Help! Used engine brite and now 1/2 the engine doesn't run
12-09-2007, 04:06 PM
#1
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Help! Used engine brite and now 1/2 the engine doesn't run
...this just gets better and better 
I prepared to change the spark plugs on my car today and replace the P1416 check valve which is throwing my CEL. That check valve I've had to change once before so I'm familiar with the process. Its part of the AIR system and buried behind the intake manifold 
The first thing I do is use some engine brite in order to clean the intake manifold area, which will minimize any chance of getting crap into the intake ports when I move the intake manifold to access the check valve. I'm very careful using gentle pressure, keeping the water out of the alternator, electronics and battery area.
Unfortunately, now my engine runs like crap and throws the P0300 misfire code. The motor is sputtering etc. I think the entire left side of the engine is not runing because I used a infrared temp meter and the left exhaust manifold (no headers) was only at 120 degrees and the passenger side was 290 degrees after a few minutes of running. Further, if I unplug the entire harness feeding the 4 coil packs on the left side there is no difference in the way the engine runs.
If I pull those spark plug wires, no difference is made and no sparks go flying like they do on the passenger side. I'm thinking the problem is in the ignition system but before the coil packs.
I'm hoping I'll just let the car sit for a while and maybe some water got into somewhere it shouldn't have and it'll dry out and run fine...but with my luck I doubt it. The car was running great last night.
What the heck is going on? Help!
I prepared to change the spark plugs on my car today and replace the P1416 check valve which is throwing my CEL. That check valve I've had to change once before so I'm familiar with the process. Its part of the AIR system and buried behind the intake manifold The first thing I do is use some engine brite in order to clean the intake manifold area, which will minimize any chance of getting crap into the intake ports when I move the intake manifold to access the check valve. I'm very careful using gentle pressure, keeping the water out of the alternator, electronics and battery area.
Unfortunately, now my engine runs like crap and throws the P0300 misfire code. The motor is sputtering etc. I think the entire left side of the engine is not runing because I used a infrared temp meter and the left exhaust manifold (no headers) was only at 120 degrees and the passenger side was 290 degrees after a few minutes of running. Further, if I unplug the entire harness feeding the 4 coil packs on the left side there is no difference in the way the engine runs.
If I pull those spark plug wires, no difference is made and no sparks go flying like they do on the passenger side. I'm thinking the problem is in the ignition system but before the coil packs.I'm hoping I'll just let the car sit for a while and maybe some water got into somewhere it shouldn't have and it'll dry out and run fine...but with my luck I doubt it. The car was running great last night.
What the heck is going on? Help!
12-09-2007, 06:13 PM
#2
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well.....
...this just gets better and better I prepared to change the spark plugs on my car today and replace the P1416 check valve which is throwing my CEL. That check valve I've had to change once before so I'm familiar with the process. Its part of the AIR system and buried behind the intake manifold
The first thing I do is use some engine brite in order to clean the intake manifold area, which will minimize any chance of getting crap into the intake ports when I move the intake manifold to access the check valve. I'm very careful using gentle pressure, keeping the water out of the alternator, electronics and battery area.
Unfortunately, now my engine runs like crap and throws the P0300 misfire code. The motor is sputtering etc. I think the entire left side of the engine is not runing because I used a infrared temp meter and the left exhaust manifold (no headers) was only at 120 degrees and the passenger side was 290 degrees after a few minutes of running. Further, if I unplug the entire harness feeding the 4 coil packs on the left side there is no difference in the way the engine runs. If I pull those spark plug wires, no difference is made and no sparks go flying like they do on the passenger side. I'm thinking the problem is in the ignition system but before the coil packs.
I'm hoping I'll just let the car sit for a while and maybe some water got into somewhere it shouldn't have and it'll dry out and run fine...but with my luck I doubt it. The car was running great last night.
What the heck is going on? Help!
I prepared to change the spark plugs on my car today and replace the P1416 check valve which is throwing my CEL. That check valve I've had to change once before so I'm familiar with the process. Its part of the AIR system and buried behind the intake manifold The first thing I do is use some engine brite in order to clean the intake manifold area, which will minimize any chance of getting crap into the intake ports when I move the intake manifold to access the check valve. I'm very careful using gentle pressure, keeping the water out of the alternator, electronics and battery area.
Unfortunately, now my engine runs like crap and throws the P0300 misfire code. The motor is sputtering etc. I think the entire left side of the engine is not runing because I used a infrared temp meter and the left exhaust manifold (no headers) was only at 120 degrees and the passenger side was 290 degrees after a few minutes of running. Further, if I unplug the entire harness feeding the 4 coil packs on the left side there is no difference in the way the engine runs.
If I pull those spark plug wires, no difference is made and no sparks go flying like they do on the passenger side. I'm thinking the problem is in the ignition system but before the coil packs.I'm hoping I'll just let the car sit for a while and maybe some water got into somewhere it shouldn't have and it'll dry out and run fine...but with my luck I doubt it. The car was running great last night.
