I did the LED light fix described by Suprfun on my 98. Everything seemed to work fine until I started to drive it. I now have a code C1295 "Brake Lamp Switch Circuit open". This also causes the "Service Traction Control" to come on on DIC. I have tried to clear the code but it returns immediately. Any ideas.

 

Are you talking about LED stop lights? Not sure what actual wiring mods you made to the car but here is a description of the C1295 code.

DTC C1295 Brake Lamp Switch Circuit Open

Circuit Description
This DTC is used to identify open Stoplamp Switch circuitry that prevents the Stoplamp Switch input to the EBTCM from changing states when the brake is applied.

This DTC is used in conjunction with DTC C1291 to determine the cause of an open Stoplamp Switch malfunction.

Conditions for Setting the DTC
DTC C1295 can be set after initialization is completed. If the Stoplamp Switch input voltage is out of specification for one second indicating an open circuit, a malfunction exists.

Action Taken When the DTC Sets
ABS remains enabled, TCS/ Active Handling™ (if equipped with RPO JL4) are disabled.

Indicators that turn on: Car Icon (TCS indicator
Messages displayed on the DIC: Service Traction System Service Active HNDLG (if equipped with RPO JL4)
Conditions for Clearing the DTC
Condition for DTC is no longer present and scan tool clear DTC function is used.
Fifty ignition cycles have passed with no DTCs detected.
Diagnostic Aids
It is very important that a thorough inspection of the wiring and connectors be performed. Failure to carefully and fully inspect wiring and connectors may result in misdiagnosis, causing part replacement with reappearance of the malfunction.
If an intermittent malfunction exists refer to Testing for Electrical Intermittents in Wiring Systems.
Possible causes:
Stoplamp switch input circuit open.
All brake lamps open.
Stoplamp switch open or misadjusted.
Open brake lamp ground.
Circuit has a wiring problem, terminal corrosion, or poor connections.

The stop light switch output to the EBTCM is in parallel with the current going to the stop lights. If your mod changed the wiring here or changed the current draw on the line you could get this indication.

The EBTCM is expecting to see battery voltage when the brake pedal is depressed so if you can't find a wiring error you will need to pull the EBTCM connector and measure the voltage at Pin 9. It should be 12 Volts.

Bill

 

These are the instructions posted by Suprfun that I followed.




PARTS NEEDED.

One CF13 GL-02 (12V 0.02A – 20A) LED flasher. It can be found HERE.
One 3 wire flasher plug with at least a 9 inch harness to plug the flasher into.

YOU CAN PURCHASE A 4-WAY FLASHER HARNESS AND PLUG FROM A PARTS STORE. THE ONE I BOUGHT HAD ABOUT 9 INCHES OF WIRE ON EACH OF THE TERMINALS WHICH WAS ABOUT THE PERFECT LENGTH. ANOTHER METHOD WOULD BE TO JUST USE INDIVIDUAL TERMINALS AND WIRES FROM THE NEW FLASHER. I FELT BETTER HAVING THEM ALL IN A PLUG. IT’S MORE SECURE THAT WAY AND LESS CHANCES OF THEM SHORTING.

Soldering iron, low melting point solder. Or a suitable means of connecting the wires.


1. Remove the driver’s side panel under the steering column.
2. Look for the harness and plugs shown in picture # 1. Disconnect the white plug.

Pic #1 NOTE: I HAVE OTHER THINGS IN PROGRESS. YOU DO NOT HAVE TO REMOVE THE DASH BEZEL, RADIO, HVAC,ECT….


3. If your harness is the same as mine it will have 9 wires in it. The colors are white, black, purple, dark blue, light blue, green w/black stripe, orange, pink, and gray w/black stripe. NOTE: IF YOUR WIRES ARE NOT THE SAME COLORS STOP HERE! I ONLY HAD A WIRING DIAGRAM FOR A 97 SO IF YOURS ARE DIFFERENT YOU WILL NEED TO GET A WIRING DIAGRAM FOR YOUR MODEL YEAR.


