Installing Urethane Bushings (my experience)
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 468
Likes: 15
From: Jupiter FL
Installing Urethane Bushings (my experience)
I am in the process of installing VP urethane bushings on my 00FRC.
There are some great posts on this Forum that gave me a great deal of information, that got me ready for the process.
My experience when easier than I expected. Most posts talked about using a press to remove the old rubber bushings. I don't have a press so I figured I would burn my old bushings out.
I pulled all of my control arms. I had gone to Advanced Auto and bought/rented a ball joint separator kit. Turns out I did not need it for the ball joints. I used a small puller I owned ($10.00 tool) for the tie rod ends and upper ball joints, and lower front ball joints. The rear lower ball joints were separated using a ball joint fork but not in the conventional way. To avoid hurting the rubber boots you use the fork as a wedge between the top of the ball joint bolt and the CV joint.
That trick I learned from this Forum.
So sticking to my plan I burned the bushings out of the left upper control arm. What a mess, and talk about stink. I just sat there looking at the mess. And the pile of control arms sitting at my feet. Then it hit me. I went to the ball joint separator kit and selected the largest puller in the group. This puller worked great. The claws grab the edge of the control arm then tighten the bolt and in less than 60seconds the rubber bushing is out. You don't have to even Hack saw the lip off as several people have recommended. Now it was finished, all except for the other front upper control arm. No matter how I set it up the ball joint puller would not work. So I went to a vice. I drilled 6 holes in the rubber bushing then twisted the bushing out. Quite easy.
If I were to do this job again, I would not pull the control arms. Except for the upper front, which are easily removed. In the rear for instance, I would disconnect the upper arm from the frame, twist it around to the outside of the car and use the ball joint puller to remove the rubber bushing. Then insert the urethane bushing and re -attach it to the frame. Separate the lower control from the frame and remove the bushings under the car, etc. etc.
I should have the job finished in a day or so. I am also installing stainless steel brake lines. As well as ZO6 shocks and rear spring, and Hodgkins sway bars.
There are some great posts on this Forum that gave me a great deal of information, that got me ready for the process.
My experience when easier than I expected. Most posts talked about using a press to remove the old rubber bushings. I don't have a press so I figured I would burn my old bushings out.
I pulled all of my control arms. I had gone to Advanced Auto and bought/rented a ball joint separator kit. Turns out I did not need it for the ball joints. I used a small puller I owned ($10.00 tool) for the tie rod ends and upper ball joints, and lower front ball joints. The rear lower ball joints were separated using a ball joint fork but not in the conventional way. To avoid hurting the rubber boots you use the fork as a wedge between the top of the ball joint bolt and the CV joint.
That trick I learned from this Forum.
So sticking to my plan I burned the bushings out of the left upper control arm. What a mess, and talk about stink. I just sat there looking at the mess. And the pile of control arms sitting at my feet. Then it hit me. I went to the ball joint separator kit and selected the largest puller in the group. This puller worked great. The claws grab the edge of the control arm then tighten the bolt and in less than 60seconds the rubber bushing is out. You don't have to even Hack saw the lip off as several people have recommended. Now it was finished, all except for the other front upper control arm. No matter how I set it up the ball joint puller would not work. So I went to a vice. I drilled 6 holes in the rubber bushing then twisted the bushing out. Quite easy.
If I were to do this job again, I would not pull the control arms. Except for the upper front, which are easily removed. In the rear for instance, I would disconnect the upper arm from the frame, twist it around to the outside of the car and use the ball joint puller to remove the rubber bushing. Then insert the urethane bushing and re -attach it to the frame. Separate the lower control from the frame and remove the bushings under the car, etc. etc.
I should have the job finished in a day or so. I am also installing stainless steel brake lines. As well as ZO6 shocks and rear spring, and Hodgkins sway bars.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 19,450
Likes: 1,155
From: Dyer, IN
I am in the process of installing VP urethane bushings on my 00FRC.
There are some great posts on this Forum that gave me a great deal of information, that got me ready for the process.
My experience when easier than I expected. Most posts talked about using a press to remove the old rubber bushings. I don't have a press so I figured I would burn my old bushings out.
I pulled all of my control arms. I had gone to Advanced Auto and bought/rented a ball joint separator kit. Turns out I did not need it for the ball joints. I used a small puller I owned ($10.00 tool) for the tie rod ends and upper ball joints, and lower front ball joints. The rear lower ball joints were separated using a ball joint fork but not in the conventional way. To avoid hurting the rubber boots you use the fork as a wedge between the top of the ball joint bolt and the CV joint.
