Yet ANOTHER oil oil pressure problem..PLEASE HELP
Obviously I put everything back together and did the initial start up. 15 PSI oil pressure. On rev up it goes to 30-35 PSI MAX. Car definitly doesnt have any valvetrain noise or knocking what-so-ever. Figured I would change the oil thinking that maybe some coolant ran into the oil pan while the timing cover was off. So now, I have the rear jacked up higher than the front to let all oil drain from the pan, since the plugs on the front. I went with a 20w50 and a new filter just to see. So I start the car up again.
NO OIL PRESSURE NOW... IMMEDIATLY shut the car down after 3-5 seconds. So now I am thinking that all along it was b/c the car was jacked up in the front originally and jacked up in the rear on the second start up after the new oil change. Now I think I have the answer, so I lower the car down all excited. Get all 4 wheels on the ground, start it up, and it jumps to 15-20 PSI within 2 seconds. Not what I wanted to see, but obviously better than the 0 PSI.
What the hell is going on here? When the subframe was dropped down a couple inches, I did jack up on the oil pan to make the pulley clear the power steering rack. Could I have messed up the pickup somehow? The motor was smashed against the 'firewall'(if you wanna call it that..LOL). I checked the pressure sensor behind the intake thinking that maybe it was the problem but its not broke or anything. I am going to put a manual gauge on it tomorrow to find out for sure but in the mean time, Please help me out here. I am going crazy. I am about to pull the damn motor at this point.
Last edited by Venomized03; Mar 18, 2008 at 01:53 PM.
If so, this was not a smart move. You can do two bad things: 1) have oil pickup suck up air and 2) have oil level above crank, which then whips up and aireates the oil.
Last edited by Oldvetter; Mar 14, 2008 at 11:01 PM.
My oil pressure at 180' was 15 idle and 35 max, hence I decided to pull it before the bearings spun. By the way, how did you get your balancer off, that's all I lack to pull my crank but my balancer puller won't work as the LS1 balancer as you know does not have any bolts holes other than the main center bolt. I hope you figure yours out and let us know when you do.
If so, this was not a smart move. You can do two bad things: 1) have oil pickup suck up air and 2) have oil level above crank, which then whips up and aireates the oil.
DONT SOUND GOOD, THINK THE OIL PAN IS FINE, THIS POINT PUT A MAN GAUGE ON IT AND CHECK. HOPE IF DIDNT LET RUN LONG WITH ONE END UP IN THE AIR FROM THE OTHER. AFTER ALL OF THAT AIR WORKS OUT OF THE BOTTOM END. SHOULD COME BACK UP GOOD. HOW MUCH OF A ANGLE WAS ONE FROM THE OTHER....
If so, this was not a smart move. You can do two bad things: 1) have oil pickup suck up air and 2) have oil level above crank, which then whips up and aireates the oil.
At this point I was thinking that if I set the car completely down on all 4's that the oil pressure might be normal. So I did so, and the pressure only got to about 15-20 PSI again. If I rev it alittle, it will reach about 30-35 PSI. There is absolutly no engine noise or anything though, even when its at like 10 PSI on start up before it finds the smooth idle.
My oil pressure at 180' was 15 idle and 35 max, hence I decided to pull it before the bearings spun. By the way, how did you get your balancer off, that's all I lack to pull my crank but my balancer puller won't work as the LS1 balancer as you know does not have any bolts holes other than the main center bolt. I hope you figure yours out and let us know when you do.
To get the pulley off you need a 3 jaw puller and a plug that goes in the end of the crank so the puller can push on it. Thats how I removed mine and thats how I am going to do it again I guess
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DONT SOUND GOOD, THINK THE OIL PAN IS FINE, THIS POINT PUT A MAN GAUGE ON IT AND CHECK. HOPE IF DIDNT LET RUN LONG WITH ONE END UP IN THE AIR FROM THE OTHER. AFTER ALL OF THAT AIR WORKS OUT OF THE BOTTOM END. SHOULD COME BACK UP GOOD. HOW MUCH OF A ANGLE WAS ONE FROM THE OTHER....Theres a few issues it "Could" be. But NONE of them are gonna be able to be looked at with the cam in.
BUT.....If your oil pressure is stable at close to normal conditions, then watch it.. If you start to see it slowly decline to dangerous levels, then immediatly pull it. Dont pray thet the pressure will just come back..
Last edited by Jeff @ TPE; Mar 15, 2008 at 05:06 PM.
Theres a few issues it "Could" be. But NONE of them are gonna be able to be looked at with the cam in.
BUT.....If your oil pressure is stable at close to normal conditions, then watch it.. If you start to see it slowly decline to dangerous levels, then immediatly pull it. Dont pray thet the pressure will just come back..
Got a new sensor and no problems. While I was at it, I did silicone seal on the knock senosr so that water does not get in them and give you the dreaded P0410 code.
I am really hoping thats the problem. I could have messed it up when I jacked up the motor b/c the back of the intake was smashed against the firewall, so maybe the sensor is messed up and smashed too.
The ring might not be pinched, just installed incorrectly. Also, on the cam retainer plate, did you make sure little gasket was undamaged?
As much as I hate to tell you, if the oil pressure is different now than it was before and you only did a cam swap it is probably because something was done incorrectly, or one of the parts malfunctioned.
My reccomendation would be to make sure your oil level is good. Change the sender first and if oil pressure is low, go back and redo the oil pump/tube install. Other than the cam being machined incorrectly it's the only area that would affect oil pressure so substantially.





















