Identifying spark plug
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 468
Likes: 15
From: Jupiter FL
Identifying spark plug
I pulled a spark plug it is a 41 952 gaped at .077. I have been reading on this forum that the new Iridium plug is 41 985. Does anyone know if the 952 is platinum or copper or iridium?
Also it seems pulling the plugs is a PITA. I am doing the passenger side (easy side), but when I get to the other side will I have to remove the alternator and or the brake booster to get to the odd number plugs?
Also it seems pulling the plugs is a PITA. I am doing the passenger side (easy side), but when I get to the other side will I have to remove the alternator and or the brake booster to get to the odd number plugs?
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,398
Likes: 1
From: Kingsport TN
I'm not sure about the plug types you had asked about, but as far as removing the plugs I've been through it and it is a challenge the first time around. Good news is you won't have to take out the alternator or brake booster, but you will find on certain tough plugs it is best to use a combo of a swivel adaptor with an extension to get the fit just right. I actually fit the socket on first by hand, then added the swivel followed by the extension to the wrench. You'll have to feel it out for each one but it does work though you must be patient.
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,848
Likes: 1
From: Central Florida
I didn't have to remove anything to change all 8 in z.. you can unbolt the two 10 mil screws from the air tubes (if you want to make it easier, but not necessary) and easily get to number 7. Number 1 should be easily accessible if you stick your hand under the alternator.
Sorry I couldn't answer your first question.
Sorry I couldn't answer your first question.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
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From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Not sure on the 952. If it was OEM, probably Platinum I would suspect.
Do yourself and your hands a favor. Remove the driver's side coil pack (as an assembly). Makes for lot's more room.
Five bracket-to-valve cover bolts and the main electrical harness plug and it comes off easily. Plus it also gets the plug wires out of the way too. I just leave them attached on the coil ends.
HTH
Do yourself and your hands a favor. Remove the driver's side coil pack (as an assembly). Makes for lot's more room.
Five bracket-to-valve cover bolts and the main electrical harness plug and it comes off easily. Plus it also gets the plug wires out of the way too. I just leave them attached on the coil ends.
HTH
Racer
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 485
Likes: 0
From: Moline Illinois
Swivel socket or a 4 inch extension with a swiveling and racheting breaker bar (snap-on)... works every time!!
After doing it 4 times in one day to get the right N2O to fuel mixture-- you figure it out quick!!
Chris
After doing it 4 times in one day to get the right N2O to fuel mixture-- you figure it out quick!!
Chris
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 18,401
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From: Retired but working
Cruise-In VI Veteran
[QUOTE=LoneStarFRC;1562917368]Not sure on the 952. If it was OEM, probably Platinum I would suspect.
952 is OEM Platinum
Iridium (can't recall the # right now) is the replacement. I had fits trying to find the 952 so I got the Iridium. Same length. Mine runs great after change.
952 is OEM Platinum
Iridium (can't recall the # right now) is the replacement. I had fits trying to find the 952 so I got the Iridium. Same length. Mine runs great after change.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 468
Likes: 15
From: Jupiter FL
Thanks for the info on the plugs. I have the tools mentioned.
My real problem has been removing the plug wires (boots on plug). They are on tight. The dialectic grease dried out and 'welded" the boot to the plug. I am thinking of using some harsh methods to remove boot. The metal sleeve looks like I could get a pliers or maybe a vice grip hold and pull. If I don't ruin the wire/boot I was thinking of drilling a hole near the end (outside) end of the sleeve. That way in the future I can hook something into the hole and pull.
My real problem has been removing the plug wires (boots on plug). They are on tight. The dialectic grease dried out and 'welded" the boot to the plug. I am thinking of using some harsh methods to remove boot. The metal sleeve looks like I could get a pliers or maybe a vice grip hold and pull. If I don't ruin the wire/boot I was thinking of drilling a hole near the end (outside) end of the sleeve. That way in the future I can hook something into the hole and pull.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 2,332
Likes: 31
From: Silver Spring MD
5/8 swivel plug socket for #7
Got this for less than $5 at Autozone. All others used a straight 5/8 plug socket and a variety of extensions. Use a piece of vacuum hose after you loosen the plugs. Then you will "feel" where they go. Most important when INSERTING the new plugs so you don't cross thread them. I didn't remove ANYTHING but tied back the air lines when going for #7. Have FUN 
BIGHANK
BIGHANK
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 468
Likes: 15
From: Jupiter FL
Ok, I got them all out and only recked one plug boot. So it looks like a new set of wires.
In the past I have us anti-size compound on my plugs when putting them into Aluminum heads. Does this forum recommend that? and I plan on using liberal amounts of dialectic grease on the shaft of the plug for easy removal the next go around.
I decided on Auto-lite platinum's so if I keep the car a few years or add a huffer I will be changing plugs again, and the grease should help.
Thanks for all the good replies.
Jay B
In the past I have us anti-size compound on my plugs when putting them into Aluminum heads. Does this forum recommend that? and I plan on using liberal amounts of dialectic grease on the shaft of the plug for easy removal the next go around.
I decided on Auto-lite platinum's so if I keep the car a few years or add a huffer I will be changing plugs again, and the grease should help.
Thanks for all the good replies.
Jay B
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 10,554
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From: Not on either liberal coast.
Anti seize and dialectic grease is recommended...the GMPP red wires are also highly recommended for quality and price unless you intend to try and find just one replacement wire. You can try Gene at GMPARTSHOUSE for the wires should you elect to buy new. These are the same wires that come on the Z06 cars.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 468
Likes: 15
From: Jupiter FL
I called around for plug wires. Found stock OEM type for 40.00. Then called a speed shop who offered me MSD wires for 62.00. Then called a Chev dealer who quoted 63.00 for the High Performance (red ) wires.