That trick I learned from this Forum.
So sticking to my plan I burned the bushings out of the left upper control arm. What a mess, and talk about stink. I just sat there looking at the mess. And the pile of control arms sitting at my feet. Then it hit me. I went to the ball joint separator kit and selected the largest puller in the group. This puller worked great. The claws grab the edge of the control arm then tighten the bolt and in less than 60seconds the rubber bushing is out. You don't have to even Hack saw the lip off as several people have recommended. Now it was finished, all except for the other front upper control arm. No matter how I set it up the ball joint puller would not work. So I went to a vice. I drilled 6 holes in the rubber bushing then twisted the bushing out. Quite easy.
If I were to do this job again, I would not pull the control arms. Except for the upper front, which are easily removed. In the rear for instance, I would disconnect the upper arm from the frame, twist it around to the outside of the car and use the ball joint puller to remove the rubber bushing. Then insert the urethane bushing and re -attach it to the frame. Separate the lower control from the frame and remove the bushings under the car, etc. etc.
I should have the job finished in a day or so. I am also installing stainless steel brake lines. As well as ZO6 shocks and rear spring, and Hodgkins sway bars.
There are some great posts on this Forum that gave me a great deal of information, that got me ready for the process.
My experience when easier than I expected. Most posts talked about using a press to remove the old rubber bushings. I don't have a press so I figured I would burn my old bushings out.
I pulled all of my control arms. I had gone to Advanced Auto and bought/rented a ball joint separator kit. Turns out I did not need it for the ball joints. I used a small puller I owned ($10.00 tool) for the tie rod ends and upper ball joints, and lower front ball joints. The rear lower ball joints were separated using a ball joint fork but not in the conventional way. To avoid hurting the rubber boots you use the fork as a wedge between the top of the ball joint bolt and the CV joint.
That trick I learned from this Forum.
So sticking to my plan I burned the bushings out of the left upper control arm. What a mess, and talk about stink. I just sat there looking at the mess. And the pile of control arms sitting at my feet. Then it hit me. I went to the ball joint separator kit and selected the largest puller in the group. This puller worked great. The claws grab the edge of the control arm then tighten the bolt and in less than 60seconds the rubber bushing is out. You don't have to even Hack saw the lip off as several people have recommended. Now it was finished, all except for the other front upper control arm. No matter how I set it up the ball joint puller would not work. So I went to a vice. I drilled 6 holes in the rubber bushing then twisted the bushing out. Quite easy.
If I were to do this job again, I would not pull the control arms. Except for the upper front, which are easily removed. In the rear for instance, I would disconnect the upper arm from the frame, twist it around to the outside of the car and use the ball joint puller to remove the rubber bushing. Then insert the urethane bushing and re -attach it to the frame. Separate the lower control from the frame and remove the bushings under the car, etc. etc.
I should have the job finished in a day or so. I am also installing stainless steel brake lines. As well as ZO6 shocks and rear spring, and Hodgkins sway bars.
Most machine shops will press out old bushings and press in new for about $50.
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 10,961
Likes: 2,643
From: Texas Hill Country
Race Director
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 15,960
Likes: 21
From: West Norriton PA
St. Jude Donor '08
I am in the process of installing VP urethane bushings on my 00FRC.
There are some great posts on this Forum that gave me a great deal of information, that got me ready for the process.
My experience when easier than I expected. Most posts talked about using a press to remove the old rubber bushings. I don't have a press so I figured I would burn my old bushings out.
I pulled all of my control arms. I had gone to Advanced Auto and bought/rented a ball joint separator kit. Turns out I did not need it for the ball joints. I used a small puller I owned ($10.00 tool) for the tie rod ends and upper ball joints, and lower front ball joints. The rear lower ball joints were separated using a ball joint fork but not in the conventional way. To avoid hurting the rubber boots you use the fork as a wedge between the top of the ball joint bolt and the CV joint.
That trick I learned from this Forum.
So sticking to my plan I burned the bushings out of the left upper control arm. What a mess, and talk about stink. I just sat there looking at the mess. And the pile of control arms sitting at my feet. Then it hit me. I went to the ball joint separator kit and selected the largest puller in the group. This puller worked great. The claws grab the edge of the control arm then tighten the bolt and in less than 60seconds the rubber bushing is out. You don't have to even Hack saw the lip off as several people have recommended. Now it was finished, all except for the other front upper control arm. No matter how I set it up the ball joint puller would not work. So I went to a vice. I drilled 6 holes in the rubber bushing then twisted the bushing out. Quite easy.
