so i was checking for codes and i found these:

B0361 left actuator feedback short to GND HC
B0363 left actuator feedback open H
B0441 left actuator out of range H

i tried resetting them and when i did i would hear vents or something opening and closing. when i would look at the codes again i would keep getting the B0361HC. should i be worried, what does this mean. the only reason i was checking in the first place was because i was curious of why i get such crappy gas mileage. which brings me to my other worry, i get roughly 16.9mpg. so, i had the car running and was looking around the engine bay to see if i heard or saw anything funny and i think i did notice something. by my battery cover their is an a.c line and it looks like their is a cap or something missing. closer to the front of the car their is another one that looks the same with a cap. i think its where you check the pressure or to fill up the freon or whatever. so to sum up. i get sh%t gas mileage, i think i'm missing a part on my a.c line and i can't get rid of B0361. by the way, i have 8k on my car and it's under gmpp. any help would be appreciated.

 

If it is under the GMPP ,I would take it back to them & let them figure it out, while i @ dinner or drank coffee ,or did what ever i needed to do to burn a few hrs,I wouldnt hesitate about calling them & setting up an apptment,if u wouldnt wanna do that, i would wonder why would u have the warranty still in effect ?

 

well for one, i would have to pay $100 per gmpp and the second reason is that i would have to take off my cai. they void warranties when their are cai installed.

 

Disconnect battery and see if B0361 finally clears or pull fuse #18

read this even though it says 1997-2000 I intermittently get these
codes on my 03 and 04.

http://vette.the-reeds.com/actuator/actuator.htm

Also do a search on your codes and re indexing actuators.

regardless of CAI, if your plan has full protection the HVAC should still
be covered. regardless


Your going to hear the doors when you clear codes or turn ignition on

 

Ahh,i see ,the 16mpg is this on the hgway ?Or in the city ?

 

cool!! i'll try to disconnect the battery tomorrow. do i need to do a "rel-earn" afterwards? do you have any idea about the missing ac line cap or cover? any ideas about my mpg?

 

Your Cap Missing Wont Make Codes come up on the DIC ,i would be concerned about the Fuel filter possibly Being clogged up ,Btw is it Driving Normal ,Smell Fuel ?Black smoke coming out the exhaust ?I would Pull the plugs & see if u have any Fouled out,see if they smell like gas

 

the car drives great!! it pulls hard and feels solid. i only have 8k, i hope it's not the plugs. it does feel a little rough but i attributed that to the exhaust and the cai. i don't have any smoke or any smells at all. i read a post here not to long ago about when adding performance mods your mpg will go down until a tune is performed. is that true? i also was reading to check connections for air leaks which also might contribute to loss of mpg. i'm off tomorrow so i will be spending the day trouble shooting. do you suggest i should look at the plugs?

 

It wont hurt, If u have time ,Some people dont like to Pull plugs ,So theres 8k on the plugs ?I would think if u didnt have a Tune it could contribute to the loss of mpg ,What all other mods have u done to the car >>?

 

here it is: blackwing, power duct, smooth coupler, vararam velocity stack, z06 screens with cut out shrouds, cat back magnaflow exhaust.

 

The code you are getting and have in history are HVAC related and have nothing to do with your car mechanically.
Your car should not run rough from a CAI and exhaust, and though some get a tune after such relatively mild mods, it certainly isn't necessary.
With such low mileage, the car obviously sits unused for periods, so installing new plugs couldn't hurt. With a swival plug socket, it's not hard to do.

 

I get the B0361 periodically, just reset it, no big deal. has something to the with HVAC vent indexing or something, I think.

 

I get this code all the time. It don't really mean a whole lot in most cases. Its your drivers side vent not mixing the cold ore hot air correctly for your temperature setting (usually blows either too cold or too hot to what you want). Its the little plastic gears in the actuator that need indexing (usually a chipped tooth). When you clear the code it re-indexes the gears/actuator and thats the noise you hear. Its a pain the the azz to get to and you gotta pull the radio out and crap to get to it. Ive actually never noticed any temperature problem even though I get the code all the time. I just ignore it as it doesn't actually cause the CEL light to come on. I just notice the code when checking others.

The pre 2002 actuators are poor quality and redesigned in 2000 I think.

There is a writeup with pictures on this forum somewhere I saw yesterday on how to adjust it by moving the plastic gears a few notches counterclockwise further than the auto re indexing does.

I wouldn't take my car to the dealer UNLESS I absolutely couldn't fix it myself even under warranty. Most dealership BOZOS will mess the car up worse than before they got as hold of it.

 

thanks everyone for all the great responses. i tried this morning disconnecting and reconnecting the battery to try to clear the code but it didn't work. i'm not going to sweat it. has anyone checked to see if there is suppossed to be a cap on that ac line? i'm off today and i can go get one if need be. i'm sorta of **** when it comes to my baby. i'll be putting the car away soon so maybe i'll change the plugs next spring. wow, i can't beleive i have to change plugs with only 8k's.

 

Change plugs at 8K? Why would you do that? I seriously doubt the plugs need changing.

 

i doubt it too but what else can give me crappy mpg? maybe i'll use that techron stuff or clean my maf. o.k, my to do list for next spring is to clean my blackwing, clean my maf, clean throttle body and add a bottle of techron. these are all cheap easy to do things and it might help out. if not, i'll change plugs and fuel filter.

 

Depends on how you drive the car, as 16 mpg id love to get. If im cruising with my foot never moving ill get 30 on the freeway, but in town forget it. I'm always on it redline shifting and probably get around 12 mpg. in city im very rarely out of 2nd gear and thats always a constant 4k or so just cruising around.

so how are you calculating your mileage?

 

You also mentioned that your car's running "feels rough." That, combined with poor mileage (although I don't think ~17mpg around town qualifies as poor) could mean a fouled plug, like you mentioned, or a loose or bad plug wire.

Again, judging from your low miles, it's apparent your car doesn't get driven for periods of time (unless you use it for a 2 mile work commute!). That is why I suggested changing plugs as it will cost you an hour plus $20.
Gary Whitfield, Senior Fuel Chemist at BP Australia, says that in the right conditions, fuel can last up to 12 months. But once the container is opened, the fuel will start to degrade.

“Once the seal is broken, a vapour space is formed in the container and the fuel will start to deteriorate more rapidly,” he says.

Okay, so what about fuel that’s left in your car’s tank for a long period of time?

Mr Whitfield claims fuel in a car’s tank can last for up to four weeks before it becomes considerably denser. When this happens, the engine is effectively over-fuelled (without any change in injector pulse-width) and there’s an increased chance of carbon deposition onto spark plugs and inside the combustion chamber. This can cause driveability problems such as stutters and misses."

 

you guys are awesome! i calculate my mileage by dividing the mileage i have put on and the gallons it takes me to top up to full, i always set my trip gauge when i fill up. i am a weekend driver at best, i have put on 4,000km in 10 months. when i drive it i'm not afraid to rip it up a bit.