He did not stock they but said he would order them an have then by
9:00am tomorrow. So that's the way I went.
He did not stock they but said he would order them an have then by
9:00am tomorrow. So that's the way I went.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 468
Likes: 15
From: Jupiter FL
I re-checked they are .067 not.077. Still off spec.
The plugs I bought Auto-lite Platinum plugs and they list a gap of .060.
The shop manual calls for 41-952 which we determined to be the AC Platinum plug gaped at .060.
So I will gap at .060
The plugs I bought Auto-lite Platinum plugs and they list a gap of .060.
The shop manual calls for 41-952 which we determined to be the AC Platinum plug gaped at .060.
So I will gap at .060
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 2,332
Likes: 31
From: Silver Spring MD
GM doesn't recommend anti sieze for torque reasons
Anti seize and dialectic grease is recommended...the GMPP red wires are also highly recommended for quality and price unless you intend to try and find just one replacement wire. You can try Gene at GMPARTSHOUSE for the wires should you elect to buy new. These are the same wires that come on the Z06 cars.
I never used a torque wrench on plugs im my life and haven't had a loose one or broken one YET. I use the feel when its tight method and do the same for all plugs. Don't see how you can get a torque wrench on some of the plugs anyway. I used GM Iridiums gapped at .040 and the Red Performance Z06 wires (less than half the price of the black ones) You can use the 5/8 swivel socket for £7 under the brake booster. Don't know why this editor uses an enghlish pound sign as I tried typing a number sign in the last sentence. Anyway CHEERIO and
HEAR HEAR.
BIGHANK
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2007
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From: Official Dirty Dozen Member
GM says DON'T USE antisieze as you will torque the plugs too tight.
I never used a torque wrench on plugs im my life and haven't had a loose one or broken one YET. I use the feel when its tight method and do the same for all plugs. Don't see how you can get a torque wrench on some of the plugs anyway. I used GM Iridiums gapped at .040 and the Red Performance Z06 wires (less than half the price of the black ones) You can use the 5/8 swivel socket for £7 under the brake booster. Don't know why this editor uses an enghlish pound sign as I tried typing a number sign in the last sentence. Anyway CHEERIO and
HEAR HEAR. BIGHANK
I never used a torque wrench on plugs im my life and haven't had a loose one or broken one YET. I use the feel when its tight method and do the same for all plugs. Don't see how you can get a torque wrench on some of the plugs anyway. I used GM Iridiums gapped at .040 and the Red Performance Z06 wires (less than half the price of the black ones) You can use the 5/8 swivel socket for £7 under the brake booster. Don't know why this editor uses an enghlish pound sign as I tried typing a number sign in the last sentence. Anyway CHEERIO and
HEAR HEAR.
BIGHANK
Cruising
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
Just changed my plugs last week to iridium and MSD 8.5s. I cant feel a difference in anything other than just knowing I have fresh spark plugs and wires =) Kinda like washing a car, it always seems to drive better for some reason. 
I bent 1 swivel joint on #7 getting it off but had an extra to finish the job. I pulled the stock heat shields off with pliers with very minimal damage, and just rebent were I grabbed with the tool back into shape then reused them. The MSD boots onto the spark plug is longer than the stock wires, so there is about 1" of rubber that is not covered by the heat shield. I dont know if there going to hold up or if I need to get fiberglass socks. No headers yet, so I think it will be ok for now. Has anyone had problems running stock heat shields on MSD 8.5s?
I bent 1 swivel joint on #7 getting it off but had an extra to finish the job. I pulled the stock heat shields off with pliers with very minimal damage, and just rebent were I grabbed with the tool back into shape then reused them. The MSD boots onto the spark plug is longer than the stock wires, so there is about 1" of rubber that is not covered by the heat shield. I dont know if there going to hold up or if I need to get fiberglass socks. No headers yet, so I think it will be ok for now. Has anyone had problems running stock heat shields on MSD 8.5s?
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2007
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From: Official Dirty Dozen Member
Just changed my plugs last week to iridium and MSD 8.5s. I cant feel a difference in anything other than just knowing I have fresh spark plugs and wires =) Kinda like washing a car, it always seems to drive better for some reason. I bent 1 swivel joint on #7 getting it off but had an extra to finish the job. I pulled the stock heat shields off with pliers with very minimal damage, and just rebent were I grabbed with the tool back into shape then reused them. The MSD boots onto the spark plug is longer than the stock wires, so there is about 1" of rubber that is not covered by the heat shield. I dont know if there going to hold up or if I need to get fiberglass socks. No headers yet, so I think it will be ok for now. Has anyone had problems running stock heat shields on MSD 8.5s?
I bent 1 swivel joint on #7 getting it off but had an extra to finish the job. I pulled the stock heat shields off with pliers with very minimal damage, and just rebent were I grabbed with the tool back into shape then reused them. The MSD boots onto the spark plug is longer than the stock wires, so there is about 1" of rubber that is not covered by the heat shield. I dont know if there going to hold up or if I need to get fiberglass socks. No headers yet, so I think it will be ok for now. Has anyone had problems running stock heat shields on MSD 8.5s?I use an impact sparkplug swivel with another impact swivel, yes 2 swivels. This works best for me.
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Retired but working
Cruise-In VI Veteran
I borrowed a MAC tool from a buddy its a plug socket with a double swivel. Worked great.
I got the boots off using a small watter pump plier. Grasped the end of the boot, twiste and pulled. Came off with a pop.
I got the boots off using a small watter pump plier. Grasped the end of the boot, twiste and pulled. Came off with a pop.