If I were to do this job again, I would not pull the control arms. Except for the upper front, which are easily removed. In the rear for instance, I would disconnect the upper arm from the frame, twist it around to the outside of the car and use the ball joint puller to remove the rubber bushing. Then insert the urethane bushing and re -attach it to the frame. Separate the lower control from the frame and remove the bushings under the car, etc. etc.
I should have the job finished in a day or so. I am also installing stainless steel brake lines. As well as ZO6 shocks and rear spring, and Hodgkins sway bars.
There are some great posts on this Forum that gave me a great deal of information, that got me ready for the process.
My experience when easier than I expected. Most posts talked about using a press to remove the old rubber bushings. I don't have a press so I figured I would burn my old bushings out.
I pulled all of my control arms. I had gone to Advanced Auto and bought/rented a ball joint separator kit. Turns out I did not need it for the ball joints. I used a small puller I owned ($10.00 tool) for the tie rod ends and upper ball joints, and lower front ball joints. The rear lower ball joints were separated using a ball joint fork but not in the conventional way. To avoid hurting the rubber boots you use the fork as a wedge between the top of the ball joint bolt and the CV joint.
That trick I learned from this Forum.
So sticking to my plan I burned the bushings out of the left upper control arm. What a mess, and talk about stink. I just sat there looking at the mess. And the pile of control arms sitting at my feet. Then it hit me. I went to the ball joint separator kit and selected the largest puller in the group. This puller worked great. The claws grab the edge of the control arm then tighten the bolt and in less than 60seconds the rubber bushing is out. You don't have to even Hack saw the lip off as several people have recommended. Now it was finished, all except for the other front upper control arm. No matter how I set it up the ball joint puller would not work. So I went to a vice. I drilled 6 holes in the rubber bushing then twisted the bushing out. Quite easy.
If I were to do this job again, I would not pull the control arms. Except for the upper front, which are easily removed. In the rear for instance, I would disconnect the upper arm from the frame, twist it around to the outside of the car and use the ball joint puller to remove the rubber bushing. Then insert the urethane bushing and re -attach it to the frame. Separate the lower control from the frame and remove the bushings under the car, etc. etc.
I should have the job finished in a day or so. I am also installing stainless steel brake lines. As well as ZO6 shocks and rear spring, and Hodgkins sway bars.
I did this to my 2001 a while back and I am going to do my bro's in a couple of months.
A ball joint press works really well to press them out. Just squit in a bunch of PB Blaster and press out. When you done make sure you clean the "A" atrms up really well so that there is no dirt, else wise you might get some noise from the bushings.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 468
Likes: 15
From: Jupiter FL
But on the Corvette you don't press in the VBP bushings.
Still think the Ball Joint press is the best deal, because if you do it right you don;t have to pull the entire assembly apart.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 19,450
Likes: 1,155
From: Dyer, IN
I guess that is an option. The last time I had bushings pressed out of my Cobra (front only) it was $125 and only 4 bushings and 2 ball joints.
But on the Corvette you don't press in the VBP bushings.
Still think the Ball Joint press is the best deal, because if you do it right you don;t have to pull the entire assembly apart.
But on the Corvette you don't press in the VBP bushings.
Still think the Ball Joint press is the best deal, because if you do it right you don;t have to pull the entire assembly apart.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,464
Likes: 2
From: Cedarburg, WI
Would not recommending burning out as was reported....very messy! I have drilled the rubber in the past on my C4, and they easily pressed out with a vise.
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Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 19,450
Likes: 1,155
From: Dyer, IN
For me, it's not about the mess..rather..it's about the temperature of the flame. Even a regular propane torch can exceed the melting temp of aluminum. It's just not worth it.
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,947
Likes: 8
From: Redwood City CA
Harbor Freight has the ball joint tool for sale. Sometimes its on special for $20.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=4065
I did the bushings on old rx7 using the 12 ton shop press($120)
Now I have this big *** thing taking up space in my garage...LOL
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=4065
I did the bushings on old rx7 using the 12 ton shop press($120)
Now I have this big *** thing taking up space in my garage...LOL
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 468
Likes: 15
From: Jupiter FL
The Harbor Freight tool shown is not the type of thing I used. The tool shown is more of a ball joint puller/installer, rather than a ball joint "separator". The tool I used was a claw type of tool, like a wheel puller with two "claws" to grip the control arm.
