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Old Jan 8, 2008 | 07:13 PM
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Is there any drawbacks to installing drilled and slotted rotors on a vette? I remember someone mentioning them causing vibration or somthing. For you guys that have them, is there any reason not to install them?
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Old Jan 8, 2008 | 07:19 PM
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If you track the car or do really extensive hard braking, some of the cross drilled rotors tend to develop cracks. I have Baer Eradispeed slotted/drilled rotors on mine and do not track the car. I've not had any problems with stress cracks, etc.
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Old Jan 8, 2008 | 07:20 PM
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Some people have had drilled rotors crack. You'll probably be fine if you dont abuse the brakes too much.

I went with the Powerslot(slotted only) rotors for some peice of mind.
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Old Jan 8, 2008 | 07:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeffs FRC
Some people have had drilled rotors crack. You'll probably be fine if you dont abuse the brakes too much.

I went with the Powerslot(slotted only) rotors for some peice of mind.
I stayed with stock rotors for the same reason.
Ed
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Old Jan 8, 2008 | 07:40 PM
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They would really be only for show.(they're PURDY! ) I do "occasionaly" drive the car fast, but only when I have a lot of room to SLOW down I never track the car other than about twice a year to the strip, so the brakes will never be abused. I've got approx. 50,000 miles on the car and still have plenty left on the original pads, but I'm going to put a new set ceramic pads on it when I swap rotors.
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Old Jan 8, 2008 | 07:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeffs FRC
Some people have had drilled rotors crack. You'll probably be fine if you dont abuse the brakes too much.

I went with the Powerslot(slotted only) rotors for some peice of mind.
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Old Jan 8, 2008 | 07:49 PM
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Originally Posted by C5XTASY
I stayed with stock rotors for the same reason.
Ed
I would have stuck with the stockers, but mine get a vibration when they heat up.

Originally Posted by BOTTLE FED
They would really be only for show.(they're PURDY! ) I do "occasionaly" drive the car fast, but only when I have a lot of room to SLOW down I never track the car other than about twice a year to the strip, so the brakes will never be abused. I've got approx. 50,000 miles on the car and still have plenty left on the original pads, but I'm going to put a new set ceramic pads on it when I swap rotors.
Sounds like the drilled would be ok for you then.

I have had the ceramics on for a couple years now. They are nice for keeping dust down, but once they heat up be careful. They dont stop for ****. Ill be replacing mine with some Hawks.
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Old Jan 8, 2008 | 08:10 PM
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I don't have them on my FRC yet, but when the time comes to replace pads and rotors I'll be going with cryo treated Power Slots and Hawk HP+ pads.

I run this setup on the Z28 I drive at work. I ABUSE my Z28 at work. This is by far the best brake setup I've had on the car. I have run Drilled, drilled and slotted, and now slotted from some of the big names in the brake business, this is by far the best setup I have run. I did like the Brembo slotted rotors with the Hawk pads, but I didn't get the mileage out of them I am getting from the newest setup. I never warped a Brembo rotor, but they wore fast( ~4500 miles of hard use) If you want your car to STOP, you have to look past the brake dust and noise.
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Old Jan 8, 2008 | 09:23 PM
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Originally Posted by XXXLTRP
I don't have them on my FRC yet, but when the time comes to replace pads and rotors I'll be going with cryo treated Power Slots and Hawk HP+ pads.

If you want your car to STOP, you have to look past the brake dust and noise.
So are you guys saying it would be better to go witth semi-metalic pads?? I was thinking the C5s came with ceramic, so I just wanted a nice quite (read;no squealing) brake pad. Brake dust doesn't bother me since I clean the car CONSTANTLY, but I don't want brakes that squeal If hard driving (or braking) is the only thing that affects them, I won't have a problem with ceramic
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Old Jan 9, 2008 | 01:47 AM
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When they were new, they were loud. They have seated in nicely and are quiet. The Hawk pads with the Brembo slots were noisy all the time. The Brembo slots gave me more initial "bite" that the cryo treated Power Slots. The cryo Power Slots work better with some heat in them. Neither set up ever failed me, and they get abused day in and day out. The stock setup was easily destroyed with the use and abuse the car takes . After a few sets of stock gm pads and rotors, the aftermarket companies were the best/ safest option.

