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Alright,
In my long list of things to fix since i got this car, the one that has been the most annoying is my drivers window. It dosn't leak, wobbles in the track when it is up all the way. I get some serious wind noise when i am cruising above 70. It also makes a clunking noise when i shut the door. Has anyone had this problem.
There are adjustment screws behind the plastic plate on the door below the arm rest. I recommend you look up the process to adjusting these screws before changing them because one adjusts the forward/backward positioning and the other adjusts the tilt in/out. I does sound like you might have a loose window mechanism and adjusting them wouldn't be the solution anyway. I hope these two ideas will help.
I have adjusted those screws and it did not help. Is it possible to replace the window mechanism in the door, or do i have to replace the whole door?? My window still works, but if i just need to replace the window motor/regulator I will. It kinda makes the crunching noise.
It looks like the rubber that supports the window is allowing it to move. The clamp is tight and so are the bolts on the window motor assembly. Does anyone know how to take the window motor assembly out of the car? I know it is a common problem, and may people have fixed it, but i have never seen a how to.
Thanks
jason
No one has posted detailed pictures that show every step, but the main steps are:
Remove the door panel.
Mark the location of the window (I use masking tape along the outside weatherstrip). With the glass in the full up position, loosen the clamp bolts at each end of the glass through the access holes and remove the glass through the top of the door.
Remove the speaker in the lower front of the door. Unplug the wiring to the motor.
Remove the cable tie that is fastened to the inside of the door to keep the drive cables out of the way of the glass. (NOTE, do not cut this cable tie off the new assembly. It is there for a reason)
Remove the access panel at the rear of the door. Then remove the window regulator bolts at the bottom of the door. The front one is behind a rubber plug in the bottom of the door, and the rear one is behind where the reflector fits. Remove the 3 bolts in the middle of the door holding the motor. Remove the top 2 bolts on the regulator assembly along the top edge of the door.
The whole assembly should now fold up and can be removed through the rear access panel.
Make sure the jack bolts on the window guides at the top of the new assembly are adjusted to match the old one, and the rear adjusting screw is approx. where the old one was.
Install the new assembly. (remember to connect the wiring to the motor). Install the glass so that it matches your marks, and make sure it is centered in the door opening with the door closed. You may need to have someone help center it from the outside while you tighten the bolts from the inside.
Be careful rolling the window down with the door panel off. The top of the door panel serves as a guide for the glass, and with it off, the glass could drag on the regulator assembly or other part of the door.
Last edited by TEXHAWK0; Oct 21, 2007 at 07:45 PM.
Thanks for the instructions TEX. I will probably order my new motor next week. I am leaving on a buisiness trip on tuesday and won't be around to get it, install it.
You say the glass wobbles with the clamps tight. Could you tell if there were rubber pads on both sides of the glass? or was the rubber just compressed where it could not hold the glass tight?
There is a post with a few pictures, but I cannot seem to find it. This is a common problem and it would be nice to have a complete set of pictures showing exactly where everything is located inside the door.
The rubber is still there, but it is worn and allows movement. Also the assembly clunks when i roll the window up/down because there is slack in the cable system. Def time to replace the unit.
I will make sure to take a lot of pics when i replace the unit. I am the fourth owner of this car, and the guy i bought it from did not know what he was doing so i have had a lot of little things like this to fix. This forum has been invaluable. on a side note, the female inner door skin retainer clip does not stay in the door when i pull the pannel off. Is there a glue that will work well to affix that piece to the door?
thanks
jason
The hardest part of the job is getting the door panel off without breaking any of the nylon fasteners out of the panel.
I used a heavy duty putty knife and was careful to get between the two parts of the fastener, not just pry on the door panel.
If you broke the mounting point on the door panel and still have the piece, then I would use JB Weld, or a good epoxy.
If you are trying to glue the nylon fastener, I don't know if any glue will really adhere to nylon with the amount of force that is on the fasteners.
I got some two part epoxy to fix it. The piece that attaches to the door that has the femal portion of the connection is what pulled through the door. I will take care of all of this probably in a week or so. I like working on my car, but i will be glad when all this little stuff is fixed.
Thanks again
Jason
I got some two part epoxy to fix it. The piece that attaches to the door that has the femal portion of the connection is what pulled through the door. I will take care of all of this probably in a week or so. I like working on my car, but i will be glad when all this little stuff is fixed.
Thanks again
Jason
IF the fastener is what is broken and not the hole in the door. you can buy replacement fasteners. Check the dealer or Ecklers.
This piece is fine, it actually made the hole in the door bigger, and pulled through. That is why i have to use the two part epoxy to affix this to my door.