Race Director
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 15,960
Likes: 21
From: West Norriton PA
St. Jude Donor '08
Harbor Freight has the ball joint tool for sale. Sometimes its on special for $20.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=4065
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=4065
You put the big cup on one side and push it thru. Worked pretty well once I got the hang of it.
Just be careful to not do the shock absorber mount as they do not supply a poly mount for that location.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 468
Likes: 15
From: Jupiter FL
Let me clarify....I did burn out the left front upper bushings. Then I saw the light. I was wrong, I do not recommend burning, for all the
reasons mentioned above. Do not burn them out.
There are several choices to remove the bushings. (that I see, could be more)
1. Take to a shop and have them pressed out.
2. Use a ball-joint "separator" tool.
3. Use a ball-joint remover tool (as illustrated above)
I have used the type of tool (illustrated above) to remove ball joints. It works well but the work must be anchored in a vice.
The tool I used the ball joint separator could be used with out a vise (the way I did it) and I believe could be used with out disconnecting the control arm form the spindle.
The rear shock absorber bushing was mentioned above. I kept looking at it wondering why the kit did not include a replacement urethane bushing for it. Does any one have an opinion about it. Is replacing it worth wile, to aid handling.
reasons mentioned above. Do not burn them out.
There are several choices to remove the bushings. (that I see, could be more)
1. Take to a shop and have them pressed out.
2. Use a ball-joint "separator" tool.
3. Use a ball-joint remover tool (as illustrated above)
I have used the type of tool (illustrated above) to remove ball joints. It works well but the work must be anchored in a vice.
The tool I used the ball joint separator could be used with out a vise (the way I did it) and I believe could be used with out disconnecting the control arm form the spindle.
The rear shock absorber bushing was mentioned above. I kept looking at it wondering why the kit did not include a replacement urethane bushing for it. Does any one have an opinion about it. Is replacing it worth wile, to aid handling.
Race Director
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 15,960
Likes: 21
From: West Norriton PA
St. Jude Donor '08
Let me clarify....I did burn out the left front upper bushings. Then I saw the light. I was wrong, I do not recommend burning, for all the
reasons mentioned above. Do not burn them out.
There are several choices to remove the bushings. (that I see, could be more)
1. Take to a shop and have them pressed out.
2. Use a ball-joint "separator" tool.
3. Use a ball-joint remover tool (as illustrated above)
I have used the type of tool (illustrated above) to remove ball joints. It works well but the work must be anchored in a vice.
The tool I used the ball joint separator could be used with out a vise (the way I did it) and I believe could be used with out disconnecting the control arm form the spindle.
The rear shock absorber bushing was mentioned above. I kept looking at it wondering why the kit did not include a replacement urethane bushing for it. Does any one have an opinion about it. Is replacing it worth wile, to aid handling.
reasons mentioned above. Do not burn them out.
There are several choices to remove the bushings. (that I see, could be more)
1. Take to a shop and have them pressed out.
2. Use a ball-joint "separator" tool.
3. Use a ball-joint remover tool (as illustrated above)
I have used the type of tool (illustrated above) to remove ball joints. It works well but the work must be anchored in a vice.
The tool I used the ball joint separator could be used with out a vise (the way I did it) and I believe could be used with out disconnecting the control arm form the spindle.
The rear shock absorber bushing was mentioned above. I kept looking at it wondering why the kit did not include a replacement urethane bushing for it. Does any one have an opinion about it. Is replacing it worth wile, to aid handling.
If you want to put in poly shock bushings give Aaron a call over at Pfadt as he sells them. He also has a Poly Bushing set.
Got to see them when I was in Carlisle this year.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 468
Likes: 15
From: Jupiter FL
Well it was going to smoothly, I just ran into a snag. I re-installed all the control arms. I noticed the left rear, lower ball joint boot has a tear.
I put some silicone sealer on it and was going to bolt everything back when I thought, I've come this far, so I will do it right and replace the ball joint. Called the dealer who said the ball joint is not sold individually, only with the control arm for $230.
I called NAPA who said they did not have a listing for the part.
So, help is there a source for this ball joint alone with out replacing the entire control arm?
I put some silicone sealer on it and was going to bolt everything back when I thought, I've come this far, so I will do it right and replace the ball joint. Called the dealer who said the ball joint is not sold individually, only with the control arm for $230.
I called NAPA who said they did not have a listing for the part.
So, help is there a source for this ball joint alone with out replacing the entire control arm?
Race Director
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 15,960
Likes: 21
From: West Norriton PA
St. Jude Donor '08
Well it was going to smoothly, I just ran into a snag. I re-installed all the control arms. I noticed the left rear, lower ball joint boot has a tear.