If you are not going to drive it hard, the stock equipment may be all you need.
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Old Jan 9, 2008 | 08:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Jeffs FRC
I would have stuck with the stockers, but mine get a vibration when they heat up.



Sounds like the drilled would be ok for you then.

I have had the ceramics on for a couple years now. They are nice for keeping dust down, but once they heat up be careful. They dont stop for ****. Ill be replacing mine with some Hawks.
While keeping my stock rotors, I also went with HAwk HPS pads. Great performance, low dusting and silent. Highly recommend them. Ceramics do indeed have a problem if they get too hot.
Ed
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Old Jan 9, 2008 | 08:46 AM
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Sorry for being redundant, but don't the cars come stock with ceramic pads? If so, the ceramics should work great for someone like me. I am only adding the slooted/drilled rotors for the bling. I won't change the way I drive, and the stock brake system has being more than ample for me so far.
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Old Jan 9, 2008 | 08:49 AM
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Originally Posted by BOTTLE FED
So are you guys saying it would be better to go witth semi-metalic pads?? I was thinking the C5s came with ceramic, so I just wanted a nice quite (read;no squealing) brake pad. Brake dust doesn't bother me since I clean the car CONSTANTLY, but I don't want brakes that squeal If hard driving (or braking) is the only thing that affects them, I won't have a problem with ceramic
The OE pads are semi-metallic, not ceramic. And, since you said you won't be intentionally driving the car using the brakes hard (i.e. autocross or an HPDE), you're really only concerned about getting the car stopped in a max braking effort ONCE. For that purpose, the ceramics should work fine.

I've found the OE replacement pads (HPS, PFC, etc.) to be quiet and relatively low dust.

HTH, and have a good one,
Mike
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Old Jan 9, 2008 | 09:17 AM
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Replaced mine about 2 years ago with Eradispeed 2pc. Hawk HPS pads and SS lines. I don't track the car, but I have noticed a much better feel of the braking, better bite and love them. Mark[IMG][/IMG]
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Old Jan 9, 2008 | 09:40 AM
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Originally Posted by BOTTLE FED
Sorry for being redundant, but don't the cars come stock with ceramic pads? If so, the ceramics should work great for someone like me. I am only adding the slooted/drilled rotors for the bling. I won't change the way I drive, and the stock brake system has being more than ample for me so far.
Ceramics will work fine for you, even if you clean all the time brake dust sucks. Drilled rotors will also be fine, just either get some that are zinc washed or paint them with 1,500 deg paint to keep the rust off.
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Old Jan 9, 2008 | 10:20 AM
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I have had Brembo pads and drilled and slotted (Brembo) rotors for a couple of years now. I drive the car pretty easy, but have tracked it once with this set up. I had no problems on the track and certainly not daily driving. And I do think they look better too.

Speed
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Old Jan 9, 2008 | 02:02 PM
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What is all this rotor talk??? do we need to change them?

Last edited by Evil-Twin; Jan 9, 2008 at 05:06 PM.
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Old Jan 9, 2008 | 03:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Evil-Twin
What is all thios rotor talk??? do we need to change them?
Man, you have NOT been reading your Owner's Manual .... the rotors should be changed every time you replace the rat running on the treadmill driving the heater and A/C fans ...... sheesh .....



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Old Jan 9, 2008 | 05:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Evil-Twin
What is all this rotor talk??? do we need to change them?
Originally Posted by BlackZ06
Man, you have NOT been reading your Owner's Manual .... the rotors should be changed every time you replace the rat running on the treadmill driving the heater and A/C fans ...... sheesh .....




you may or may not be correct about the rat, but you are incorrect about the owner's manual...he doesn't need to read it...he wrote it

Last edited by Yello95; Jan 9, 2008 at 11:41 PM.
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Old Jan 9, 2008 | 08:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Evil-Twin
What is all this rotor talk??? do we need to change them?
ET, good to hear from you!!!
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