What the heck is going on? Help!
Because your fouling from the pass side I would focus there....just go about it systematically....take your time...Your trying to get each one of those packs to fire again.....my guess is you got the ignition module that feeds the packs (whatever it is called) wet.
iam sure more knowledgeable guys will chime in.
12-09-2007, 06:15 PM
#3
Le Mans Master
check valve
...this just gets better and better I prepared to change the spark plugs on my car today and replace the P1416 check valve which is throwing my CEL. That check valve I've had to change once before so I'm familiar with the process. Its part of the AIR system and buried behind the intake manifold
The first thing I do is use some engine brite in order to clean the intake manifold area, which will minimize any chance of getting crap into the intake ports when I move the intake manifold to access the check valve. I'm very careful using gentle pressure, keeping the water out of the alternator, electronics and battery area.
Unfortunately, now my engine runs like crap and throws the P0300 misfire code. The motor is sputtering etc. I think the entire left side of the engine is not runing because I used a infrared temp meter and the left exhaust manifold (no headers) was only at 120 degrees and the passenger side was 290 degrees after a few minutes of running. Further, if I unplug the entire harness feeding the 4 coil packs on the left side there is no difference in the way the engine runs. If I pull those spark plug wires, no difference is made and no sparks go flying like they do on the passenger side. I'm thinking the problem is in the ignition system but before the coil packs.
I'm hoping I'll just let the car sit for a while and maybe some water got into somewhere it shouldn't have and it'll dry out and run fine...but with my luck I doubt it. The car was running great last night.
What the heck is going on? Help!
I prepared to change the spark plugs on my car today and replace the P1416 check valve which is throwing my CEL. That check valve I've had to change once before so I'm familiar with the process. Its part of the AIR system and buried behind the intake manifold The first thing I do is use some engine brite in order to clean the intake manifold area, which will minimize any chance of getting crap into the intake ports when I move the intake manifold to access the check valve. I'm very careful using gentle pressure, keeping the water out of the alternator, electronics and battery area.
Unfortunately, now my engine runs like crap and throws the P0300 misfire code. The motor is sputtering etc. I think the entire left side of the engine is not runing because I used a infrared temp meter and the left exhaust manifold (no headers) was only at 120 degrees and the passenger side was 290 degrees after a few minutes of running. Further, if I unplug the entire harness feeding the 4 coil packs on the left side there is no difference in the way the engine runs.
If I pull those spark plug wires, no difference is made and no sparks go flying like they do on the passenger side. I'm thinking the problem is in the ignition system but before the coil packs.I'm hoping I'll just let the car sit for a while and maybe some water got into somewhere it shouldn't have and it'll dry out and run fine...but with my luck I doubt it. The car was running great last night.
What the heck is going on? Help!
Check Valve.......I had that code appear for me also. What I did was to disconnect the hose from the backside of the left hand side check valve and inserted a smaller hose as far into the larger one as I could. Then I sprayed a penetrating oil into the smaller hose, used my air compressor to force the penetrating oil up toward the check valve. Drove around for a day or two and the check engine light went out. Other members have used throttle body cleaner with positive results. Now I do this proceedure twice a year as preventive maintenance,
12-09-2007, 06:16 PM
#4
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Check to see if the two grounds on the rear of the driver's side head are tight and make sure the ground splice packs are in god shape...the ones on both sides of the engine compartment next to the hood risers.
12-09-2007, 07:06 PM
#5
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just think of it this way at least you know what the problem is, I would say get in there and either dry it all out or use a leaf blower very carefully. I would stay away from compressed air, too powerful. Bottom line is you got something wet....got to get it dry and then check and double check all your wires. I would unplug your wires from each coil pack and blow them all out and then re double click them back on...yes I said DOUBLE click them as it will take two clicks.
Because your fouling from the pass side I would focus there....just go about it systematically....take your time...Your trying to get each one of those packs to fire again.....my guess is you got the ignition module that feeds the packs (whatever it is called) wet.
iam sure more knowledgeable guys will chime in.
Because your fouling from the pass side I would focus there....just go about it systematically....take your time...Your trying to get each one of those packs to fire again.....my guess is you got the ignition module that feeds the packs (whatever it is called) wet.
iam sure more knowledgeable guys will chime in.
Sounds like the plug wires are on their way out.
Check Valve.......I had that code appear for me also. What I did was to disconnect the hose from the backside of the left hand side check valve and inserted a smaller hose as far into the larger one as I could. Then I sprayed a penetrating oil into the smaller hose, used my air compressor to force the penetrating oil up toward the check valve. Drove around for a day or two and the check engine light went out. Other members have used throttle body cleaner with positive results. Now I do this proceedure twice a year as preventive maintenance,
Check Valve.......I had that code appear for me also. What I did was to disconnect the hose from the backside of the left hand side check valve and inserted a smaller hose as far into the larger one as I could. Then I sprayed a penetrating oil into the smaller hose, used my air compressor to force the penetrating oil up toward the check valve. Drove around for a day or two and the check engine light went out. Other members have used throttle body cleaner with positive results. Now I do this proceedure twice a year as preventive maintenance,
Yeah I've done the penetrating oil trick before with good results but unfortunately this time it did not cure the problem
I think because of the location of the rear check valve, it does not get a chance to heat up like the one next to the passenger side headers to get rid of the moisture and eventually seizes.
