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It appears replacing the Heads is an easier job than doing the Cam. Is this true? If so, then what are the gains of replacing the stock heads with a set of Stage Twos vs, say, a T-1 Cam shaft replacement?
It appears replacing the Heads is an easier job than doing the Cam. Is this true? If so, then what are the gains of replacing the stock heads with a set of Stage Twos vs, say, a T-1 Cam shaft replacement?
You have it backwards. Replacing the cam is an easier job. (Much less expensive too.) Both give about the same HP. See my sig for the T1 cam HP gains.
No, he was correct, changing the heads on a C5 is easier than the camshaft. You do not have to worry about removing all of the stuff on the front of the engine such as the radiator, steering rack, front engine cover, etc.
However, I still feel if you are going to do just ONE of the TWO, I would go with just the camshaft and throw on an underdrive pulley at the same time.
I agree with MattG. Most people do the cam first. Less expensive parts but more involved when doing this. I have not seen anyone do heads before the cam. I guess there is just a certain order to things. Would be interested in gain of doing just heads with a stock cam though. Post up.
I believe Tom Byrne did JUST heads on his C5 and gained about 20rwhp. That is an expensive 20rwhp in my opinion when 30rwhp could be got for half the price with a cam and install.
I was thinking about the heads as more of a "stealthy" type mod, ei no lopey idle. I think the majority of people are doing to cam first because of cost (cam = $450 vs heads = $1900) but I was curious as to the power gains.
I was thinking about the heads as more of a "stealthy" type mod, ei no lopey idle. I think the majority of people are doing to cam first because of cost (cam = $450 vs heads = $1900) but I was curious as to the power gains.
Depending on the cam chosen you can go plenty stealth. A lot of the cam will be covered up if you keep the stock cats on also. Someone remaining nameless (street racer) has one of our cams and heads packages with TPIS LT headers, stock cats and cat back and unless you are kneeling down behind his car, you would not know there is a cam in there!!! Still made around 428 RWHP!!!
With that, I would definitly go with the cam first. The stock heads are definitly more than the stock cam can handle. A little more labor, but well worth it.
Chris - I have a 98, with the mods listed in my sig and everybody thinks I have a cam (one guy asked if it was a stroker!!) because of the lope from my exhaust at idle - it sounds louder at WOT than any other C5 I have ever heard.....I wonder what it will sound like with the Thunder cam?
No, he was correct, changing the heads on a C5 is easier than the camshaft. You do not have to worry about removing all of the stuff on the front of the engine such as the radiator, steering rack, front engine cover, etc.
However, I still feel if you are going to do just ONE of the TWO, I would go with just the camshaft and throw on an underdrive pulley at the same time.
MTI changed the cam in my 2000 C5 in one day. I had the heads changed on my 97 C5 and that was an all-weekend job (two full days.)
The post above should read stock cats/catback. These together will make the system pretty stealthy! I am not sure why people think you have a cam. The indys alone should not do this?
The Thunder cam will be pretty good and LUMPY!!! You will NOT be stealthy by any means, but you will sould BAD!!! :) :)
Are you asking about heads and cam on my '93??? I don't have a C5 right now. The '93 will be going up for sale very soon and I will be looking into a C5. You will know it when this one is up and running! :)
I was thinking about the heads as more of a "stealthy" type mod, ei no lopey idle. I think the majority of people are doing to cam first because of cost (cam = $450 vs heads = $1900) but I was curious as to the power gains.
It's cost AND performance...a 218ish cam will easily pick up 30 RWHP on stock LS1 heads. 1/2 the price and 33% more power gains.
Man, I am not doing well today!!! I was remembering the cam that you were talking about a week or two ago! I think it was 224/224??? Even on a 114 LSA, that would lope pretty good.
The 220/220 cam on a 114 LSA will probably be pretty descreet.
Sorry for the confusion. The phones have been going crazy today over here. :)
Thunder racing sent me a dyno graph of two stock heads cars with the same mods - one had a thunder 220/220, the other a thunder 224/224. The graph showed that the 220/220 car made 5 more rwhp/rwtq down low and same peak #'s compared to the car with the 224/224 cam. Exactly what I want for my street-driven racer....
I guess the extra duration does not help in a stock headed car.....it just adds driveability and idle problems. Someone here wrote that MTI did tests when they were developing their cams and anything over a 221/221 duration produced no extra power with the stock displacement LS1. I also chose the lower duration because I have to pass smog in Cali......