Bilstein Shock Install ?
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 793
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From: Milwaukee & Long Beach WI & CA
Bilstein Shock Install ?
I'm installing Bilstein sports shocks on my '01 coupe with a Z51 suspension. I've been using these two write ups:
http://fuzzydiceracing.com/test.htm
http://www.c5forum.com/diy/shocks.php
It's all pretty straight forward, but I have a question about the washer the comes one the Bilsteins just above the bump stops. It can be seen in this pic:
Basically I'm wondering if this washer is really needed. It seems like it's going to make a lot of rattling sounds. The OEM shocks don't have it, but then the bump stop is shaped differently at the end. The OEM bump stop is taller at the edges so that it will contact there first where as the Bilsteins bump stop will make contact at the center near the shaft.
This thread got me wondering about this, as someone suggests removing the washer in it:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1081409
I don't see many people talking about this though. Is everyone just installing them as delivered by Bilstein and not hearing any rattles?
http://fuzzydiceracing.com/test.htm
http://www.c5forum.com/diy/shocks.php
It's all pretty straight forward, but I have a question about the washer the comes one the Bilsteins just above the bump stops. It can be seen in this pic:
Basically I'm wondering if this washer is really needed. It seems like it's going to make a lot of rattling sounds. The OEM shocks don't have it, but then the bump stop is shaped differently at the end. The OEM bump stop is taller at the edges so that it will contact there first where as the Bilsteins bump stop will make contact at the center near the shaft.
This thread got me wondering about this, as someone suggests removing the washer in it:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1081409
I don't see many people talking about this though. Is everyone just installing them as delivered by Bilstein and not hearing any rattles?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 3,447
Likes: 6
From: Los Angeles
I left the washer on the shock per the instructions. Bilstein knows more about shocks than I do, I defer to their experience.
When the shock compresses the first couple times, the rubber stop (closest to the shock) will push everything up anyway and it will stay there. Try moving it with your hand, you'll see it is very snug. The part you assemble seems loose when you install it, but it will not stay that way.
The shocks, with the washer installed, do not make ANY noise on my car whatsoever. Just follow the directions, you won't have any problems. Enjoy the great, new ride!
EDIT: I read the thread you posted where the guy removed that collar and put the washer on the other side of it. I did that, too. But when I helped install the Bilsteins on my friends C5, I noticed the function of the rubber stop I mentioned above. Either way will work, but the first way I did it was not necessary afterall and really was a PITA.
When the shock compresses the first couple times, the rubber stop (closest to the shock) will push everything up anyway and it will stay there. Try moving it with your hand, you'll see it is very snug. The part you assemble seems loose when you install it, but it will not stay that way.
The shocks, with the washer installed, do not make ANY noise on my car whatsoever. Just follow the directions, you won't have any problems. Enjoy the great, new ride!
EDIT: I read the thread you posted where the guy removed that collar and put the washer on the other side of it. I did that, too. But when I helped install the Bilsteins on my friends C5, I noticed the function of the rubber stop I mentioned above. Either way will work, but the first way I did it was not necessary afterall and really was a PITA.
Last edited by DefenderC5; Mar 22, 2008 at 04:16 AM.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 11,152
Likes: 890
From: South Western Ontario
Is there a steel sleeve in the dust cover? That washer would spread out the load onto the bump stop from the centre of the dust cover.
Interesting that looking at that picture the 1" the Bilstein is shorter is clear but by the time the bump stop and dust sleeve parts are added it looks like both shocks will be hitting the bump stop at about the same compressed height. Well, the Bilstein appears to allow a bit more travel but it sure doesn't look like 1" more.
Peter
Interesting that looking at that picture the 1" the Bilstein is shorter is clear but by the time the bump stop and dust sleeve parts are added it looks like both shocks will be hitting the bump stop at about the same compressed height. Well, the Bilstein appears to allow a bit more travel but it sure doesn't look like 1" more.
Peter
Pro
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 676
Likes: 2
From: Amherst VA
Is there a steel sleeve in the dust cover? That washer would spread out the load onto the bump stop from the centre of the dust cover.
Interesting that looking at that picture the 1" the Bilstein is shorter is clear but by the time the bump stop and dust sleeve parts are added it looks like both shocks will be hitting the bump stop at about the same compressed height. Well, the Bilstein appears to allow a bit more travel but it sure doesn't look like 1" more.
Peter
Interesting that looking at that picture the 1" the Bilstein is shorter is clear but by the time the bump stop and dust sleeve parts are added it looks like both shocks will be hitting the bump stop at about the same compressed height. Well, the Bilstein appears to allow a bit more travel but it sure doesn't look like 1" more.
Peter
Andy
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 124,480
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From: .... NJ
Cruise-In VII Veteran
St. Jude Donor '05 thru '19
Ok, there is no way that the rear lower shock bolt can be torqued to a 162 lb ft, can it? I used a high end snap-on torque wrench. I was like WTF when i was going at it, so I set it down to 140 ft lb and it still was not clicking, I snapped the bolt right in half. When I do the lugs at 100 ft lb it is no problem.
So what did I do wrong? To me the torque feels more like 62 ft lb and not a 162.
So what did I do wrong? To me the torque feels more like 62 ft lb and not a 162.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 11,152
Likes: 890
From: South Western Ontario
Yup, that is the torque (or something close to that) but to re-torque to that requires the use of a new bolt because the used bolt can't handle being re-torqued that high.
Peter
Peter
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 3,447
Likes: 6
From: Los Angeles
Peter is correct, 162 ft/lbs is the right spec. There has been some speculation about those bolts and IMO, they are torque to yeild from the factory (one-time use to that spec). Many people have reused them without issues, however, when I reinstalled mine (7 years old). One of them FAILED when barely getting over 100 ft lbs. Better to get replacement bolts. I used grade 8s (stronger) the GM ones are M 9.8 (a little over grade 5) but are 10 bucks each.My replacement was Grade 8 5/8" X 4" with 11 Coarse Thread, Locking nut and washer. It was slightly longer than the stock bolt, but clearance was not an issue.
New bolt on left, broken stock bolt center, remaining stock bolt right (it torqued to 162 but when I removed it, it showed signs of fatigue on the threads). The new bolts torqued to 162 ft/lbs EASY with the right leverage. These are dry torque specs... don't use any thread locker or anything else.
Last edited by DefenderC5; Mar 23, 2008 at 06:16 AM.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 124,480
Likes: 288
From: .... NJ
Cruise-In VII Veteran
St. Jude Donor '05 thru '19
Peter is correct, 162 ft/lbs is the right spec. There has been some speculation about those bolts and IMO, they are torque to yeild from the factory (one-time use to that spec). Many people have reused them without issues, however, when I reinstalled mine (7 years old). One of them FAILED when barely getting over 100 ft lbs. Better to get replacement bolts. I used grade 8s (stronger) the GM ones are M 9.8 (a little over grade 5) but are 10 bucks each.My replacement was Grade 8 5/8" X 4" with 11 Coarse Thread, Locking nut and washer. It was slightly longer than the stock bolt, but clearance was not an issue.
New bolt on left, broken stock bolt center, remaining stock bolt right (it torqued to 162 but when I removed it, it showed signs of fatigue on the threads). The new bolts torqued to 162 ft/lbs EASY with the right leverage. These are dry torque specs... don't use any thread locker or anything else.
The new one on the left looks like the same nut, washer and bolt I got at Lowes. It has got a bit more weight to it as well. I got 2 just in case. Maybe I will replace the OEM one with it. Thanks for the replies.
