I was wondering if the rod bolts on my 2000 are a screw in type (easy ones) or are they the ones you have to hammer out of the rod and have a nut holding them in (hard ones)?? I would like to change mine soon (spinning to 6700 rpm) and need to know if it will be easy or not.

 

The ones on my 2000 LS1 were easy, but the vehicle was also assembled in March of 2000 (could be different on later models)

 

If your rods are like my 98, they're cracked rod caps with bolts. No hammers allowed Don...be gentle and don't remove the rod caps...just do one side at a time, gently snug it up, do the other side and gently snug it up and then torque them both down in equal steps. At least that's how I did mine. Maybe ArKay99 or one of our many experts can comment as well.

 

Check out the katech rod bolts if you have not already. Straight bolt in operation unlike the ARPs.

Here is link.

http://www.katechengines.com/street_...etail.php?id=5

I'll be doing this with my bro on my car this winter!

 

I'm certainly no expert, but I do have experience on this topic. I posted this in another thread and copied it here. I'm kinda lazy today.
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I did this. I did it on a lift at my friend's warehouse. We built a frame around the car while it was on the lift with metal shelving he uses for storing pallets of batteries. I lashed the engine to the frame from above. I dropped the front cradle and removed the oil pan. Once in there I followed ARP's recommended procedure and torque sequence.
I used the ARP Pro's. However, I would recommend going with the Katech's. They are the same weight and length as the stock bolts but are much stronger and they are designed so you don't have to resize the rods. I didn't resize my rods as many other's haven't using the ARP's, but the Katech's don't recommend it. Also, the right way to install the ARP's would be to use a bolt stretch gauge. Katech recommends a torque value.
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One word of caution. My rods didn't have ferrul's installed. The earlier one's don't, but they changed them around 99 so when you do this make certain you have ferruls or not. If so they need to be removed before installing the new bolts.

 

Nice write up! and the link above is good from INDEPENDENT1
http://www.katechengines.com/street_...etail.php?id=5

I might end up doing this myself in the future being that mine is a '98!

Q: Anything I need to be on the look out for being that mine is a '98 and a tight strong one at that?

All and any suggestions needed and welcome!

Thanks,Matt

 

Thanks for the info guys, so does anyone know for sure if my 2000 (built in May and I have 853 heads) will have the rod bolts with or without these ferrul's?? Also what are ferrul's?


madmatt9471, that link does not work do you have another? Or does anyone have a write up on this? Can it be done on jack stands?

 

I copied this from INDEPENDENT1's thread also.
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John, the ferruls are small round cylinder-like inserts that go in the bolt hole on the rod. I think that when GM changed to the higher strength rod bolts they started putting these in to help. If you have a 98 You don't have them. I have a 99 and didn't. There was a thread on another board where the poster had the ferruls and didn't change them when he changed the rod bolts and lost a rod and the bottom end.
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Here is another solution.
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Also, the way I did it was to go down to the local hardware store and purchase two pieces of aircraft quality 3/16" stainless steel cable. With hooks on one end to attach to the motor mounts and then loop around the shock towers and double clamp. Then removed the engine cradle while on a lift. Worked perfectly and only cost me about $30.
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I'll bet you could do it this way on jack stands. It won't be easy. There are some on another site that have done it on F-Bodies.
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Here is a link to a write up on jack stands, but it's with an F-Body. However, except for certain differences it pretty much will translate to a Y-Body.
Rod bolt change on jack stands
As far as ferrules, here is a link to some further inof on this.
Ferrule info
You could also do a search on that site for the info. BTW, I'm not trying to promote that site on this one. It's just easier to post the links than to copy all the info and post it here.