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E.E. Oil Catch can question

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Old Nov 29, 2007 | 06:44 PM
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Default E.E. Oil Catch can question

To those who have this brand your experiences on removing and the more difficult task of re-installing.
Do you guys find the hoses directly below the can are just perfectly in the way to make it a PITA to get it threaded back on?
Maybe if the can was say a 1/4" to 1/2" shorter it would be a easier to get your hand between the bottom of the can and the top of the hose and room to 'spin' the can back on.
So today i emptied my 3/4 full can and resorted to removing the 2torx bolts for the bracket so i could re-install the can, that was easier than spending almost 5 minutes of fustration trying to get the can 'lined up' with the threads but to no avail.
I have also tried moving the bottom hose but there is very little play in that short hose (there are two of them). any tips TIA Rob.

Last edited by Rob 99; Nov 29, 2007 at 06:48 PM.
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Old Nov 29, 2007 | 07:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Rob 99
To those who have this brand your experiences on removing and the more difficult task of re-installing.
Do you guys find the hoses directly below the can are just perfectly in the way to make it a PITA to get it threaded back on?
Maybe if the can was say a 1/4" to 1/2" shorter it would be a easier to get your hand between the bottom of the can and the top of the hose and room to 'spin' the can back on.
I believe EE made a slight change to the length of the bottom can a while back, and made the bracket slots longer too ... but even if the catch can touches the heater hoses all you need to do is push the hose(s) down slightly to get the bottom can off. I've done it a few times that way and it's really not hard to do. No reason to undo the bracket screws. Make sure the bracket is pulled up all the way to maximize the clearance on the bottom of the catch can.
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Old Nov 29, 2007 | 07:37 PM
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Instead of using the supplied buttonhead allens, I elected to use studs into the heads. I have 3/4" spacers between the bracket and the heads.
When I want to drain the can, it's much easier to access the stainless nuts and just pull the can away from the studs, drain and re-install. Be careful you don't cross thread those fine threads on the can.
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Old Nov 29, 2007 | 08:24 PM
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Rob 99
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Originally Posted by ZeeOSix
I believe EE made a slight change to the length of the bottom can a while back, and made the bracket slots longer too ... but even if the catch can touches the heater hoses all you need to do is push the hose(s) down slightly to get the bottom can off. I've done it a few times that way and it's really not hard to do. No reason to undo the bracket screws. Make sure the bracket is pulled up all the way to maximize the clearance on the bottom of the catch can.
I think iv had this can for slightly over a year it was a GP here on the forum so im not sure if i have the shorter one, the slots seem to be pretty long and they are adjusted 'up' for max clearance, getting it unscrewd is really not a prob, just screwing back on, getting it balanced to start the threads. thanks.



Originally Posted by hotwheels57
Instead of using the supplied buttonhead allens, I elected to use studs into the heads. I have 3/4" spacers between the bracket and the heads.
When I want to drain the can, it's much easier to access the stainless nuts and just pull the can away from the studs, drain and re-install. Be careful you don't cross thread those fine threads on the can.
Thanks for the idea, before i change to studs im going to try to hold the can with both hands (next time) in the center and spin it on using that method this way there is no clearance issue for my hand, and hoses at the bottom. And cross threading is what led me to just unbolt the bracket or fear of ruining it. thanks.
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