12-09-2007, 09:30 PM
#6
Team Owner
There is no "ignition module". Each ignition coil is triggered directly by the PCM. Check the main coil pack connector on the pass side for moisture/water. Also, check each connector on each coil while your at it.
12-09-2007, 10:15 PM
#7
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Ugh... just changed the plugs and the plug wires on that side, no effect. I haven't tried swapping the coil packs yet but I have a feeling it will have the same effect. I can't imagine 4 coil packs dying at once, so there's gotta be an issue before that.
12-09-2007, 10:37 PM
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That's what I thought... I've checked all those connections they look fine, no moisture. I'm sick of pecking with it tonight, I'll leave the car overnight and hope something dries and cures itself tomorow. I suppose anohter possibility is the ECM itself...
12-11-2007, 12:19 AM
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I didn't really have time to work on the car today, but I tried it again. No luck. Same condition.I'll swap the coil packs from the left side to the right side one at a time tomorow. I'm almost hoping it follows, at least then I'll know what's wrong. But 4 coil packs on the same side failing at once?
I thought about the PCM being messed up but if so I'd imagine ALOT more codes would be on then just P0300. Ugh.... car trouble....
12-11-2007, 01:44 PM
#11
Safety Car
If I remember correctly, there is only one ground that goes to the coil pack connector. Since all 4 aren't firing, I would say it has to do with something like this which is in common to all 4.
1) I would do what you already suggested and swap the coil packs side to side to see if it travels.
2) If not, I would verify continuity between the block and the ground connector at the harness side of the coil pack connector. If you don't have a meter, you can fasten a ground wire to the coil pack ground and the block temporarily.
---
I would suggest starting there.
I'm at work and don't have the manual in front of me to look up which pin is ground... I can do it later when I get home from work.
1) I would do what you already suggested and swap the coil packs side to side to see if it travels.
2) If not, I would verify continuity between the block and the ground connector at the harness side of the coil pack connector. If you don't have a meter, you can fasten a ground wire to the coil pack ground and the block temporarily.
---
I would suggest starting there.
I'm at work and don't have the manual in front of me to look up which pin is ground... I can do it later when I get home from work.
12-11-2007, 06:03 PM
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Ahhh, good thinking... looks like there's a TSB on the corrosion of the rear knock sensor as well and it may throw P0332. Since I gotta pull the intake manfold anyway to do the P1416 check valve, might as well change it. Hopefully this is the cure.. (crosses fingers). And hopefully one of the local dealers has it in stock.
12-11-2007, 07:22 PM
#14
Le Mans Master
I read the same thread. I think this IS the culprit.
12-14-2007, 09:40 PM
#15
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The knock sensors were indeed wet. The front one was in water. I replaced BOTH sensors, reassembled my car.... and then...... THE SAME CONDITION Ugh! I've changed- spark plugs, spark plug wires, both knock sensors. Its not getting spark. I'm thru screwing with it tonite, I'm gonna go take the honda to the bar and have a few shots
Sheesh. I'll try to pin this down tomorow when I have some more patience. Any other suggestions?
12-14-2007, 10:34 PM
#17
Safety Car
The knock sensors were indeed wet. The front one was in water. I replaced BOTH sensors, reassembled my car.... and then...... THE SAME CONDITION Ugh! I've changed- spark plugs, spark plug wires, both knock sensors. Its not getting spark. I'm thru screwing with it tonite, I'm gonna go take the honda to the bar and have a few shots
Sheesh. I'll try to pin this down tomorow when I have some more patience. Any other suggestions?---
Here is something interesting I found while looking at my schematics.
INJR1 minifuse 22 provides voltage to both the injectors and the coils for cylinders 1,3,5,7. Check that fuse to see if it's good.
12-15-2007, 02:08 AM
#18
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that was it!!!!! I pulled the fuse. it was blown! I didn't have a spare 15 amp so I pulled it off the approach lights. Sure enough, it started right up! 
Since you correctly diagnosed my problem I can't tell you how excited I am. That seriously made my night. PM me your email address and I'll paypal you $20. Oh wow, I feel great!
12-15-2007, 07:56 AM
#19
Le Mans Master
that was it!!!!! I pulled the fuse. it was blown! I didn't have a spare 15 amp so I pulled it off the approach lights. Sure enough, it started right up! Since you correctly diagnosed my problem I can't tell you how excited I am. That seriously made my night. PM me your email address and I'll paypal you $20. Oh wow, I feel great!
