When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I just bought a Motive Products Power Bleeder with the GM attachment. It attached to the master cylinder nicely, but would not hold more than 9.5psi without leaking from the connection point to the master cylinder. I tried all kinds of ways to reseat, clean and otherwise attempt to get it to hold to 15psi, but it would always leak.
Has anyone else had this problem? What solution did you come up with?
Careful with the pressure - I have been using my Motive Power Bleeder on our Volvo and Toyotas for 5 years plus. I never pump up more than about 10-11 PSI.
Unless there is something about our Corvette system that requires 15 PSI- IMO I would keep it around 10 PSI.
Separately - the Motive cap is a specific GM fit right? Why not call Motive perhaps theres a gasket they forgot to include- or they can send a second one to double up and better hold the pressure. In a pinch - ur zip tie work around was a good solution.
Good you pointed it out- will remind me to keep a towel wrapped around the connection and master cylinder to prevent brake fluid spray onto painted surfaces
We tried several solutions before we successfully drilled a hole in the center of a rubber hockey puck. Throw a barbed fitting on one side and attach that to your powerbleeder (we used an air powered A/C vacuum device from harbor freight for $15). Then just lay the puck on top of the master and it will draw a vacuum perfectly. One size fits all...will work on brakes and clutches.
I thought mine did not fit. The cap is a very tight fit. If you turn it all the way with some force you will feel it lock in. I also used it on a truck and it was not as tight.
but would not hold more than 9.5psi without leaking from the connection point to the master cylinder. I tried all kinds of ways to reseat, clean and otherwise attempt to get it to hold to 15psi, but it would always leak.
Wow! I've never gone over 5 psi with mine -- all you need is a little pressure to urge the fluid through the lines. I'd be worried about lifting the plastic reservoir off of the metal master cylinder body at 15 psi!
This is what I have, it is the specific GM tool for this job and can be purchased from Kent-Moore.
I just ordered mine from Kent-Moore. $79.00 plus shipping, cheap. lol
It's always best to have the right tool, and since I'll be using this regularly it's a no-brainer. Thanks for the info.
Wow! I've never gone over 5 psi with mine -- all you need is a little pressure to urge the fluid through the lines. I'd be worried about lifting the plastic reservoir off of the metal master cylinder body at 15 psi!
You would think that is the case as I did, but I've learned you need at least 15psi, preferably 20psi to purge the ABS and bleed it without a Tech 2.
You would think that is the case as I did, but I've learned you need at least 15psi, preferably 20psi to purge the ABS and bleed it without a Tech 2.
If you’re going to use that much pressure, I would strongly advise that you wrap at least a couple of zip ties around the reservoir and main body to prevent the plastic reservoir from blowing off.
If you’re going to use that much pressure, I would strongly advise that you wrap at least a couple of zip ties around the reservoir and main body to prevent the plastic reservoir from blowing off.
Good suggestion. I always keep a supply on hand. Kinda like shop towels and duct tape.
We tried several solutions before we successfully drilled a hole in the center of a rubber hockey puck. Throw a barbed fitting on one side and attach that to your powerbleeder (we used an air powered A/C vacuum device from harbor freight for $15). Then just lay the puck on top of the master and it will draw a vacuum perfectly. One size fits all...will work on brakes and clutches.
We are talking about pressure, not vacuum...you need something that locks tightly to the master cylinder if you are going to hold 15psi in order to get the ABS bleed.
I thought mine did not fit. The cap is a very tight fit. If you turn it all the way with some force you will feel it lock in. I also used it on a truck and it was not as tight.
I turned it and did feel it lock, but it still would not hold 10psi.
We are talking about pressure, not vacuum...you need something that locks tightly to the master cylinder if you are going to hold 15psi in order to get the ABS bleed.
You got me, I though you were referring to the clutch master which needs a vacuum applied to it. As far as the brake master, I can see pressure at the master helping bleeding. Why aren't people using speedbleeders?
Additionally, I have had great luck with a vacuum (same device) on the bleeder valves at each caliper. Vacuum is a lot safer (no chance of explosion) and I've had great luck with it. 20+ psi on the plastic master tank?
You got me, I though you were referring to the clutch master which needs a vacuum applied to it. As far as the brake master, I can see pressure at the master helping bleeding. Why aren't people using speedbleeders?
Additionally, I have had great luck with a vacuum (same device) on the bleeder valves at each caliper. Vacuum is a lot safer (no chance of explosion) and I've had great luck with it. 20+ psi on the plastic master tank?
Not 20+, 15-20psi. I've been told that you need that much pressure to purge the ABS.