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I have a volt-o-meter deal so how do I hook this up to the battery to see how much the drain is, and do I just go fuse by fuse till I see the drain stop?
This is of course after I check the starter. Man I am frustrated.
Bill Curlee has explained how to connect the Volt-Ohm-Ammeter to determine the current drain (AMPS) from your battery. Normal drain is about 25 Ma. If you have more than that amount, start pulling fuses one at a time until you find the circuit that is the cause. Then chase down the devices in that circuit to find the culprit.
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Originally Posted by Joe0121
Are the fuses marked? so I know what fuse I am pulling?
Yes.
BTW, do NOT under any circumstances attempt to start the car with the meter hooked up in the test configuration. The current draw will either pop the fuse in the meter (if your lucky and it has one) or destroy the meter altogether!
Carefully follow Bills' tips on this and you should be fine.
AIR they are marked with a number inside the cover of the fuse boxes. I think you have to refer to the owners manual or the shop manual to know what devices are on the downstream side of the fuse.
Chuck S.
What size are the fuses anyways? I get little arks when I attempt to reconnect the negative battery terminal so there is def something trying to pull the power. My Owners Manual is MIA though as it was stolen when my car was broken into. So standby for a Sunday morning thread "what the heck does fuse XX go to??"
Under downloads pick Corvette then select your year.
Once you have it on your PC find the pages with the fuse info and print them. ( Mine was section 5 starting on page 93.) It will list each fuse number and what is for. Also shows a diagram of the fuse box and where the fuse is located. Size of each fuse varies depending upon circuit. Size is on the fuse box covers with the fuse number. Sort of need to corolate the info from the two places.
Remember that there are two fuse boxes. One in the passenger foot well and the second under the hood in front of the battery. Lots of fuses to pull. When I went through this process on my C4 this past summer I removed each fuse then checked to see if current flow changed, then pulled the next fuse etc. Once I had all fuses out, I started putting them back in place. Keep track of which size fuse goes where so you get them back in the proper place. It may well be more than one circuit that has a problem. It was in my case anyway.
Good luck.
Chuck S.
I went to the fuse area of wally world (I work there) and I saw 5 amp fuses in a few different sizes and they were marked with a three letter code starting with an M. I want to pick up a few so if I find any bad ones I can replace em.
Current draw looks to be at about 3.40 then after about 15 minutes drops down to about 1.58 starting to pull some fuses now i think i will start with the fuse box on the passenger side of the car under the glove box.
I'll bet the high draw (3.40 ) for the first 15 minutes is because you had the car door open and the interior lights were on. After 15 minutes, they get automatically turned off to help save the battery.
Even the 1.58 is way to high It would drain the battery in a day or so. Did you have the hood open and the hood light was on perhaps??? I have the cable to my hood light disconnected because I'm always under the hood for one reason or another. Connector is near the hinge point on the passenger side. Easy to disconnect.
Chuck S.
I beleive it is already disconnected but I can double check. There is no light in it anyways.
I havnt got a clue here, the drain goes from 3.4, to 1.6, down to .25 over time. Twice before both times when the car was getting work done has the battery been killed which lends it self to a power drain, but the drain doesnt stay consistant long enough for me to track it and it getting lower and finally down to the nrmal .25. I have no idea I am so frustrated and so pissed I just want my car to work.
The "big gray ones" are circuit breakers. Pull straight up on them.
There are two large (10 ga) red wires that are attached to a post just to the outside of the underhood fuse panel. One wire comes from the positive battery cable and the other feeds the interior fuse panel. Remove the nut and pull the wire that is not attached to the battery cable.
Replace the wire from the positive cable and tighten the nut. Then check current drain. If there is a big change, the problem lies with circuits that go thru the interior fuse panel.
I ran out of daylight and had no luck pulling fuses, next day I have off I will try to isolate one fuse box at a time, and see if I have more luck like that.
Tried to pull up on the grey boxes but they wouldnt move and I dont really have the nerve to pull much harder. I'm tired and I am going to relax with what little weekend I have left.
Oh did the Diagnostic and cleared then re did it and got these codes
Pcm P1638 C
PCM P1637 H (I cleared the codes and this came back as a history?)
I'd test the drain for a few engine cycles to see if it is consistent. That short of a "drain" shouldn't blow the battery. How old is your battery and have you tested it?
I'd test the drain for a few engine cycles to see if it is consistent. That short of a "drain" shouldn't blow the battery. How old is your battery and have you tested it?
It's brand new. Would a bad Alternator cause a battery drain?
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