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Did a search but did not find info I was looking for.
I have a 99 FRC that will be street-driven only. No racing of any sort.
I am doing a heads/cam over winter.
Want to replace the harmonic balancer/pulley. No supercharger in my future.
Questions:
Should I stick with stock size pulley or get underdrive pulley, and if so, what size? I am concerned that if I get too much under drive my a/c, cooling, and electrics won't work properly.
Should I pin the crank? New cam will allow me to spin to 7000 rpms. What pinning kit would you recommend?
Anytime you do a cam swap an underdrive pulley is always a good idea. I have a MTI 20% underdrive pulley I'll sell you including belts for $150 shipped. This setup has less than 1000 miles on it and I guaratee its quality and condition. I went forced induction is the only reason I'm getting rid of this setup. Paid $300 originally. P.M. me if interested.
SLP is also making a nice UD pulley. If you are putting it on for the first time you should be ok provided you use the recommended technique. You will probably want to pin it if using a used pulley or if you take it off and reinstall. When you do a h/c upgrade you will typically up the idle a bit anyway. I would caution against spinning to 7000 rpm on a 99. The rod bolts have been determined to be the weak link until 2001 when they upgraded them.
Let me understand this, you have a 99 FRC with a 6 speed and your going to to heads and cam and never race it at all????????????
OK, just to be on the safe side PIN THE CRANK!!!!!!!!!!!!
Let me understand this, you have a 99 FRC with a 6 speed and your going to to heads and cam and never race it at all????????????
OK, just to be on the safe side PIN THE CRANK!!!!!!!!!!!!
And as posted above, I would have the rev limiter set well below 7,000.
SLP is also making a nice UD pulley. If you are putting it on for the first time you should be ok provided you use the recommended technique. You will probably want to pin it if using a used pulley or if you take it off and reinstall. When you do a h/c upgrade you will typically up the idle a bit anyway. I would caution against spinning to 7000 rpm on a 99. The rod bolts have been determined to be the weak link until 2001 when they upgraded them.
^^ Thanks. Installing Katech rod bolts to deal with the issue.
Let me understand this, you have a 99 FRC with a 6 speed and your going to to heads and cam and never race it at all????????????
OK, just to be on the safe side PIN THE CRANK!!!!!!!!!!!!
^^The vette is going to be my street car. I plan on buying a real race car to take to HPDEs. Not sure if you have ever heard of radicals.
^^ Thanks. Installing Katech rod bolts to deal with the issue.
One word of caution here. Spinning to 7000 on a stock bottom end isn't too safe for other reasons. One issue is main bearing oil starvation causing them to spin. Another issue is valve train stability and float on the top end. If you want to build it for those rpm's you may want to forge the bottom end and if staying with hydraulic rollers get the Cadillac Racing lifers and use very light weight valves with stout springs and rockers to match. Also, you may want to wrap the bell housing with a blanket. If something in the clutch lets loose at that rpm, you could lose your legs, or worse.
One word of caution here. Spinning to 7000 on a stock bottom end isn't too safe for other reasons. One issue is main bearing oil starvation causing them to spin. Another issue is valve train stability and float on the top end. If you want to build it for those rpm's you may want to forge the bottom end and if staying with hydraulic rollers get the Cadillac Racing lifers and use very light weight valves with stout springs and rockers to match. Also, you may want to wrap the bell housing with a blanket. If something in the clutch lets loose at that rpm, you could lose your legs, or worse.
^^Thanks for the info. I appreciate your advice.
I am not going to do anything stupid. My brother won't let me.
I bought an ECS N/A cam and also have a set of ported and polished LS1 heads with springs good to 650 lift.
I am doing a number of things to ensure the reliability of the motor as I do not want to blow it.
ECS will be tuning the car and I will ask them to tune so I don't have any issues. The reason I mentioned the 7000 rpm limit is because the cam's power range is from 3000 to 7000 rpm.
Have a textralia clutch with the lightweight steel billet flywheel so hopefully I won't have to worry about a blown clutch.
I am not planning on hitting the high rpms routinely but I do like to let loose once in a while.
Because you are there already PIN THE CRANK and do the ud pulley(25% - you will have no A/C or alternator issues). BTW the SLP is a Powerbond for XX $ more, a really nice piece.
I would also look around for a set of 243 heads. They are out there for cheap money.
FYI, the SLP pulley is the same identical unit as the Powerbond. Same mfr, same exact product.
The SLP typically sells for $30-40 more than the Powerbond brand, so all you're paying more for is the SLP box it comes in.
I bought my 25% Powerbond from Texas Speed for $199 last year..was the best price I found at the time. It's a very nice quality part.
Also, for the OP, note the Powerbond/SLP pulleys do not underdrive the a/c at all. You use the stock length a/c belt. The ASP unit underives the a/c by 10%.
I'm actually in the middle of this now (waiting on pin kit and install tool to finish up). Summit racing actually makes a SFI approved 25% UD balancer for c5s now for like 150. I got one and am impressed as heck with the quality of it. The AC on it uses the factory size pulley, only the acc is UD. I decided to pin just for the added piece of mind, I don't want to have to pull that rack again!
Get an install tool in advance or you'll be like me waiting
I had heads & cam done 8 months ago.They did not pin the crank. I ended up having to tear it down & pinning it myself because the underdrive pulley worked out 1/4 of an inch. I called the vendor and was told they didnt pin cranks then,but they do now. I used the A&A kit. Pin it now,or pin it later!