Anyone have a tutorial on installing SS brake lines?
Race Director
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 15,960
Likes: 21
From: West Norriton PA
St. Jude Donor '08
Not really a big deal. Just get a big open oil type pan to collect all of the brake fluid.
You'll need some flared wrenches and sockets. If the lines are really tight use some PB Blaster.
Crack open both sides of the line and then remome and install the line portion that goes to the body and then the caliper.
Bleed the brakes and you done. Now would be a great time to add some speed bleeders and Motul RBF 600 brake fluid.
You'll need some flared wrenches and sockets. If the lines are really tight use some PB Blaster.
Crack open both sides of the line and then remome and install the line portion that goes to the body and then the caliper.
Bleed the brakes and you done. Now would be a great time to add some speed bleeders and Motul RBF 600 brake fluid.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 3,447
Likes: 6
From: Los Angeles
I did the SS lines when I swapped my calipers/rotors. It's pretty straight forward. Just remember the longer two of the four go in the rear. I didn't notice too much of a difference in every day braking response. However, HARD braking was easier to modulate.
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 117
Likes: 3
From: College Station Texas
I am about to do this myself, been looking around and haven't found any tutorials/guides but most people seem to say its fairly easy.
I plan on repainting the calipers while doing it, what's the best way to block off the line so that it doesn't drain all the brake fluid out while it's disconnected?
I plan on repainting the calipers while doing it, what's the best way to block off the line so that it doesn't drain all the brake fluid out while it's disconnected?
Race Director
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 15,960
Likes: 21
From: West Norriton PA
St. Jude Donor '08
The longer ones go in front and the shorter ones go in rear, you had it backwards. You need longer ones in the front to turn (movement) whereas the in the rear they are stationary.
Race Director
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 15,960
Likes: 21
From: West Norriton PA
St. Jude Donor '08
I am about to do this myself, been looking around and haven't found any tutorials/guides but most people seem to say its fairly easy.
I plan on repainting the calipers while doing it, what's the best way to block off the line so that it doesn't drain all the brake fluid out while it's disconnected?
I plan on repainting the calipers while doing it, what's the best way to block off the line so that it doesn't drain all the brake fluid out while it's disconnected?
You can use some vaccum caps.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 2,303
Likes: 40
From: Edmonton Alberta
I'm planning on doing mine too. I'm going with the "Goodridge" ss brand and you can buy the optional quick bleeders as well.
On a side note: It is a good time to paint your calipers too. I did mine backwards and had them painted first - glassbleed, powder coated and clear coated. Went with the same color as my car, pewter and it turned out really good!
On a side note: It is a good time to paint your calipers too. I did mine backwards and had them painted first - glassbleed, powder coated and clear coated. Went with the same color as my car, pewter and it turned out really good!
Race Director
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 15,960
Likes: 21
From: West Norriton PA
St. Jude Donor '08
I'm planning on doing mine too. I'm going with the "Goodridge" ss brand and you can buy the optional quick bleeders as well.
On a side note: It is a good time to paint your calipers too. I did mine backwards and had them painted first - glassbleed, powder coated and clear coated. Went with the same color as my car, pewter and it turned out really good!
On a side note: It is a good time to paint your calipers too. I did mine backwards and had them painted first - glassbleed, powder coated and clear coated. Went with the same color as my car, pewter and it turned out really good!
http://www.vbandp.com/detail.aspx?ID=75
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,464
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From: Cedarburg, WI
Team Owner
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 21,473
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From: Palmdale, Ca----- 2009 Cyber Gray 4LT A6 F55 452 RWHP 422 RWTQ- RIP 1998 C5 734 RWHP & 585 RWTQ-----
The best Brake lines (goodridge) are from VBP. They eliminate the old blocks on the back and allow you to adjust the hoses better so that they won't rub.
http://www.vbandp.com/detail.aspx?ID=75
http://www.vbandp.com/detail.aspx?ID=75
I'll check this out and do them soon!
Thanks for your inputs on the lines and doing it right!
Thanks,Matt
Race Director
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 15,960
Likes: 21
From: West Norriton PA
St. Jude Donor '08
They are the ones not to get, as they have the block ends that do not allow you to adjust the steel lines to avoid contact with the rims and other suspension parts.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,464
Likes: 2
From: Cedarburg, WI
Race Director
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 15,960
Likes: 21
From: West Norriton PA
St. Jude Donor '08
I would. Click on the other link, that I posted above and you'll see the difference in the end pieces (elbows) instead of blocks. This allows you position the steel brake lines correctly.
Race Director
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 15,960
Likes: 21
From: West Norriton PA
St. Jude Donor '08
You can not stop any faster than your tires allow. Keep in mind that if you are activating your ABS you are already at your limit.
Thread Starter
Former Vendor
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 8,995
Likes: 2
From: Spring Texas
St. Jude Donor '08
This is part of an brake system upgrade I want to do in late Jan. R1 concepts D/S rotors, Hawk HPS pads and Goodridge SS braided lines.
Pro
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 505
Likes: 2
From: VA
S#@T! I have mine wrong then. I read elsewhere to put the longer ones in the rear, no instructions were included. The difference is only about an inch or so, they were so close that I had to lay them side by side to tell. I found that even the "short" ones significantly longer than the stock lines front and rear.
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 71,447
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From: Miami bound
CI 4-5-6-7 Veteran
You won't notice much in day-to-day use. Where you will notice it is in repeated, hard braking, when the fluid starts to heat up, the rubber lines would get soft and expand when the brakes were applied, this would require more pedal application than normal to achieve the same braking force at the pads. The SS lines won't expand when heated.
Thread Starter
Former Vendor
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 8,995
Likes: 2
From: Spring Texas
St. Jude Donor '08
You won't notice much in day-to-day use. Where you will notice it is in repeated, hard braking, when the fluid starts to heat up, the rubber lines would get soft and expand when the brakes were applied, this would require more pedal application than normal to achieve the same braking force at the pads. The SS lines won't expand when heated.
Race Director
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 15,960
Likes: 21
From: West Norriton PA
St. Jude Donor '08