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Old Oct 20, 2007 | 05:21 PM
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Default Headlight Door Problem

ON 2003 Z06: Four days ago I had a situation where I turned off headlights and rapidly turned on the parking/marker lights. When I did that, the left headlight door came back open maybe half to 3/4 of the normal full open position, but was not lit up. I decided to try cycling the headlights back on again. When I did, the right headlight came up and on, while the left headlight went back down and stayed down. I turned them off, and the right headlight went off and down, while the left headlight remained off, but came part-way up again.

Through several on/off cyclings, when I turn the headlights on, they both come up and are lighted. But the left headlight goes down first and then back up and on. It's operated this way for the last couple of days. I've manually put the left headlight down, and when they come on, everything is okay, but again, when I turn them off the left one cycles too far to a partial open, but off position.

Does anyone out there have a clue as to what the fix is???
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Old Oct 20, 2007 | 06:12 PM
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One of 2 things, either the headlamp control module is failing or the headlamp motor. You could install a test lamp across the outputs of the control module and time the up and down to compare it to the other side.
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Old Oct 20, 2007 | 06:12 PM
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From: Bugs Bunny should'a made a left turn here
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has that headlight motor ever had a gear replacement?
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Old Oct 20, 2007 | 06:28 PM
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Originally Posted by jdmvette
has that headlight motor ever had a gear replacement?
Yes, bronze gear installed about 4 months ago.
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Old Oct 20, 2007 | 09:00 PM
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From: Bugs Bunny should'a made a left turn here
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Originally Posted by half-fast
Yes, bronze gear installed about 4 months ago.
my guess is that the cap from the motor has come loose and the shaft is now pushing out too far. this will cause the motor to overturn when it closes because it is sliding off the little tab ear that tells the motor to stop.

because it doesn't stop, it will wind the lamp door back up to the half-open position that you are dealing with.

i had this very same thing happen to me just last week. to correct it, i resecured the motor cap but i also shimmed it with a fender washer inside the motor (on the brass gear) which took most of the play out of the motor shaft and would not allow it to slide.

so in a nutshell, i'd check those motors to verify that the cap is on and if the shaft has excessive play.
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Old Oct 21, 2007 | 12:21 AM
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Would it be a good idea to epoxy the 2 headlamp door actuator bodies (worm-gear motor/ to the driven plastic gear body)?
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My wife and I recently purchased a 02 vert. About the 2nd week of ownership my driver side HL door was grinding in the closed position. I yanked #3 fuse and manually closed it.

The gent selling those metal gears first mentioned to tighten the tabs connecting the worm gear motor housing to the plastic gear housing, as mentioned above, the play in the combined assembly will keep the gears from meshing & failure to cycle off.

With my wife's help, we took off the assembly and took a punch and hammer to the 4 tabs and bolted the motor and gear assembly back in place. For the moment (yes this very moment) the lights are working as expected (cheap fix...as mentioned...for the moment...I must say I'm practiced now in headlamp assemblies).

I thought about taking epoxy and smearing it around the 2 body housings...that stuff sets up like cement.

Not sure if that would be a good idea..maybe someone would chime in with comments.

side note question...on my 02, it appears there is no easy way to remove the headlamp motor's supply wires, Am I missing something here? I'm thinking there should be an easy way, (clip apart) to remove these wires from the motor so I can do this expected future gear surgery on the workbench.
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Old Oct 21, 2007 | 05:25 AM
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Originally Posted by jayindy
side note question...on my 02, it appears there is no easy way to remove the headlamp motor's supply wires, Am I missing something here? I'm thinking there should be an easy way, (clip apart) to remove these wires from the motor so I can do this expected future gear surgery on the workbench.
My thread might help: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1823603
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Old Oct 21, 2007 | 12:46 PM
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I have had the driver side assembly apart 3 times(i'm good at it now), and had I known all of the problems the headlights have I would have fixed it all at once. Sooo. Grinding is the bad gear motor. Headlight popping back up is the mechanism slipping past the plastic tips that tell the motor where to stop. I did not detach the motor(electric) to fix these. I did use epoxy to put the housing back together, and put washer method (from the forum site) to fix the pop up problem.
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Old Oct 22, 2007 | 03:16 AM
  #9  
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Default Headlight Door Problem

Originally Posted by jdmvette
my guess is that the cap from the motor has come loose and the shaft is now pushing out too far. this will cause the motor to overturn when it closes because it is sliding off the little tab ear that tells the motor to stop.

because it doesn't stop, it will wind the lamp door back up to the half-open position that you are dealing with.

i had this very same thing happen to me just last week. to correct it, i resecured the motor cap but i also shimmed it with a fender washer inside the motor (on the brass gear) which took most of the play out of the motor shaft and would not allow it to slide.

so in a nutshell, i'd check those motors to verify that the cap is on and if the shaft has excessive play.
Thanks, much! This was the basic problem. The epoxy used with the brass gear install did not hold. Also, I noticed the frontmost nylon stop cover was getting chewed up. It appeared that linkage was operating in a plane that was too far away from the bracket that the motor mounts to.

