threw about 30 codes. Could this be more BCM bullsh1t?

BCM = 2592
1255
1096
1016
2587

SDM = 1301

IPC = 1064
1174
1088
1255
1040
1176
1160

HVAC = 1064
1255
1096
1160


LDCM = 1064
2284

RDCM = 1064

SCM = 1160
1300
1255

RFA = 1255
1096


what could all this be related to? I lost all power and everything today. the car kept running, but was FORD (found on road dead) for about 10 minutes, then it cleared out and I could go. Will all this happen if the BCM goes out?

 

You should have your battery checked sounds like a battery issue or maybe a loose ground. Let us know what you find





boghog

 

hum....just put in a new battery 2 months ago...ill check it. but I also got BMC and that pull key wait 10 sec crap a few days ago. the car didnt act up this bad though. I also lost power in the drivers door the other day as well

 

did you torque the battery terminals down to 11 ft-lbs? over or under torqing will cause a massive amount of grief.

 

are you serious? i think its ok. but im anxiously awaiting leaving work to look

 

Hi Ryan -

Sounds like low voltage to me.

best regards -

mqqn

 

OK, first, when you write down the Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC) you need to copy the ENTIRE code .....

The format of the code is A1234 Z where

A is the code type (P=Powertrain, B=Body, C=Chassis and U=Communications). This is important because the code type is followed by 4 digits (1234) and there are overlaps (there is a B0507 and a P0507) so the leading letter is important. The final letter (Z in my example) will be either an "H" or a "C" - or sometimes both - indicating the status of the problem. An "H" indicates the problem is in a HISTORY status ... that is the problem occured in the past, but is not currently occuring, or a "C" indicates the problem is currently occuring.

From your description of the problem ... and guessing at some of the codes .... I'm gonna agree with the other posters that you have an electrical problem. (Gee, effing brilliant on my part ... ya think ??? ) ....

The Corvette is unusually sensitive to electrical problems. This is partly because it is loaded with sophisticated computers and sensors not found in many other cars, but it is MAINLY because the Corvette is a "plastic" car. On almost any other car, when you want to ground an electrical device, you simply ground it to the body panel it is mounted on. On a Corvette you can't do this because much of the body is SMC (plastic) so electrical parts have to be grounded back to the car's chassis, requiring extra wiring and therefore more places for things to go wrong.

I would do the following ....

1) check the battery cables. Remove the cables from the battery and check for corrosion, or a cable boot being caught and interfering with the connection. DO NOT PUT THE CABLES BACK ON.

2) Under the car, on the passenger side, check the starter motor cables. There is a POSITIVE cable that comes down from the battery. Wiggle the cable, check that it is tightly attached to the post, and also MAKE SURE the post is solidly attached in the starter assembly. Because it is close to the exhaust, the high heat in that area can (and does) cause the electrical post to "cook" out of its internal connections. When it becomes loose internally, all kinds of ugly electrical problems can occur.

3) Check connections at the alternator. Mainly you are making sure that the POSITIVE connection from the alternator to the starter are on tight. Usually if this is a problem you will get DTC's ... so this one is not as critical.

4) Re-attach battery cables. Now that you're done messing with the starter and alternator POSITIVE cables it is safe to reconnect the battery.

Let us know what you find. If this doesn't fix the problem, there are other places to look.....

 

You mentioned the drivers door controls not working. In this latest issue you had - did all the idiot lights light up on the dash?

If they did the comm line in the drivers door wiring harness is shorting out.

 

I had a friend w a fresh battery have something similar in an impala-codes went crazy dealer said BCM, but in reality a new battery cured the issues. Can you get a donor battery to test??

 

i have a brand new battery, cleaned all the connectors. checked the grounds, and the wire that gets exposed in the door. All looked good and i drove it today and even dynoed and no lights or problems yet

 

your grounds should be torqued to 106 in-lbs.