Ok, I really wanna do the dry shot. One less solenoid to fail which is much better reassurance for me :D. Ok, here's what I want to do:
10 lb bottle
Bottle warmer (which brand, NX, NOS, TNT?)
BPP WOT Switch
Single Fogger
100 shot Jet
Window Switch 3K-6K(which one)
Blow off tube
Nitrous Solenoid (NOS, NX or TNT solenoid, I want the most RELIABLE and fail safe one that can be had)
TR6's (What Gap for 100 shot)
SVO 30lb Injectors
NX Switch Plate
How long of a nitrous line is needed? Thanks.
BTW, any install pics are GREATLY appreciated. Also, I plan to follow this wiring schematic, should I be fine with this? http://www.wam.umd.edu/~krzew/n2.jpg


[Modified by C5Noir, 11:28 PM 12/2/2001]

 

For dry systems I like the NOS kit - they make good solenoids and warmers. You may want to also get a remote bottle opener and don't forger the Nitrous pressure guage and optionally a fuel pressure safety switch. I like the MSD window switches too. For a 100 shot I would gap the TR6's at 42.

-Jeremy

 

Hey Levi- Long time no talk :lol:

I've got 5 10 lb. bottles. 3 are NOS, 1 is a NX and also 1 Compucar. They all work the same. If you got the money there is a carbon fiber bottle available that is very light.
The best/safest bottle warmer is the one with the automatic thermostat. I think it's the one from NX?
The BPP WOT switch is great and is wired into the TPS. Easier to install than the basic NOS WOT switch.
TNT is supposed to have the best designed fogger. I am happy with my NOS version, though.
I don't have any experience with a window switch.
I don't have any experience with a blow off tube. Makes changing bottles too difficult anyway :lol:
The Cheater solenoid from NOS is my favorite. It is very large and durable.
TR6 plugs work best with nitrous at the original gap of .035. I've tried to up the gap and burnt an electrode off at .040.
I have basic switches for my system and warmer. The NX plate does look nice, though.
I believe I have a 12 ft. main line. It is one of the longer 4AN lines available from NOS. Also a short 3 ft. line from the bottle to the filter and another from the solenoid to the fogger.
That wiring diagram looks good to me. It's not how I have mine wired but it makes sense.

You will find that putting the kit together is very enjoyable. You will probably end up with a kit that is unlike anyone elses in some manner. I applaud you in putting a custom kit together. BTW, I disagree with the idea of getting a remote opener. They are notorious for stripping bottle valves around here. Anyone have good/reliable results with one?

Thanks

 

I changed 50+ bottles with my last one, never had a problem. More of a convenience feature I guess...

I'm surprised how small of a gap you're running for only a 100 shot.

 

That's good to hear. I have never owned a remote opener so all of my info comes secondhand. Since my FRC is not my daily driver I always have the bottle open when driving anyway.

Yeah, I was suprised that I couldn't gap the plugs up that much. I had ok results at .038 but no gain over .035 so I decided to leave them there.

 

How much does one of these bad boys run?
How do I get ahold of the TNT fogger?
Is the Blow Off Tube even necessary?
Any failures with any of the solenoids?

Will try that gap!
Are you 100% on the length?
Is a filter necessary on "dry" kit?
SWEET! :D

You will find that putting the kit together is very enjoyable. You will probably end up with a kit that is unlike anyone elses in some manner. I applaud you in putting a custom kit together. BTW, I disagree with the idea of getting a remote opener. They are notorious for stripping bottle valves around here. Anyone have good/reliable results with one?

Thanks[/QUOTE]

 

The thermostat controlled bottle heater sells for around $200. I went with the basic Compucar $80 unit that does not have a thermostat and it is a constant concern...whether I've turned it off or not etc...

I'd contact TNT directly about any of their products. I'm sure one of the supporting vendors can help as well.

A blow off tube is a safety feature. In case the bottle warmer malfunctions and/or the bottle is full and gets too hot it will pop off the safety valve. With the blow off tube instsalled correctly all of the nitrous will wxit out of the car instead of inside of it.

The only solenoids to stay clear of are Compucar units. They are very bad. Both NX and TNT pride themselves on quality components, I just haven't ever used them before.

I just checked my records but can't find anything on the main line length. I know it weas atleast 12 ft. though. BTW, I have a 6 ft. line from the bottle to the filter. Also, you will probably end up with different line lengths anyway because you might route them differently.

YES!!! You must have a filter. If you don't use one you greatly increase the risk getting trash into the solenoid which will lock it up. I know firsthand, this happened to me back in the 80's to my Mustang. It was not pretty.

:cheers:

 

So is it NX or TNT that sell the Thermostatically controlled Bottle Warmers?

Thanks :smash:


Makes perfect sense :D


Great heads up, thanks. Do I need any special solenoid for the spray? In other words, what type of solenoid do I request from NX or TNT, just a A4N type?

I'm confused about your line. Do you have 12 ft. total of main line or just one 12ft line? I ask this because you mention you have a 6ft. line from the bottle to the filter. Doesn't the filter connect into the input side of the solenoid with the main line attached to it?

Main line
(Bottle)========= |Filter| >INPUT[Solenoid]OUTPUT ======(Fogger >

Correct?

Again, great heads up :D, thanks again.

