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Old Oct 30, 2007 | 08:24 PM
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Default Post header install question

Looking for some input here.

I was told by a reputable shop that we're supposed to remove the two bolts that attach the headers to the bellhousing after the first heat cycle post installing the headers.

In the few years I've owned the car this is the first time I've heard or read this information.

Can anyone confirm or refute this ?

Thanks
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Old Oct 30, 2007 | 09:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Z06ufgrad2002
Looking for some input here.

I was told by a reputable shop that we're supposed to remove the two bolts that attach the headers to the bellhousing after the first heat cycle post installing the headers.

In the few years I've owned the car this is the first time I've heard or read this information.

Can anyone confirm or refute this ?

Thanks
I got LPE headers and mine are still bolted up the the bell housing.

I never heard of that.
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Old Oct 30, 2007 | 09:54 PM
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Mine are still attached. 2 years later and a couple of removals. All works fine.
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Old Oct 31, 2007 | 03:42 AM
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Originally Posted by ajg1915
I got LPE headers and mine are still bolted up the the bell housing.

I never heard of that.
Same here.
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Old Oct 31, 2007 | 09:03 AM
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First I've heard of this too. About 2 years on my Kooks and still bolted to bellhousing brace. No problems at all.
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Old Oct 31, 2007 | 05:40 PM
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Almost 2 years here also. Bolts are still there.
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Old Oct 31, 2007 | 05:49 PM
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Ok, that's what I thought too. I think this tuner is feeding me a line of because they don't want to replace mine.

I've had multiple cracks in the brackets that hold the header to the bellhousing and I've had them welded up to this point. Now they've cracked again and I just can't see rewelding these things every 6 months to keep them together. I've contacted the vendor and they state I can remove them and send them back to be "FIXED". But, the shipping makes that cost prohibitive since I can get them "Fixed"locally for relatively cheap and without having to remove them from the car.

I guess I need to call the vendor back and explore some other options. Say, sending me a new set since these are obviously defective since they keep cracking.

Last edited by Z06ufgrad2002; Nov 1, 2007 at 07:20 AM.
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Old Oct 31, 2007 | 06:05 PM
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The mount on the header sometimes cracks due to stress mine was welded 2x. I then removed the mounts completly from the header and had a shop weld it up.
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Old Oct 31, 2007 | 06:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Z06ufgrad2002
Ok, that's what I thought too. I think this tuner is feeding me a line of because they don't want to replace mine.

I've had multiple cracks in the brackets that hold the header to the bellhousing and I've had them welded up to this point. Now they've cracked again and I just can't see rewelding these things every 6 months to keep them together. I've contacted the vendor and they state I can remove them and send them back to be "FIXED". But, the shipping makes that cost prohibitive since I can get them "ixed"locally for relatively cheap and without having to remove them from the car.

I guess I need to call the vendor back and explore some other options. Say, sending me a new set since these are obviously defective since they keep cracking.
Please post brand of headers so that the rest of us will know, thanks.
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Old Nov 1, 2007 | 06:38 PM
  #10  
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I'll send you a pm
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Old Nov 1, 2007 | 08:01 PM
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Default I will bet they aint AR's

Just finished my install and even the dip stick tube snakes its way down between the tubes then slips in the pan and the little bolt on the bracket screws right in!!!!!!! How do Ya engineer a thing like that?

"My father always said buy the best you won't be disapointed" KC Out of Africa
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Old Nov 1, 2007 | 09:28 PM
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I cut those tabs off my headers, after the first one pulled out of the tube, and left a nice, noisy 1" wide hole in it.

I welded it back in, and then cut both mounting tabs off.


Its a redundant attachment point, and does see some torque load, when the rear section of the exhaust flexes, and the front part is rigidly bolted to the heads...this is the point in between that takes the abuse. Since the header tubing is so thin, it usually gives way right around the weld bead. It's not uncommon. The AIR tube flanges are known to also do the same over time.


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Old Nov 1, 2007 | 11:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Z06ufgrad2002
I'll send you a pm
Thanks Ted,

I sent you one back.

Tony
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Old Nov 1, 2007 | 11:58 PM
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Mine broke on the drivers side. No big deal except for the hole it left !!
Maybe your installer found that it had not lined up perfect and it had to be pulled in to be bolted through.
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Old Nov 2, 2007 | 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by 123sugey
Mine broke on the drivers side. No big deal except for the hole it left !!
Maybe your installer found that it had not lined up perfect and it had to be pulled in to be bolted through.
I don't think that was the case because I can see where the installer had actually elongated the hole a bit to get the bolt through. And also according to the manufacturer, pulling them together is normal, and there should be no strain on the bolt after the first heat cycle since the metal has conformed to the new location.
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