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I'm looking to replace my oil pressure sending unit in the next couple weeks. I've read writeups on how do this by moving the intake manifold out of the way, but I have some lingering questions.
First, it seems there is a coolant line running to the TB that needs to be disconnected. Will this result in coolant gushing out? Will I need to cap it or pinch it shut or anything? Or is it safe to remove and leave alone?
Second, are there any gaskets involved?
Sorry for the simple questions but this car is new to me and I'm still learning my way around the underhood in general!
I just swapped mine a day or so ago. It was pretty easy, I took my time and it took about four hours. Today my back and legs are killing me from leaning over the car though. Im a pretty young guy too.
I just pulled my throttle body last week and let the coolent run out, and it was not much, maybe a pint. you might want to check out LS1howto.com they have a good write up on swapping intake manifold's.
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Originally Posted by jgorss
I just pulled my throttle body last week and let the coolent run out, and it was not much, maybe a pint. you might want to check out LS1howto.com they have a good write up on swapping intake manifold's.
You can even leave the throttle body coolant lines connected and unbolt it from the manifold. Unplug the two electrical connectors (if necessary) and just move it forward enough to let it hang and give enough clearance to remove the manifold.
Alaskanpilot: One tip I would give to you is to thoroughly clean (vacuum or compressed air) all along both sides of the manifold before removal. Otherwise the dirt/sand/crud accumulation can fall into the exposed intake ports of the cylinder heads when you remove the intake.
You can even leave the throttle body coolant lines connected and unbolt it from the manifold. Unplug the two electrical connectors (if necessary) and just move it forward enough to let it hang and give enough clearance to remove the manifold.
Alaskanpilot: One tip I would give to you is to thoroughly clean (vacuum or compressed air) all along both sides of the manifold before removal. Otherwise the dirt/sand/crud accumulation can fall into the exposed intake ports of the cylinder heads when you remove the intake.
HTH
Thanks for the helpful replies everyone... and I really like the tip about cleaning the sides of the manifold... I never would have thought of that and I do know I have some dirt under those fuel rail covers. I should be able to handle this without a problem!
I also agree, most of the gaskets on these motors are th re usable type. I would wipe them off, if they looked torn or ripped replace it. ALos when installing the new sender, be very careful as they are cheaply made and break easily.
have had mine off twice....it is not hard...when you unhook the coolant line a little will come out but stops soon after....the gaskets are reusable but you will need to clean the intake and the heads....be sure to not get anything down in the intake runners while cleaning....I used brake cleaner and just spray and wipe...you can use a socket on the sending unit but if it feels like it is too tight and going to strip, stop, there is a special shaped socket that fits better. If you strip it off you will have troubles getting it out.
While you are in there, if you have ever thought about removing the air tubes, or changing the PCV over to the Z06 style, now is the time to do it
You can even leave the throttle body coolant lines connected and unbolt it from the manifold. Unplug the two electrical connectors (if necessary) and just move it forward enough to let it hang and give enough clearance to remove the manifold.
This what i would suggest. 3 bolts and 2 electrical plugs takes the throttle body off the manifold.
Well, I guess if he drives in a cold climate. I have no idea what the weather is like in Alaska but it sounds cold. That is the only reason coolant runs through the throttle body.
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
A couple other things came to mind too. Come time to tighten the intake manifold bolts, be VERY careful. The torque on these is measured in INCH POUNDS! My shop manual shows 44 inch pounds (first pass) and 89 inch pounds (second and final pass) I would also advise you clean or wire brush (if necessary) the threads of the intake manifold bolts to remove any signs of thread sealant that still may be present from the factory and use just a drop of Loc-Tite Blue on the clean threads when re-installing. These bolts are long and thin and can very easily be over-torqued. If you don't have an INCH-POUND torque wrench, I would advise buying or borrowing one. You can use the wrench when retorqueing the throttle body bolts too (106 inch pounds). Follow the same sequence of tightening the manifold as you would any other, starting in the center and criss-crossing while working outwards in a "circular" pattern.