BTW, do you think it's necessary to have SVO 30 #/hr injectors? I should be able to tune it pretty well with stock injectors via MAFT, right? Thanks.

:cheers: [/QUOTE]


[Modified by C5Noir, 1:00 AM 12/3/2001]

 

I really can't say with confidence which manufaturer makes the good bottle heater. Where's MattG when we need him. I'd contact him at Exit28 Motorsports for further info about this item.

Solenoid selection? I would just get the biggest solenoid you can. All of the good manufacturers make a large solenoid that will work with 4AN lines.

Sorry. I have been a little vague about my line setup. I'll try to be more clear:
______6 ft line_____12 ft "main" line____________6 ft line
(Bottle)========= |Filter| >INPUT[Solenoid]OUTPUT ======(Fogger >
Again, there is no standard way to run the lines. Most say that running them outside the cabin is the best/safest way. I disagree and run mine inside and through the firewall next to the fusebox in the passenger footwell. I've also got the solenoid in a strange place which makes it necessary to have a really long main line. BTW, I have my filter mounted near to the passenger seat down by the seatbelt retract mechanism.

It is not neccessary to have larger injectors. I have the stock '99 puny injectors and never get any knock retard on my autotap. It is a good idea to do so if you are concerned at all though because the stock injectors will be around 100% duty cycle at 450 Rwhp. This is asking a lot from them. Since you DO have a MAFT you could get them dialed in real well if you decide to add them. Get in touch with kewlbrz for A/F tuning advice. His website is http://www.vetteguru.com/. Lots of great info there.

:cheers:


[Modified by C5Cemo, 1:31 AM 12/3/2001]

 

NX bottle heater is pressure controlled.
I have had no problems with NX bottle opener and feel its a must. You only have to open bottle when action comes your way:)
You may also want to add purge solenoid.
You may want to contact Matt, he sells some great complete package kits.
In this picture you can see N20 filter,NX bottle heater, remote bottle opener and blow off tube.





[Modified by jetskifast, 2:13 AM 12/3/2001]

 

i have the complete NX setup that i installed in my car last spring. here's my .02 worth:
1. definitely have a point-of-use filter. install it just before the nitrous solenoid to ensure the whole line is "filtered". i have run about 50-15lb bottles of nitrous through my car since my install (yes, i use mine a LOT) and have cleaned the VERY DIRTY filter about 4 times already.
2. definitely use a window switch. i have the MSD. i use the following schedule: 3000 for 50hp jets, 3200 for 75hp jets, 3400 for 100hp jets, and so on.
3. i have installed several brand heater blankets with no problems. choose one.
4. TR6 plugs gapped .45 here. no problems for 4k miles (and ~ 10 bottle refills).
5. NX solenoids are very high quality compared to NOS.
6. get the electric bottle opener. a must.
7. i did not like the auto bottle warmer pressure sensor. this only allowed the bottle to heat up to ~1100psig. i like the results and consistancy obtained from higher bottle pressures of ~1300psi.
8. i would not run a dry system in my car. too risky if you ask me. having the insurance of the additional gas mixed in sets my mind at ease + allows for bigger shot. but mostly, it is very difficult to dyno-tune a dry system.

 

I learn more everytime someone asks a NOS question. :yesnod: :seeya

 

Jetskifast- that is a nice pics...explains a lot about add-ons and setup of your kit :yesnod: How long does it take you to get the bottle out for refills?

rwj383- which warmer are you using and don't you think 1300 psi is a little risky? That's a lot of pressure on your solenoid. I am seriously considering looking over my filter after your experiences, thanks.
For debate's sake, why do you think a dry kit is harder to tune? I don't see ot this way. My nitorus dyno numbers are fairly consistent as is the performance on the track. In fact, a dry kit will not fatten up on you when the pressure goes down due to a cold or half empty bottle during consecutive runs. Is ther some way to control fuel pressure through the fuel solenoid or something?

Thanks

 

Jetskifast, in your pic, why are there two nitrous lines coming from the bottle? I thought the filter was placed right at the inlet of the solenoid? Thanks.

 

The large braided line is his blow off tube...very nice!

 

Thanks, C5Cemo! I appreciate your help once again :D. BTW, what is that black tube at the top of the purple piece of the bottle? thanks.

 

hmmm....good question. It looks like a fluid hand pump to me. I don't think it's associated with his nitrous kit...Jetski?

He does have all of the bells and whistles, though. In comparison my storage bin has a bottle with a warmer...that's it. :lol:

 

C5Cemo, what fogger would I ask TNT about? Just a DRY kit fogger? Thanks.

 

For some reason bottle opener motor assembly does look like black tube in this picture?
Takes only a few mins to remove bottle for refill :cool:
Bottle heater pressure sensor, which stays hooked up to N20 bottle manifold during refill. I hooked up with quick disconnect electrical connections.
Rear center cover fits over everything perfect:)
If you do mount your bottle sideways. Make sure and twist bottle at about 35 degree angle like in my picture. To take advantage of bottle N20 siphon tube during acceleration, N20 heads the back of bottle.






[Modified by jetskifast, 12:45 PM 12/3/2001]

 

At what PSI does the bottle blow off valve open to prevent bottle explosion? Also, at what PSI does the bottle warmer shut down at? Thanks.