I after removing the motor, and cleaning up the cover plate and the base it gets epoxied to, I epoxied again with 5 min. Loctite epoxy, and clamped it down for about 20 min.

When installing the motor back on the bracket I slipped a washer between the motor case and the bracket. Wasn't the easiest thing to do, but I figured doing this would move the motor shaft a bit more towards the middle of the car and allow the linkage to more properly contact the stops.

All seems to be operational again. I have a bit of a squeak when the light doors go down. Not sure why, but I'll investigate a bit tomorrow.

Again, thanks for the help.
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Old Oct 22, 2007 | 12:10 PM
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From: Bugs Bunny should'a made a left turn here
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i'd watch the cover to make sure it doesn't pop off again. if the epoxy doesn't hold, you can try to keep the cap on with a mechanical means, such as the clamp that rodney sells or some other means.

glad you got it fixed!
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Old Oct 22, 2007 | 05:26 PM
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You guys are the best! I had the exact same problem (but I apparently didn't describe it as well)... so, based on what I read in this thread, I decided to remove my left headlight again (3rd or 4th time... no big deal by now) and sure enough! The epoxy had failed and the case was loose! I got some Permatex 5 min epoxy (they didn't have LocTite) and it is clamped and currently setting up. I am hopeful that this will be the end of my headlight removals! Thanks again to all who shared their expertise on this subject!

By the way, I did not clamp it before but I am a believer in doing so now! So if you are going to crack open the motor (for a gear change), clamp it! It may save you lots of grief.

Last edited by 2000_Convertible; Oct 22, 2007 at 05:29 PM.
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Old Oct 22, 2007 | 09:46 PM
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Originally Posted by 2000_Convertible
You guys are the best! I had the exact same problem (but I apparently didn't describe it as well)... so, based on what I read in this thread, I decided to remove my left headlight again (3rd or 4th time... no big deal by now) and sure enough! The epoxy had failed and the case was loose! I got some Permatex 5 min epoxy (they didn't have LocTite) and it is clamped and currently setting up. I am hopeful that this will be the end of my headlight removals! Thanks again to all who shared their expertise on this subject!

By the way, I did not clamp it before but I am a believer in doing so now! So if you are going to crack open the motor (for a gear change), clamp it! It may save you lots of grief.
glad this helped your issue too! i must have missed your previous thread. here is a PM i sent to the OP with more details regarding how i fixed the problem.

Originally Posted by jdmvette
yes, the epoxy most likely failed. i had to mechanically secure the lid on my motors with a wire fastener around the body when the glue wouldn't hold on mine. this last time i also wrapped the body up with strong zip ties to keep the lid on there.

there is supposed to be a bracket you can now buy from rodney dickman to secure the lid, but it wasn't available when i bought my gears a while back.

i knew i should have taken pics while i fixed it, but when the cap was back on, the shaft still wiggled about 1/4" or so within the housing. i put a large metal fender washer (that fits the shaft) on top of the gear and then put the cap on over it. the play was then reduced to a negligible amount.

i do not know the thickness of the washer but i made sure it was thin enough so the lid would close completely but thick enough so there was minimal play in the shaft. in the end, the washer freely spins with the gear so there should be no extra wear in the motor housing.

i secured the cap with the small wires and zip ties and put the motor back on the car and everything's been fine since.
hope this helps someone else in the future.
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Old Oct 22, 2007 | 11:22 PM
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JDM, are you referring to the T-brace that Dickman includes in his kits? If so, I had that... I am not aware of a clamp that he sells.
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Old Oct 23, 2007 | 07:40 AM
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From: Bugs Bunny should'a made a left turn here
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Originally Posted by 2000_Convertible
JDM, are you referring to the T-brace that Dickman includes in his kits? .
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Old Aug 23, 2024 | 06:35 PM
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This headlight issue is what i'm working on fixing now.
I ordered new insulator bump stops: http://rodneydickman.com/product_inf...roducts_id=309
I just want to mention for anyone having the problem of driver side headlight going down and popping back up about half way, the bump stop that is the issue isn't the two that are visible, the problem is the one that's near the headlight motor, and to get to it requires the cover to be removed, then it's simple to replace.
I had replaced both motors and was really disappointed when this problem happened I was thinking the gear in the new motor was bad already, glad it's an easy fix and not the motor gear. Thanks to you all for helping me figure out the problem.
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Old Aug 24, 2024 | 06:30 AM
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Moved over to C5 Tech.
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