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Popping/Clunking when turning

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Old Dec 28, 2007 | 12:50 PM
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Default Popping/Clunking when turning

I just about want to jump off a cliff at this point. I had heard that the popping noise I heard while turning the wheel (standing still or while driving) at certain points could be fixed by either the front swaybar bushings or new metal endlinks. I buy both of these as well as some c6 z06 shocks and not only do I still have the steering noise, I have more suspension noises all around!

Could it be a tie rod? Im running on no sleep and looking for an answer and how much of a pain it would be to fix...


If it helps, I can feel the popping/clunking through the whheel as well as hearing it
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Old Dec 28, 2007 | 01:40 PM
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Have you checked out your ball joints, and upper and lower control arm bushings?
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Old Dec 28, 2007 | 01:54 PM
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Originally Posted by JagTech
Have you checked out your ball joints, and upper and lower control arm bushings?

it seems like that would be more suspension travel than a steering issue but i can look at them
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Old Dec 28, 2007 | 02:57 PM
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Originally Posted by BrianG01



it seems like that would be more suspension travel than a steering issue but i can look at them
Drive your car up on ramps and check everything out for tightness, etc.

I would also retorque all of the hardware. If you have a 2001 and older vette check the plastic links on the sway bar ends.
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Old Dec 28, 2007 | 03:02 PM
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Originally Posted by BrianG01
I just about want to jump off a cliff at this point. I had heard that the popping noise I heard while turning the wheel (standing still or while driving) at certain points could be fixed by either the front swaybar bushings or new metal endlinks. I buy both of these as well as some c6 z06 shocks and not only do I still have the steering noise, I have more suspension noises all around!

Could it be a tie rod? Im running on no sleep and looking for an answer and how much of a pain it would be to fix...


If it helps, I can feel the popping/clunking through the whheel as well as hearing it
If it makes the noise standing still while turning the wheel, it sounds like you need to be underneath the car while someone turns the wheel so you can isolate the sound. Sound travels, so you've got to be close.
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Old Dec 28, 2007 | 03:08 PM
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Originally Posted by BrianG01
I just about want to jump off a cliff at this point. I had heard that the popping noise I heard while turning the wheel (standing still or while driving) at certain points could be fixed by either the front swaybar bushings or new metal endlinks. I buy both of these as well as some c6 z06 shocks and not only do I still have the steering noise, I have more suspension noises all around!

Could it be a tie rod? Im running on no sleep and looking for an answer and how much of a pain it would be to fix...


If it helps, I can feel the popping/clunking through the whheel as well as hearing it
I VOTE INNER TIE RODS AND WORN BALLJOINTS..OEM BALLJOINTS SUCK!
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Old Dec 28, 2007 | 03:57 PM
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Originally Posted by rustyguns
I VOTE INNER TIE RODS AND WORN BALLJOINTS..OEM BALLJOINTS SUCK!
any idea what a shop would charge for this work? At this point im tired of working on the car and running out of free time
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Old Dec 28, 2007 | 04:22 PM
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Originally Posted by BrianG01
any idea what a shop would charge for this work? At this point im tired of working on the car and running out of free time
i had one balljoint replaced for 150 bucks labor. i bought the press and doing th others myself. i wanted to see how it was done

ball joint was "DANA" heavy duty 90 bucks. looked a lot stronger than the stock one. I am till shopping for inner tie rods, they make heavy duty ones 75 bucks each or stock are around 45 each.


when you see a picture of the inner tie rods you will understand why they fail...tiny!

depends on how you do it for cost...replace all the a-arms with new balljoints..$$ but less labor...or replace individual ball joints less $$ but more labor

then you need a 4 wheel alignment

if you do it yourself you will save enough money to buy all the tools,parts and have $ left over compared to having a shop do it
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Old Dec 28, 2007 | 04:41 PM
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Originally Posted by rustyguns
i had one balljoint replaced for 150 bucks labor. i bought the press and doing th others myself. i wanted to see how it was done

ball joint was "DANA" heavy duty 90 bucks. looked a lot stronger than the stock one. I am till shopping for inner tie rods, they make heavy duty ones 75 bucks each or stock are around 45 each.


when you see a picture of the inner tie rods you will understand why they fail...tiny!

