When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
another question...did you notice the pedal act funny when you first depressed it? This one kind of "pops up" I am assuming that this is part of the switch being bad..
Robert, I take it you don't have a master code list?
I've got one. I'll bring you a copy next week for future use...for like MAF sensor failures, etc...
Oh I have the code list but there are a few different switches etc which cause the brake lights to be out...it appears that this switch is the one that causes BOTH brake lights to not work as opposed to only 1 side being out
Oh I have the code list but there are a few different switches etc which cause the brake lights to be out...it appears that this switch is the one that causes BOTH brake lights to not work as opposed to only 1 side being out
I see. The full definition of that code is...C1291 Open Brake Lamp Sw Contacts During Deccel.
Is the switch exposed near the rear with the plug-in play of the euros?
I'm just wondering aloud...remember I'm no mechanic.
First thing to do is the following:
Check the fuse. Then
Stop Lamp Switch Adjustment
1. With the brake pedal depressed, insert the stoplamp/cruise control switch into the retainer until the switch body seats in the retainer.
2. Note that CLICKS can be heard as the threaded portion of the switch is pushed through the retainer.
3. Slowly pull the brake pedal fully rearward against the stop until the CLICK sound can no longer be heard. The switch will be moved in the retainer providing proper adjustment.
After making sure the switch is adjusted properly and still not working properly start getting into the harder things to do. If you don't have it here is the schematic.