I am about to install a new clutch in my '99. Any sugestions would be welcome. I will probably use a Mcleod Dual disc unit. Any experience or guidence is appreciated.

Thanks,
Mickey

 

On the Mcleod Twin disc it is an awsome clutch. But when installing check with a set of feeler guages between the discs. You should only have .020 to .025 clearance, if there is more than that you need to remove some shims. If you have to much clearance you will not be able to disengage the clutch and the problem is it will be very hard to get into 1st and reverse, or you wont get in those gears at all without grinding. We did one on a 2000 Trans Am and ended up taking it back out and removing .030 worth of shims. Now it works great!

 

On the C5, getting their is most of the battle. Make sure you have the proper lift, trans jacks, and tools to properly support and lower the rear subrame. Also, remember that you have to slide it back a foot or so once you get it down, so have a couple of helpers. We found that using ratcheting straps to help support and align the drivetrain helps.

 

I'm about to get started on the removal, I'll let you know how it goes....... I've had this car five days and already installing a clutch......damn!!!!!!

Mickey

 

Given what you're doing, you probably already know this. But since it's a crucial step, I'll err on the side of passing it on anyway.

Read the shop manual passages dealing with the clutch and the flywheel There is a passage on "flywheel removal" that must be followed precisely.

The engine is externally balanced by weight pins in certain holes on the flywheel. Failure to preserve the balance will result in vibration that's quite difficult to cure. This means you must scribe the position of the flywheel on the crank to mark their correct relative alignment.

The new flywheel must go on in the same exact orientation as the old (the scribe mark ensures this) and new weight pins of the correct size must be installed in the new flywheel in the same holes as on the old flywheel.

Finally, torque everything to spec and use the "three-step process" where called for in the shop manual.

If you don't follow the shop manual precisely, it is very likely that you will wind up with bad vibrations afterwards. And please note that the manual is poorly organized. You must seek out ALL the references to the clutch and the flywheel, particularly critical are the "flywheel removal" pages.

My dealer screwed up an unnecessary clutch install on my car. The tech failed to scribe the flywheel-crank alignment and didn't transfer the new balance pins to the correct holes on the new flywheel. The resulting vibration from my then unbalanced engine would knock your fillings out. The cure involved three additional clutch installs and finally a two day visit by two Corvette field engineers who used specialized equipment to rebalance the engine. It's fine now but this sidelined my car for about 60 days and was a most unpleasant experience.

Bottom line is read the shop manual thoroughly and follow the steps precisely.

Good luck and let us know how it goes.

Ranger


[Modified by Ranger, 7:56 AM 12/4/2001]

 

Good advice, Ranger. That heads up could save someone a world of grief. :yesnod:

Good luck.
Mark

 

good tips on the manual and I'll add this; make sure you match the balance condition of the original unit. Yes, it is supposed to be neutral but that didn't stop GM from inserting some "tuning" weigts. Just take the extra time to have a competent balancing shop do the job.

 

Thanks for all the input. I got started this morning, and man does alot of shi* have to be removed to get to the clutch. I have the support beam and carrier completely unbolted and supported by a jack. They are almost ready to be lowered. I need to take the shifter **** off, I cant remember how to get the key out of the top of the ****. How does it come out? Aslo the line going to the throwout bearing, should it be removed from the underside right where it goes into the bellhousing or on the top side near the master cylinder? I also need to get a service manual, where can I get one quick? It looks like I will have to take some allen bolts out of the manifolds leading away from the turbos, this looks like it will be challenging. I believe these manifolds will be in the way of droping the bellhousing. I hope the engine will drop down a bit and give me some room. As far as I know this clutch has been in for about 10K. How long should I expect a Mcleod unit to last? I don't plan on doing any drag racing, just some spirited street driving.

Thanks again and I will continue the removal tommorrow.

 

Call Bob, parts manager at Flichtner Chev in Laurel, Montana.

