Installing Bilstein Sport Shocks, Any Tricks?
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 1,660
Likes: 9
From: Charlotte, NC
Installing Bilstein Sport Shocks, Any Tricks?
I'm using McRat's install page (http://fuzzydiceracing.com/test.htm) which looks pretty good.
Do the Bilsteins have any tricks or nuances to installing them?? I read something about removing the windshield washer resevoir? I don't have any directions for that so hopefully I won't have too.
I'm not very mechanically inclined, but I can follow directions pretty well.
Thanks!
Do the Bilsteins have any tricks or nuances to installing them?? I read something about removing the windshield washer resevoir? I don't have any directions for that so hopefully I won't have too.
I'm not very mechanically inclined, but I can follow directions pretty well.
Thanks!
Last edited by FASST LN; Feb 1, 2008 at 02:22 PM.
Racer
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 485
Likes: 4
From: Houston TX
LOL... I think the 6-pack of Corona is the trick to getting them installed properly. Well, at least without frustration. Sorry I can't add anything to your post technically, but I'm interested in this as well. Thanks for the URL.
Racer
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 470
Likes: 8
From: Northwest Washington
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 793
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From: Milwaukee & Long Beach WI & CA
Don't forget to mention corvetteforum for a 10% discount when ordering.
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 187
Likes: 0
From: Renton,Kennydale area WA
I just installed a set of HD bilsteins last weekend. Not bad at all. The link you listed above will work 98% of the way. If you notice, he is installing a set of C5 Z06 shocks. The top mounting procedure is slightly different since the bilsteins are installed with a Torx 40 (top mount). This makes it a little more challenging. For the fronts, you will need to loosen and move both the coolant reservoir and the washer fluid reservoir. That was the only way I was able to torque the top bolt down. Take your time and a six pack of beer definitely helps
Racer
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 497
Likes: 0
From: Monrovia California
on the rears I herd that you need to replace the lower bolt & nut. I belief they are torked to 162 ft lbs and the stocks were one time use only. other members state they broke the stock ones when rteinstalling them. I did the sports also and I love the ride firm but not harsh I went threw the fenderwell to get at the top bolt on the fronts. I dont recomend the stock bushings they are already old and worne the bilsteins are desighned for the bushings they come with. the new shocks will kill the old bushings faster than you think..just my .02c worth
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 854
Likes: 70
From: Byrnes Mill MO
I broke one of the rear shock bolts at 130lbs. Took a week to get new ones from the dealer.
When you are finished the car will set higher than before. It will settle back to the old stance after a short drive.
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 187
Likes: 0
From: Renton,Kennydale area WA
on the rears I herd that you need to replace the lower bolt & nut. I belief they are torked to 162 ft lbs and the stocks were one time use only. other members state they broke the stock ones when rteinstalling them. I did the sports also and I love the ride firm but not harsh I went threw the fenderwell to get at the top bolt on the fronts. I dont recomend the stock bushings they are already old and worne the bilsteins are desighned for the bushings they come with. the new shocks will kill the old bushings faster than you think..just my .02c worth
BTW I did not replace my stock rear lower bolt. I was able to reuse it and torque it down to about 150lbs.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 1,660
Likes: 9
From: Charlotte, NC
I just intalled the rear shocks. I was a bit confused by their bushing setup, but I figured it out by the second shock. I had remove the first shock, correct the bushings, and reinstall. I also installed the rear ZO6 spring and added some differential slip additive (rear has been groaning through tight parking deck turns).
Unbelievably, I took the car for a quick spin around the neighborhood and everything seems fine. Not even a squeak.
Now I've just got to do the fronts...which is going to be a bear because I have to install the front ZO6 spring too.
Cheers!
Unbelievably, I took the car for a quick spin around the neighborhood and everything seems fine. Not even a squeak.
Now I've just got to do the fronts...which is going to be a bear because I have to install the front ZO6 spring too.
Cheers!
Racer
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 377
Likes: 6
From: North West, Georgia
Wish id caught you sooner.
The only thing i wish id done was added a very tiny amount of white lithum grease to the bushings (quick shot from a spray can).
They squeaked for months til they got settled in. When it cold i still get a few here and there..
Replaced mine all the way around. One of the better mods i made
The only thing i wish id done was added a very tiny amount of white lithum grease to the bushings (quick shot from a spray can).
They squeaked for months til they got settled in. When it cold i still get a few here and there..
Replaced mine all the way around. One of the better mods i made
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 9,420
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From: Southern New Jersey, The wet part at the bottom
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10
I did the same thing. The one thing that made the install easier was to use lamp cord (or equivalent) to hold the new shocks compressed (hope you're a heavy guy 'cause this takes a bit of work) while you position them in their new home. I didn't lose any fluids from the overflow or washer tanks, just moved them toward the engine enough to get the allen wrench and torqx tool in place. And as mentioned white grease.
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,078
Likes: 5
From: Denver, North Carolina
Maybe some of the Bilstien sports are different. Mine did not have a 40 torx top. They are 3/16" allen. On the front I used a 3/16" allen bit from inside the wheel well and held it with needle nose vise grips and tightened the 17mm nut with an open end wrench. I used zip ties to hold the shocks compressed for getting them into position. The rear bolts came out easily and retorqed just fine. I also used the supplied Bilstien bushings with no problem. I don't know why you would not or could not use them. Didn't grease them either and they don't squeak.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 1,660
Likes: 9
From: Charlotte, NC
Thanks for all the replies guys.
My situation was a bit different since I was also installing ZO6 springs, thus I had the upper part of the A-arm (I think that is the correct name) unbolted so I didn't have any compression issues with the new shocks. I was able to bolt them in up top, using an allen wrench and open ended wrench. The new Bilsteins were easier to install than removing the old stock shocks....primarily because I could use an allen wrench on the Bilsteins instead of a tiny (don't know the size) open-ended wrench on the stock piece. I then used a jack to lift the bottom of the A-arm into place to align the bottom of the shock with the bolts that secure it into place.
It took some pressure to align the bottom holes with the shock but it worked out.
One thing: I had to use a large open-ended wrench to twist the bottom of the Bilstein shock (the part with the two holes for the bolts to pass through) so it would be slanted like the stock pieces. It would have been an bear to have attempted to install them as is.
My situation was a bit different since I was also installing ZO6 springs, thus I had the upper part of the A-arm (I think that is the correct name) unbolted so I didn't have any compression issues with the new shocks. I was able to bolt them in up top, using an allen wrench and open ended wrench. The new Bilsteins were easier to install than removing the old stock shocks....primarily because I could use an allen wrench on the Bilsteins instead of a tiny (don't know the size) open-ended wrench on the stock piece. I then used a jack to lift the bottom of the A-arm into place to align the bottom of the shock with the bolts that secure it into place.
It took some pressure to align the bottom holes with the shock but it worked out.
One thing: I had to use a large open-ended wrench to twist the bottom of the Bilstein shock (the part with the two holes for the bolts to pass through) so it would be slanted like the stock pieces. It would have been an bear to have attempted to install them as is.
Last edited by FASST LN; Feb 4, 2008 at 10:56 AM.
