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If you think you might have clutch hydraulic problems, is there any way to isolate whether it is the slave or master? Or, is it just a crap shoot as to which one might be the problem.
I've replaced both master and slave with new '04 in the last year, so both are the same age.
The pedal feels fine, but my freshly rebuilt transmission does not shift well indicating I might have hydraulic problems. I'm going to try replacing the master, but wondered if it could be a slave issue? How would you know?
Are you sure it is not in your newly rebuilt tranny?
What exactly are the symptoms?
BTW it is hard to isolate the master or slave, so I would swap the master first, because it is easier to change. Also if it is the slave it will leak around the seal, which you may be able to see, especially if you pull the inspection cover from the bellhousing. Are you losing any fluid?
How does one do that? I'm having issues too, I might as well check that.
Pop out the console and radio bezel. Pull up the shifter boot. Get a T40 and loosen the (2) T40 bolts that hold the shifter in place
There is a little (L) shaped bracket at the front of the shifter. Stick the (L) shaped bracket into the front hole (Black Piece at the front of the shifter).
The shifter is now in the neutral position. Pull the shifter body forward lightly so that there is some tension on it and retighten the (2) T40 bolts.
If that does not fix your problem, you might want to check the air gap on your clutch by pulling the inspection plate. have a friend push in the clutch and use a feeler gauge to check the air gap between the pressure plate and disc.
Pop out the console and radio bezel. Pull up the shifter boot. Get a T40 and loosen the (2) T40 bolts that hold the shifter in place
There is a little (L) shaped bracket at the front of the shifter. Stick the (L) shaped bracket into the front hole (Black Piece at the front of the shifter).
The shifter is now in the neutral position. Pull the shifter body forward lightly so that there is some tension on it and retighten the (2) T40 bolts.
If that does not fix your problem, you might want to check the air gap on your clutch by pulling the inspection plate. have a friend push in the clutch and use a feeler gauge to check the air gap between the pressure plate and disc.
I have a hurst shifter, does that make a difference?
If you think you might have clutch hydraulic problems, is there any way to isolate whether it is the slave or master? Or, is it just a crap shoot as to which one might be the problem.
I've replaced both master and slave with new '04 in the last year, so both are the same age.
The pedal feels fine, but my freshly rebuilt transmission does not shift well indicating I might have hydraulic problems. I'm going to try replacing the master, but wondered if it could be a slave issue? How would you know?
Thanks
^^I had a slave cylinder go bad on me and I experienced the following problems. The tranny shifted fine with the engine off but had extreme difficulty or could not shift when the engine was running even when the car was not moving.
With the car off I could shift into the gear I wanted, then start car and drive. However, when I pressed in the clutch pedal the clutch remained engaged meaning the car would not stop or come to rest on its own. If I stopped the car, even with my foot on the clutch, the car shuddered and stalled.
What does it feel like? did you change the clutch? when does it engage?
Pedal feels great. Engages 2" off the bottom of the pedal travel, 1" of "free" play on top.
Clutch was changed 1 year ago and I put new 04 slave and master in at the same time. The rebuilt tranny just went in and I did nothing to the clutch or hydraulics when I had it out.
The sympoms are the same as before the tranny rebuild, notchy shifting, can't get car into reverse with engine running.... but the car does not move when the clutch is pushed in and in gear. This was verified with the back end jacked up. 2" off the bottom of the travel the wheels quit spinning.
Are you sure it is not in your newly rebuilt tranny?
What exactly are the symptoms?
BTW it is hard to isolate the master or slave, so I would swap the master first, because it is easier to change. Also if it is the slave it will leak around the seal, which you may be able to see, especially if you pull the inspection cover from the bellhousing. Are you losing any fluid?
No fluid loss.
Symptoms in above post.
I understand the master would be easier to change... was just hoping there might be a good way to figure out which one is the culprit without "throwing parts" at the car.
No... have not recently... at least not in the last year (never had it apart in the last year and never lost fluid).
Is it possible to have air in the line without the clutch pedal feeling spongy?
I would pull the inspection cover and check the air gap to see if the clutch is fully releasing. That will give you the answer you need to determine if it's a clutch or tranny issue.