In the garage now. I removed the little white plastic retainer at the top, flipped up the grey handle, and nada. Harness just does not seem to want to come out easily and of coarse I am a little timid. Any tips to get it out or am I missing something ???

 

got it .. just needed a long flat edge screw driver to pry a little on the harness edge and it snapped off/out of the grey handle.

 

how long did it take you to remove the EBCM? I need to do mine yesterday... did you have to move the radiator hose or just go to town on it? Just 4 tork screws?

 

it's a pain to break the seal, then it's a cake walk. I think I spent over an hour getting mine off, mostly worried that i would break something, but after doing it once I could probably do the whole job in 20 min. prying it apart with a screw driver is the only way it's coming off.

BADMFR, no need to remove the radiator hose, just the intake. Also, I think some years are different, but I had 6 screws to remove.

 

The procedure for replacing the EBCM is very simple. The only special tool you need is a T-20 torx screw driver. I have a Craftsman tool set that has a 1/4" drive screwdriver with and adapter for many different size bit. Unfortunately, the adapter was to long to fit between the EBCM and water pump, so I purchased a set of Craftsman 5 pc. torx screwdriver set that worked fine. A flathead screwdriver may also be needed to pry apart the EBCM from the BPMV

1 - make sure the car is off.
2 - you will probably need to remove the airbridge to get to the EBCM.
3 - remove the wire harness by first removing the white plastic clip that locks it in place (I cut it off and replaced it with a zip-tie), then lift gray handle and pull back on the wire harness. At this point, you will be able to see the second wire connection that is removed by pulling down.
4 - The service manual call for you the remove the 2 insulator nuts that hold the BPMV to the brackets and lift the EBCM/BPMV out of the bracket. I do not think this step is necessary because there is plenty of room while it is still in the bracket and you do not gain much additional clearance since the brake lines restrict the movement.
5 - Remove the 6 T-20 torx screws connecting the EBCM and BPMV - 1 on each corner and 2 on the sides.
6 - "Separate the EBCM from the BPMV by gently pulling apart until separated" - I should start laughing here, but it's not that funny. It's been my experience that anytime the instructions call for you to do something gently, nothing gentle is going to work. In this case, I had to use a flathead screw driver to brake the seal. Once it moved a little, the rest was easy. In addition to the rubber seal, each of the 12 holes have a peg in them from the BPMV. Don't go crazy, but be prepared to force them apart.
7 - At this point, all you've got to do is put it all back together. push the new EBCM onto the BPMV.
8 - Replace the 6 T-20 torx screws
9 - reconnect the wire harness
10 - put the intake back on

 

My additional .02 after having done it:

- I did not need to remove anything including the air bridge/intake ... I have big fat, short hands/arms too so if I could get to everythign for removal anyone should be able too.
- The white plastic clip almost looks like a zip tie ... just tug on it to separate it from the top of of the EBCM clip ... dont know what to technically call it but "clip" in the instructions I have read was a little confusing to me.
- Make sure to pull the grey handle all the way back to release the large harness from the EBCM. It is also a joke to just pull on it to seperate it. I had to pry with a screwdriver at the top edge for it to come off ... it will then snap out of the grey handle and come loose. Be carefull not to break anything but I did have to pry on it pretty good against the grey handle.
- The second electrical connector you wil see when removing the big/main connector does not just pull off. Stick the flat edge screwdrive down from the top of the EBCM and pry very lightly on the retaining clip and then pull it down to release it.
- Dont know what these two insulator nuts are I keep hearing about in the instructions ... all I need to remove was the 6 torx screws and the two connectors to get it off
- Seperateing the EBCM once screws are removed by pulling on it is a joke. I had to do alot of prying with a very long flat edge screw driver. Only place to really pry from is from the top unless you get under the car. I just pryed on it from the top but be carefull. I only recommend prying it close to the corners because if you pry from the center the seal is right there and you will mess it up a bit. The seal angles down at the corners so there is about a cm accross and down inbetween the two units you have to work the screw driver before hitting the seal. However, just from seperating the seal gets a little jacke dup in other areas too so dont know how big of a deal this is.


Now, my final question is how good does this seal need to be for reinstall. As you can see mine is a little jacked up, especially where I inserted the scredriver at the top.

The missing portions of the seal are still sticking to the BPMV so I think it will still seal up fairly well but not sure how critical this is. Should I replace my seal and is that even an option ... it almost seems like a liquid seal rather than a rubber o-ring that can simply be replaced ??? If replace, where can I pick one up at ???

 

I just took mine off and sent it in today too.

I had to take my air bridge off, just so I could see wtf was going on and where the screws were.

Only problem I had is that I'm a f'n idiot and took the bottom two cover screws out instead of the bottom two that hold the EBCM on! I was prying on that fk'er for 20 minutes before I figured out how dumb I am. After I took the correc two bottom screws out it was easily taken out. I jacked up the seal a little bit too, but will just put a little liquid gasket sealer on it before replacing.

 

Uuuurgghhh ... FedEx automatically added signature required as I insured it with being such an expensive piece and absfixer.com is not there normal delivery hours !!! Just got the the sig removed but waste of quick shipping costs.

Anyways, is it ok to drive the vette with the EBCM removed ??? I will make sure to tie wrap up the harnesses so they dont get caught up in anything but dont really know how that thing works and if driving might not be a good idea from any perspective except no abs, etc. I am in AZ so no real chance of rain or anything nasty that it would see.

 

I've been driving mine for 3 days now. Duct taped the BPMV or whatever it connects to up real good and made srue the wiring harnesses won't migrate into the serpintine. Lots of codes thrown, but nothing unexpected.

 

YES...you can safely continue to drive your car, just remember that your electronic driving aids are no longer functioning so you should adjust your driving habits accordingly.

 

I did my EBCM about 4 months back. I also taped mine up and drove it while it was off. No issues other than codes. One mistake I made that I thought you should consider. Don't over tighten the torx screws on the re-install. I broke one off and still haven't gone back to get it out. Maybe someone can chime in on what the the appropriate amount to tighten them.