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I just bought a 2004, and my floor jack will not fit under the front. been looking in magazines and have seen lower profile jacks and car ramps. What is the best solution? Should I buy a newer jack or get some type of ramps?? Please help my oil needs cahnged.
many of us drive onto a piece of 2x10 (or 12) to get the extra height and use the floor jacks we have.
some with higher jacks nail or screw 2 together after beveling the front edge to give 4" if they have a very high jack
I just have the cheap $45 harbor freight flloor jack and I never have a problem getting the jack under a lowered C5 -
Sometimes I have to slightly lift up on the body to raise the car up in the springs a tiny bit - but again, have done this many many times and I do not use any boards or special low-profile jack etc.
In this picture, you can see my "vette board" and the jack I use, and the front end is up on rhino-ramps.
Note that I have removed the white metal cup from the end of the jack to lower the height of the jack's contact point.
What you see above is probably the cheapest way to get going, the rhino ramps were about $25 at autozone when I bought em.
I would think it would be more expensive to make your own ramps than just buying these - but that is just my opinion.
COSTCO has a large all aluminum "racing" trolley jack with a low profile. It weighs about 50# compared to a similar steel jack of substantial more weight.
The wood ramps might be the easiest or cheapest.
I prefer a four post lift.
I haven't had a chance to use it yet as I need to grab a friend to help me lift it out of the trunk. It's 123 pounds but it can reach under the front to the crossmember without needing to put the car up on ramps.
The AC Hydraulics DK13HLQ can also do that, but it cost over $550. I got the ATD 7325 from amazon for $220 shipped. I got free 2nd day air by signing up for a free trial membership in their Prime program. The ATD 7325 is same jack as the Omega 29023. I was going to order the Omega from northern tools until I found out that despite what their web site says, northern tools won't give you free shipping on it. In fact, they qouted me $100 for freight shipping. I can only imagine how much it cost amazon to ship a 120 lbs jack 2nd day UPS air, but they did it!
Why buy a super expensive low profile lift? I bought some rhino ramps for $50 . I place a piece of 2 x 12 board in front of each ramp so it dosen't scrape and drive on. I installed my vararam with the ramps only. If I want it higher I use a jacking pad made from a 2 x 6. I have a length of board with a shorter length attached on each side for the 2 jacking points on the front suspension. I place my old Autzone jack in the middle and Jack the car up, then I place jack stands at each end where the jacking points are. It is not a great idea to place jack stands under the suspension jacking points with no pad (in my case a pad is a length of 2 x 6) because you could potentially crack one of the ribs. Once a crack starts, they tend to continue to grow. I developed this technique from online searchs. If you would like specifics of the homemade jacking pad, I can send them to you. The jacking puck areas on the side of the car are another story, I personally do not use these.
I've used Rhino ramps and a cheap jack for years and it works just fine. But for me, if I want to jack the car up in my garage and be able to close the door, using the ramps requires a big production as my garage isn't very deep. At $220, it's well worth it for the time savings. Also, all the cheap jacks I've seen have a pretty low maximum lift. The ATD/Omega goes from 2.5" to 20"
COSTCO has a large all aluminum "racing" trolley jack with a low profile. It weighs about 50# compared to a similar steel jack of substantial more weight.
The wood ramps might be the easiest or cheapest.
I prefer a four post lift.
I just bought this jack, will lift 3 tons, yeah weights about 50 lbs, feels pretty solid and looks like it will last a while. It will fit under the jacking pucks and under the front and rear cross members with out driving up on blocks. Sorry I don't remember the model off hand, cost about $130.
From: Marlton. Increasing performance one speeding ticket at a time! NJ
I have a 3 ton SUV jack that is certainly too high to lift the vette at the jacking points.
But, if you lift the air dam in the front, it fits quite nicely (with a piece of wood between) under the front cradle. The rear goes right in under the cradle. Exactly as mqqn's picture shows.
So before you think you need another jack, try that.
I have a standard 2.5-3 ton jack. I just take the pad on the jack out of the jack. It will then fit directly on the frame without hitting the body panel. No need for pucks, wood, fancy jack or anything. Works great.
At home I use a lift. At the track I use a small $20 Sears 1.5 ton jack.
Just put it under the front shipping slot on either side with a lift puck inserted in the slot. From that point I can jack the whole side of the car. If the car has the 17 inch race wheels with 315s mounted then I drive up on a couple of short 2x6s I have and then jack it. If I am going to get under the car or do something besides change tires or brake pads I put jackstands under the front or rear cradles or both. Been doing this for 11 years with no problems.
My $0.2
There is a Duralast jack for sport cars and it has a 3000 lbs lifting capacity.
My FRC is on lovered bolts and it just fits perfectly under with pucks.
Price was something like $95.00 or less. It lifts up to approximately 40". Not enough to change cat backs if you have TI's but otherwise it is perfect.
Anyhow I'm perfectly happy with it and think that it is worth of $$s
once i drove onto three 2x4s high of planks, then realized i didn't even need a jack, i layed on my back and tightly slid under the car to perform an oil change... don't think I'll do it that way again though, it was pretty tight.