I've got an odd HVAC issue and I was hoping you guys could shed some light on them. I've got a 98 by the way.

Last weekend I upgraded my 10yr old shocks to new C6z06 shocks. Out of habit, I disconnected the negative battery cable before starting work. After completing the job, my HVAC control has been screwed up.

Here is a summary of what is going on:
I can't control temperature on the passenger side. The actuator appears to be stuck at full cold position. I have codes BO365 and B0367 which I know are from the RH actuator. I have not been able to trouble shoot these yet. I've tried pulling fuses and resetting codes as suggested in other posts, but as soon as I clear a code, it comes right back. I assume that the RH actuator got stuck and therefore failed it's calibration check upon power being applied again. I plan to follow the steps in the manual, but haven't had time yet.

The odd problem that I have is that my HVAC will not operate the fan while in AUTO mode. For example, if I start up the car and put it in AUTO, it will display changes in modes (bi-level, floor, fresh/recirc) as I adjust the temp ****, but it will not turn on the fan at all, nor will it display the fan speed on the left like normal.

If I go to manual operation of the HVAC, the fan will come on and operate at different speeds, etc. Even in manual, the passenger side temperature is stuck at full cold.

Will the HVAC operate in AUTO with actuator codes active? Did my HVAC controller just quit on me? If anyone has any ideas, plese let me know!

 

Same thing happened to me, but driver's side actuator.

When I took it apart after Remove and replace, the plastic gear was cracked in two places.

Cost me $100 from rock auto for the new actuator.

BTW, the HVAC fan symptoms seem to be caused by the 36x codes. If you notice manual fan control on high is not as fast as auto on high. And it seems the auto will not engage with these codes set.

Either way, I had very similar problems and replacing the driver's side actuator cured them all. Mine too were after a battery disconnect, for a cam swap.

I've disconnected the battery several times since then and not a problem since acutator change.

Auto mode returned to working correctly as well.

I snapped some pics of the actuator on the drivers side, but yours is pass side.

You may be able to get to it by removing glovebox, but will likely have to remove the dash.

If you need help, since you are close, I can help you pull the dash. I helped a guy do two HUD retrofits (mine and his) Sunday, both required pulling the dash. Neither of us had a clue when we started, but we know now. LOL.

 

Thanks for the information. I've gotten to the drivers actuator before without pulling the dash, but I've heard the passenger side is tougher. I'll post an update after I get a chance to dig in and work on this.

 

I finally had some time to fix my A/C vent problem this weekend. I ended up buying some used actuators on E-Bay for ~$15/each.

The dash came off pretty easily. I was struggling with the glove box until I read in my manual to remove the bolt access plugs. Just reach behind and push up while prying with a flat blade screwdriver. Once the plugs are out, no more access problems.

My defective passenger side actuator had a brokenn large gear. Everything works great now, now problems.

Dash went back in easily also. Just remember to hook up the hazard switch or you'll be taking everything apart again.

Probably a 3-4 hour job start to finish. Thanks for all the help from the forum.

 

Thank you for the update!!