I put some silicone sealer on it and was going to bolt everything back when I thought, I've come this far, so I will do it right and replace the ball joint. Called the dealer who said the ball joint is not sold individually, only with the control arm for $230.
I called NAPA who said they did not have a listing for the part.
So, help is there a source for this ball joint alone with out replacing the entire control arm?
I put some silicone sealer on it and was going to bolt everything back when I thought, I've come this far, so I will do it right and replace the ball joint. Called the dealer who said the ball joint is not sold individually, only with the control arm for $230.
I called NAPA who said they did not have a listing for the part.
So, help is there a source for this ball joint alone with out replacing the entire control arm?
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 468
Likes: 15
From: Jupiter FL
.
Thanks for the lead. I went to the Rockauto site, it list only one rear ball joint, a MOOG for $81.00 one part number for front and rear.
They also list a Spicer front only that is $60.00.
So I am thinking the front and rear must be the same. So why spend 80.00 when I can spend $60.00. Or I could go to NAPA and get there front ball joint.
I tried to compare my front to rear. The bolts size is the same the diameter is the same, so do you think it is the same???
There must be a reason (beyond greed) that GM doesn't want you to replace the lower rear ball joint, or am I just being naive.
Has anyone on this forum replaced the rear lower ball-joint? If so any problems?
They also list a Spicer front only that is $60.00.
So I am thinking the front and rear must be the same. So why spend 80.00 when I can spend $60.00. Or I could go to NAPA and get there front ball joint.
I tried to compare my front to rear. The bolts size is the same the diameter is the same, so do you think it is the same???
There must be a reason (beyond greed) that GM doesn't want you to replace the lower rear ball joint, or am I just being naive.
Has anyone on this forum replaced the rear lower ball-joint? If so any problems?
Team Owner
Joined: May 1999
Posts: 34,551
Likes: 505
From: Auburn Hills MI
Ask in the road racing section...there is a boot you can use to replace it. I can't find my receipt I ordered a few. They are for C4's but work fine on a C5.
I think it may even be a sticky at the top.
I'd guess those are C4 joints anyways, not C5 since its in integral to the control arm.
I think it may even be a sticky at the top.
I'd guess those are C4 joints anyways, not C5 since its in integral to the control arm.
Race Director
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 15,960
Likes: 21
From: West Norriton PA
St. Jude Donor '08
Thanks for the lead. I went to the Rockauto site, it list only one rear ball joint, a MOOG for $81.00 one part number for front and rear.
They also list a Spicer front only that is $60.00.
So I am thinking the front and rear must be the same. So why spend 80.00 when I can spend $60.00. Or I could go to NAPA and get there front ball joint.
I tried to compare my front to rear. The bolts size is the same the diameter is the same, so do you think it is the same???
There must be a reason (beyond greed) that GM doesn't want you to replace the lower rear ball joint, or am I just being naive.
Has anyone on this forum replaced the rear lower ball-joint? If so any problems?
They also list a Spicer front only that is $60.00.
So I am thinking the front and rear must be the same. So why spend 80.00 when I can spend $60.00. Or I could go to NAPA and get there front ball joint.
I tried to compare my front to rear. The bolts size is the same the diameter is the same, so do you think it is the same???
There must be a reason (beyond greed) that GM doesn't want you to replace the lower rear ball joint, or am I just being naive.
Has anyone on this forum replaced the rear lower ball-joint? If so any problems?
The lower ball joints on the front and rear are the same.
So I presume the uppers are the same too. I replaced my lowers and will be replacing my uppers once the car gets back from the body shop.
The Moog's are nice but I hear the Spicers are better. You'll need a ball joint press to get the job done and a large rachet wrench to crank them off and on.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 468
Likes: 15
From: Jupiter FL
Ask in the road racing section...there is a boot you can use to replace it. I can't find my receipt I ordered a few. They are for C4's but work fine on a C5.
I think it may even be a sticky at the top.
I'd guess those are C4 joints anyways, not C5 since its in integral to the control arm.
I think it may even be a sticky at the top.
I'd guess those are C4 joints anyways, not C5 since its in integral to the control arm.
Went to the road racing section and read thought a 12 page post. I could not find the post you refereed to. So I did some goggle searching. I found a few on ebay. They only offer them for a C-4, in fact the only boots/hood I could find anywhere were for a C-4.
The boots will be an easy way out, so I am going to give them a try.
Are they a good fit?