depends on how you do it for cost...replace all the a-arms with new balljoints..$$ but less labor...or replace individual ball joints less $$ but more labor

then you need a 4 wheel alignment

if you do it yourself you will save enough money to buy all the tools,parts and have $ left over compared to having a shop do it


how hard is the tie rod replacement once the rack is out? Ive removed the rack once before for a cam install ... does it have to be completely out of the car or can you just have it hanging out of a wheel well?

any good writeups on this?
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Old Dec 28, 2007 | 04:52 PM
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Originally Posted by BrianG01
I just about want to jump off a cliff at this point. I had heard that the popping noise I heard while turning the wheel (standing still or while driving) at certain points could be fixed by either the front swaybar bushings or new metal endlinks. I buy both of these as well as some c6 z06 shocks and not only do I still have the steering noise, I have more suspension noises all around!

Could it be a tie rod? Im running on no sleep and looking for an answer and how much of a pain it would be to fix...


If it helps, I can feel the popping/clunking through the whheel as well as hearing it
I have the answer. Replace the steering rack assembly I had that problem last week. Checked everything!!!!! The sound comes from the rack. You can pick up used ones like I did. Goood Luck.
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Old Dec 28, 2007 | 05:03 PM
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Originally Posted by cajunmech
I have the answer. Replace the steering rack assembly I had that problem last week. Checked everything!!!!! The sound comes from the rack. You can pick up used ones like I did. Goood Luck.
not a bad idea..i am contemplating this..i see them for around 225 rebuilt and they have new inner tie rods

so a low mileage rack around $150 with a few tie rods would make my day!
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Old Dec 28, 2007 | 05:19 PM
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How do you get the rack completely out? I only got it sticking out of the wheel well for my cam install
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Old Dec 28, 2007 | 05:25 PM
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Originally Posted by BrianG01
How do you get the rack completely out? I only got it sticking out of the wheel well for my cam install
Why are you pulling out the rack ?

Best to just slide it out the passenger side after disconnecting the power steering lines and (4) mounting bolts.
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Old Dec 28, 2007 | 05:28 PM
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Originally Posted by ajg1915
Why are you pulling out the rack ?

Best to just slide it out the passenger side after disconnecting the power steering lines and (4) mounting bolts.
well if i need to do tie rods or just replace the entire rack, I wasnt sure how to get it out of the car
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Old Dec 28, 2007 | 05:44 PM
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Originally Posted by BrianG01
well if i need to do tie rods or just replace the entire rack, I wasnt sure how to get it out of the car
They just unscrew once you break the lock nuts off. Takes only a few minutes to change once everything is apart.

I would out the car together first and torque everything down before going on wild goose chase and wasting a bunch of money.
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Old Dec 28, 2007 | 05:51 PM
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Originally Posted by ajg1915
They just unscrew once you break the lock nuts off. Takes only a few minutes to change once everything is apart.

I would out the car together first and torque everything down before going on wild goose chase and wasting a bunch of money.
What is there to torque down? I just did the sway bar bushings and put in new end links and shocks so I got everything related to all those parts
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Old Dec 28, 2007 | 05:57 PM
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Originally Posted by BrianG01
What is there to torque down? I just did the sway bar bushings and put in new end links and shocks so I got everything related to all those parts
I would check the "A" arms, lower and upper ball joints, top and bottom shock mounts.

What year is the car and how many miles on it ?
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Old Dec 28, 2007 | 07:31 PM
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Originally Posted by BrianG01
How do you get the rack completely out? I only got it sticking out of the wheel well for my cam install
http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=1

that is good DIY for cam swap and steering rack is in there

PS great website!
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Old Dec 29, 2007 | 02:28 AM
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Originally Posted by ajg1915
I would check the "A" arms, lower and upper ball joints, top and bottom shock mounts.

What year is the car and how many miles on it ?
It's a 1999 and just hit 60k miles. I just put new shocks, endlinks, and sway bar bushings on it.
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Old Dec 30, 2007 | 12:35 AM
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Originally Posted by BrianG01
It's a 1999 and just hit 60k miles. I just put new shocks, endlinks, and sway bar bushings on it.
I would make sure that your shock tower nuts are tight and they are not moving around. You need to get them pretty tight.
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