifter fasteners, they're to short for the B&M billet base plate. You'll need to use the supplied B&M longer fasteners, or hardware grade 5 (or grade 8) 1/4-20 bolts that are approx. 1/4" longer than the oem bolts.
Also, check the condition of the two bushings under the large TORX bolts that secure the shifter above the torque tube. Those can deteriorate and/or the TORX bolts loosen. Replace those bushings if necessary and re-torque to specs.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1836867
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1836079
You'll need to remove the radio surround/console trim again to check.
Use the oem shifter alignment pin from your oem shifter to maintain the shifter in neutral when you loosen the four fasteners and re-torque to 8-10 ft #.
If you didn't use any thread sealant, use a small dab of blue LOCKTITE to secure the fasteners. If you used the oem shifter fasteners, they're to short for the B&M billet base plate. You'll need to use the supplied B&M longer fasteners, or hardware grade 5 (or grade 8) 1/4-20 bolts that are approx. 1/4" longer than the oem bolts.
Also, check the condition of the two bushings under the large TORX bolts that secure the shifter above the torque tube. Those can deteriorate and/or the TORX bolts loosen. Replace those bushings if necessary and re-torque to specs.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1836867
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1836079
Last edited by hotwheels57; Oct 17, 2007 at 01:47 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 10,554
Likes: 33
From: Not on either liberal coast.
It's common for the fasteners to loosen, hence the suggestion to use LOCKTITE thread lock. I use both LOCKTITE and lock washers. I included two recent discussions of similar complaints of poor shifting or rattles, also probably due to the same issue. 
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,226
Likes: 45
From: Castleton VA
Cruise-In VIII Veteran
I would definitely check for loose bolts and adjustment. If these are ok and you start thinking it's the tranny, I occassionally have trouble going into reverse. I picked up a hint here that shifting into second will align the bits to make it easier to go into reverse. Works every (rare) time I have trouble with reverse in my MN6.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 3,447
Likes: 6
From: Los Angeles
It's possible since you recently changed your shifter that the 1/4-20 fasteners have simply loosened up, causing a misalignment of the shifter.
You'll need to remove the radio surround/console trim again to check.
Use the oem shifter alignment pin from your oem shifter to maintain the shifter in neutral when you loosen the four fasteners and re-torque to 8-10 ft #.
If you didn't use any thread sealant, use a small dab of blue LOCKTITE to secure the fasteners. If you used the oem shifter fasteners, they're to short for the B&M billet base plate. You'll need to use the supplied B&M longer fasteners, or hardware grade 5 (or grade 8) 1/4-20 bolts that are approx. 1/4" longer than the oem bolts.
Also, check the condition of the two bushings under the large TORX bolts that secure the shifter above the torque tube. Those can deteriorate and/or the TORX bolts loosen. Replace those bushings if necessary and re-torque to specs.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1836867
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1836079
You'll need to remove the radio surround/console trim again to check.
Use the oem shifter alignment pin from your oem shifter to maintain the shifter in neutral when you loosen the four fasteners and re-torque to 8-10 ft #.
If you didn't use any thread sealant, use a small dab of blue LOCKTITE to secure the fasteners. If you used the oem shifter fasteners, they're to short for the B&M billet base plate. You'll need to use the supplied B&M longer fasteners, or hardware grade 5 (or grade 8) 1/4-20 bolts that are approx. 1/4" longer than the oem bolts.
Also, check the condition of the two bushings under the large TORX bolts that secure the shifter above the torque tube. Those can deteriorate and/or the TORX bolts loosen. Replace those bushings if necessary and re-torque to specs.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1836867
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1836079
What if I do not have the stock shifter alignment pin? I adopted this C5 and it had the hurst already in it. Is there something else I can use?
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 10,554
Likes: 33
From: Not on either liberal coast.
This is probably the best post I've seen on the topic. I really need to check this when I have the console off this weekend. I'm betting part of my "hurst rattle" is to blame on this. 1st/Rev sometimes take a little TLC to lock in too.
What if I do not have the stock shifter alignment pin? I adopted this C5 and it had the hurst already in it. Is there something else I can use?
What if I do not have the stock shifter alignment pin? I adopted this C5 and it had the hurst already in it. Is there something else I can use?
You could probably use an appropriate sized nail, drill bit or drift punch to accomplish the same thing. Just make sure it fits tightly into the alignment pin hole so it's holding neutral as accurately as possible.
With a HURST or any after market shifter that has adjustable stops, you might also need to adjust the shift stops with the jamb nuts on both front and backsides. I don't know the exact clearances, but I'll bet HURST/B&M could provide that...or someone with their installation instructions.
Last edited by hotwheels57; Oct 19, 2007 at 07:23 PM.
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 122
Likes: 0
From: Tri-Valley(East Bay) CA
Even when I line up the syncros (1-2-R) I still have that light grind noise that, even with the clutch depressed, will remain and slowly taper off.
I still think I might take it in...cause its REALLY embarrassing when you feel like youre in gear and you grind 4 times in a row
-Brandon
Tech Contributor
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 41,037
Likes: 9,801
From: Charlotte, NC (formerly Endicott, NY)
Probably doesn't have anything to do with the shifter. You are probably getting some gear clash when trying to get into reverse and may not have gotten through all of the synchronizers on the shift to first which can be hard on a cold tranny in cold weather. Both can be handled by lightly pushing the shifter into the gear you want and slowly letting the clutch out. When the gear turns in the tranny you will feel the shifter move a little more and the tranny will be fully into gear.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 2,721
Likes: 4
From: Elizabethtown
I have the same problem to! I notice it more now since its getting really cold. I put it in first and it will go easy into reverse. I hate it, I thought it was just me.
Whenever you find out what it is let the rest of us with the same symptons know how to fix it. cause it seems like alot of us have it.lol
Whenever you find out what it is let the rest of us with the same symptons know how to fix it. cause it seems like alot of us have it.lol
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 768
Likes: 6
From: Newport Beach, Southern California
Ok
I spent a lot of time investigating same problem on my `98 mn6.
The reverse gear on your C5 does NOT have a synchro period!
When tranny is cold everything is 10 times worse because fluid is thicker.
For getting it into 1st from a dead stop, go second then first.
In my opinion gear clash is the culprit in most cases that`s why wiggling the car forwards in backwards will make the shifter go in any gear most of the cases.
I think these trannies are very bulky and not very precise.
You wil NEVER have this problem with a Honda or Toyota!
I spent a lot of time investigating same problem on my `98 mn6.
The reverse gear on your C5 does NOT have a synchro period!
When tranny is cold everything is 10 times worse because fluid is thicker.
For getting it into 1st from a dead stop, go second then first.
In my opinion gear clash is the culprit in most cases that`s why wiggling the car forwards in backwards will make the shifter go in any gear most of the cases.
I think these trannies are very bulky and not very precise.
You wil NEVER have this problem with a Honda or Toyota!
Former Vendor
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 2,719
Likes: 3
From: Anderson Indiana
Incorrect. The factory reverse blocking ring is made up of brass. When we build our units we upgrade them to the compressed carbon lined rings. This will aid in stopping the reverse gear and keep the engagement teeth on the gear and the slider sharper. I suggest putting the shifter in 1st or 2nd gear then into reverse once the gear train is stopped.
