I just purchased my vette and since the car is right under 50k miles I want to do just about every little maintenance item now to feel a bit more comfortable beating on it. Im looking for some recommendations on brands that I should purchase for it. The car is bone stock and will see basic bolt-ons and my nitrous kit(dry system, won't be installed until I do a clutch).
Here's what I have planned so far:

Oil change - Mobil 1
Oil filter - ???
Spark plugs - NGK TR55
Plug wires - ???
Slave cylinder flush - ???
Fuel filter - generic Napa brand?
Also planning on Seafoaming it and if I foul the o2 sensors I'll replace them too

Also thinking about tranny fluid change, and rear dif fluid change.

Thoughts?

 

ttt

 

If I did not know the cars previous Maint record I would start with the coolant first.

 

I was in a similar situation when I bought my vette a few years ago. Here is what I did:
1. Oil change - Mobil 1
2. Transmission fluid and filter change. I did not have it flushed since the tech said the fluid coming out was in good shape and he didn't think I needed it.
3. Flushed brake fluid. Did this as part of an upgrade to D/S rotors and stainless brake lines.
4. Didn't change diff fluid since I planned to change it out anyway.
5. Didn't change out coolant. Gold coolant good for 100K.
6. Did change out plugs and wires. Wires are GMPP red. Plugs are NGK TR55

Hope this helps.

 

What's the recommended oil filter for our cars?

 

org was UPF44, dealers still can get, replacement you normally get at chevy and autozone, advance, pep boys etc. is pf46 I believe. It is what I use in my 03 Z.

I would do everything you stated plus coolant if it is within your budget, just for peace of mind. enjoy the car.

 

I would not use a UPF44 oil filter, too restrictive. I used to use them, switched to WIX (or NAPA Gold, same filter) and got 10-15 more psi oil pressure, since oil sensor is after filter, this means more oil flow. Oil analysis after 6,500 miles showed no difference.

I would definately change MN6 transmission fluid. Because you have a 1999 with paper blocker rings, use Amsoil ATF or ATD.

I agree change coolant.

 

Thank you very much. The budget will support everything I listed and much more if necessary. I want to make sure the car will be in the absolute best shape for this summer. i will add changing the coolant to the list. Did our cars come with that dexcool crap like the f-bodies did? If so should I stick with it or go to the green stuff? Also what is the difference between Amsoil ATF and ATD?

 

Not much.

AMSOIL ATF (stock code ATFQT)
AMSOIL Torque-Drive Synthetic Transmission Fluid (stock code ATDQT)

The AMSOIL Online Product Application Guide lists both as recommended for the C5 (and C6) manual transmissions. Both are labeled to be suitable for Dexron III specifications, the spec for the C5 manual. The ATF was reformulated recently to also be suitable for the newer Dexron VI specification which required a slightly lower viscosity.

I have been using the ATF in my Z06 for years without any transmission failures and also run it in my 06 CTS-V. That said, I will probably switch to the ATD this year (if I can find the time to get out on the track as I deploy again this summer) due to its slightly higher viscosity, which I think will help a little in the high temps my tranny sees on the track. I use the ATD in my GMC 3500 HD pickup and GMC 5500 RV, both of which have Allison transmissions (which is what the ATD was designed for - so I have lots of the ATD in my garage).

As an FYI, AMSOIL has partnered with Wix and NGK and also carries these parts in line with your maintenance plan:
Oil Filters:
AMSOIL Ea Oil Filter (C5 part EAO32)
Wix 51042
Air Filter:
AMSOIL Ea Air Filter (C5 part EAA83)
Wix 46144
Fuel Filter: Wix 33737
Plugs: TR55IX (Part number NGK7164) (I use these)
TR55 (part NGK3951)
TR55GP (part NGK3403)

They also carry something similar to Seafoam: AMSOIL Engine Flush (stock code AEFCN)

 

Here are what I use or used (on previous MN6)


Oil change - Mobil 1

Oil filter - Fram, not the 3.99 I use the higher priced one and change filter at 50% oil life.

Spark plugs - NGK TR55

Plug wires - 8.5mm thichness

Slave cylinder flush - Dot 3, use a turkey baster

Fuel filter - no opionion,

Coolant, use the orange stuff and demin or distilled water.

Also planning on Seafoaming it and if I foul the o2 sensors I'll replace them too. Why do you want to seafoam, is it "ping"? I have seafoam mine to get rid of a ping, if it isn't broken......

Also thinking about tranny fluid change, and rear dif fluid change. for the tranny a GM (Dexron) approved ATF fluid. I have no opinion on the Diff Fluid.

Thoughts?[/QUOTE]


good luck.

 

C5 cars came with Dexcool. Stick with it. It's worked great in my two Corvettes and my wife's Pontiac.

If you change it, you have to get every last bleedin' drop of the Dexcool out before putting the green antifreeze in. Failure to do so will create chemical problems that, if I remember right, can cause blockage in the rad. Besides, the Dexcool has a much longer intended service life than the 1960s (or earlier) vintage green ethylene glycol we've been using for years. If it weren't for the need to flush the cooling system something like 5-6 times with clear water to get all the old antifreeze out, I'd switch my Shelby to the newer stuff.

Switching back to the green ethylene glycol is, in my opinion, like deciding those synthetic motor oils aren't really necessary, and I liked the old class MM (non-detergent) Havoline my Dad ran in his '57 Chevy when I was a kid.

Both the automotive technology and the lubricant chemistry has changed. New coolants have a rust inhibitor package that is designed to work with the all or mostly aluminum engines seen in modern cars (ours are aluminum block, heads, etc.), and to have extended life.

The problems people have with the Dexcool seem to stem, mostly, from problems with the cooling system (air in the system, leaks, old hoses), or from mixing Dexcool with other coolants. If you maintain the cooling system, you shouldn't have any of the problems listed, and should be able to avoid adding coolant other than at flush intervals.

For my cars, at five years, I follow the change procedure in the shop manual. It doesn't call for a full flush and refill at that point - just drain, refill, and bleed. Apparently the clever folks in the engineering center think that's sufficient to replenish the additive package for anti-corrosion and so forth.

The real trick is bleeding the system after a change. Drain (located at lower passenger side corner of the rad), refill with half and half Dexcool and drinkable water (distilled water from the parts store will help keep minerals out - probably worth the expense). Leave the cap off the surge tank and start the car. Once it's warmed up enough to open the t-stat and start coolant flow, fill back to full line and cap the surge tank. Warm the engine to 215-220* by alternating between 3000 RPM and idle on about 30 second intervals. Once the temp has been reached, shut the engine down and check the surge tank. If it is below the full line, carefully remove the cap and refill. Repeat the warm-up cycle. Once the level is stable around the full line, let the car cool down and check it. Refill the tank if necessary and repeat the warm-up sequence. Once the level in the tank holds between cycles, yer done. If you just fill it and forget it, there will probably be air captured in the system, which can cause problem with cooling and with the coolant.

On reflection, the green stuff is probably okay for my Shelby and my old WS6 Trans Am. Cast iron engines, designed for eth-gly. But they need changed every couple of years at the least, even if the cars aren't driven much. I try to match the products to the car - the Shelby runs on Union Guardol motor oil, my wife's 2004 Pontiac and my 2002 Corvette get synthetics. The Corvette gets an oil the meets the standard GM set for the LS1 engines. Just seems best.

 

I bought my car used with 43k miles on it. Should I change the plugs?

 

Clearly want to change the fuel filter. About $100 for that car at Chevy dealer.

And...maybe think about hoses??