Here is a link and an extract:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=189549

"Please call or email Bob for parts and service here:
Phone: 406-628-4618, Fax: 406-628-2025
Email: corvetteparts@hotmail.com"

"1999 C5 Service Manuals $ 135.00 $ 109.95." First price is list, second is Forum member price.

If the manual is in stock, Bob can overnight it to you. It weights 14 pounds, so shipping isn't cheap. But the manual is priceless compared to the problems you might avoid.

Ranger

 

Thanks Ranger, you have been a big help. :)

 

Happy to help, LANJET.

Ranger

 

LANJET,

Cover the leather on the shift ****, after prying out the little shift pattern logo and use 2 flat screw drivers to pry up on the pin.

On the clutch hydraulic line line......I THINK there is a quick coupling in the line.

Good luck.
Mark

 

MDT is correct...there is a QD on the clutch line near the bellhousing. GM has a tool and it is similar to the tools used on FI hoses.

 

yah, dont drop the tranny on your little toe!!

 

Are you installing an adjustable master? I used a McLeod clutch with the shims once. Worked great since the right shim was installed. However, as the clutch wears you will need to re-shim it! But an adj. master may save you all that work again!

Joel

 

i removed the transaxle today. I scotched on top of a 4 wheel roller platform, let the car down so the transaxle would rest on the platform. Then I raised the lift to seperate the car from the transaxl. Everything cam apart without to much of a hassle. Now I am trying to get the allen bolts out of the turbo manifolds. I am going to have to locate an allen that is about 8in. long. That will get all of the allen bolts except one, and I'm still not sure how to get to that one.
This morning i spoke to Tim at LPE and ask him what clutch I should go back with. I thought he would say Mcleod, but he says they have developed their own clutch that is superior to the Mcleod. It is a single disc design, it uses the stock master cylinder and slave/TO bearing. The clutch effort is supposed to be just like stock. Since I have an AP master and slave/TO, I will have to replace them with the stock units. Does any one know anything about the LPE clutch? I figured if they wattanty these cars for two years/24K, they would use the best avaliable clutch. Although the clutch is probably not covered. Anyway,I went ahead and ordered the clutch. It was 1100.00. I think that is in line with the Mcleod.
I also spoke with Ken at Flitchner Chevrolet. He was a pleasure to deal with. He had the service manual in stock and is going to send the Master, slave/TO also. They give dealer whosale prices to forum members and were very helpful.
When the parts arrive, I'll get started and let you know how it goes.

 

Like to see some pics of the clutch assembly.

Thanks

 

I received the clutch form LPE today, problem is my service manual won't arrive until tommorrow afternoon. When removing the bellhousing, must the clutch be unbolted in order to remove it? I don't think you can remove the bellhousing first and then the clutch. If any knows for sure please post.

 

My dealer screwed up an unnecessary clutch install on my car. The tech failed to scribe the flywheel-crank alignment and didn't transfer the new balance pins to the correct holes on the new flywheel. The resulting vibration from my then unbalanced engine would knock your fillings out. The cure involved three additional clutch installs and finally a two day visit by two Corvette field engineers who used specialized equipment to rebalance the engine. It's fine now but this sidelined my car for about 60 days and was a most unpleasant experience.

Bottom line is read the shop manual thoroughly and follow the steps precisely.

Good luck and let us know how it goes.

Ranger

Hello, you mentioned having two Corvette field engineers help you regain the external balance of your engine. I had a Saleen create motor installed in an 2008 Mustang GT and have a vibration issue in the 2500 rpm range in all 5-gears. The motor shipped just before their demise and without a build sheet. So I'm flying in the dark on trying to know how to add external balance now that it's in the car. I added McLeod aluminum flywheel and RST clutch setup. I wonder if the engineers could direct me to a solution?


[Modified by Ranger, 7:56 AM 12/4/2001][/QUOTE]

 

Ridgepman, you know you're posting to a 10 year old thread don't you??????



Oh... I forgot.... This is the "Corvette Forum", not the rustang forum.