4. Find the PINK wire and the PURPLE wire and go up the harness 3 inches from the plug and cut them. Fold the 3 inch length out away from the rest of the wires as you will be soldering one wire to each of them. The longer pink and purple wires that run up in the dash to the original 4-way switch just need to be taped and put back with the harness.


In the picture I have the harness removed from the car to get a better picture of the cuts.


5. Next find the BLACK wire and go up 3 inches and remove about 5/16” of insulation from the wire. DO NOT CUT THE BLACK WIRE IN TWO! Where you have removed the insulation you will wrap the wire that runs to the – negative terminal on the new flasher and solder.

6. Run the wire from the + (positive) (49) terminal of the flasher to the 3 inch PINK wire and connect them by soldering.

7. Run the wire from the L (lights) (49a) terminal on the flasher to the 3 inch PURPLE wire and connect by soldering.

8. Next run a wire from the – (negative) (31) terminal on the flasher and connect it to the black wire where you removed the 5/16 inch of insulation and solder.

9. Plug the harness back into the plug where you disconnected it from originally.

10. Turn on the key and try the turn signals. The turn signals should flash normally with the car off or running.

11. Turn off the key and press the four-way switch in the dash. The four-ways should function normally.

12. If everything works correctly and it should, you now need to find a spot to put your new flasher.

13. I routed the wires with through the ashtray opening so that you can put a piece of Velcro on the new flasher and another piece on the back of the ashtray and stick the new flasher to the back of the ashtray to secure. If you ever need to change the flasher all you have to do is pull out the ashtray with the flasher stuck to the back of it swap it out and put it back the same way.


This is the terminal layout on the flasher I used and how the wires from the harness should hook up.

E (black wire) L lights (purple wire) B + positive (pink wire)




Be sure to use care when hooking up the wires and plug so as to not have any shorts. All of the connections should be made with the battery disconnected. If you hook this up wrong it will blow the turn signal fuse (20 amp) located in the fuse panel in the passengers footwell and possibly you new LED flasher so be sure to connect the wires just as described!. If anyone has questions I'll try to answer them the best I can. I also have more pics if needed. If you do this fix and it works for you please post your results and input. I'm sure there are people out there more knowledgeable than me so if you have any input please post it!

 

You need to check the white and orange wires to see if something happened to them when you were working on the other wires. You may want check for a poor connection or a misalignment of the stoplamp switch.

Bill

 

I figured it out! With led bulbs in all 4 taillights the circuit was not reading enough resistance (load); therefore the system thought all of the brake light bulbs were missing or out. This resulted in the traction control service error and the brake light circuit error.

I installed a 60w 7ohm resistor in the circuit and everything is working again.

Thanks for the post it.

 

At the risk of generating a lot of "hate" because I am digging up an old thread, I need some help please!

I have the dreaded C1295 code and Service Traction Control.

The car has LED halo tails, HID headlights and fog lights. I also did the extra flasher mod installation and all worked perfectly. This was done approximately 1.5 years ago.

Car was recently in shop to be vinyl wrapped and have a cam and LTs installed. There was NO problem prior to this.

Prior to going to the shop for work, the battery had a tendency to run down significantly between start ups. (no codes at this point) I attributed it to the age of the battery since it was 3-4 years old. While car was at the shop for the work, they installed a new battery as they got tired of jumping it.

When I piked up the car from the shop, they had left a connector for the ABS unplugged which gave code C1296 (near the alternator) After plugging it in no TCS warning. Last Sunday the TCS warning came up with the 1295.

I have checked the brake and tail lights and all work normally. Car hasn't been driven all this week. Went to start it this morning and the brand new battery is dead dead dead.

Is it possible the C1295 is causing some sort of drain on the battery? I am kind of at a loss here on where to look next. Any and all help and direction will be greatly appreciated.

 

Anyone??

 

Thanks for all the replies (sarcasm)

The problem turned out to be the third brake lot not being plugged back in after I had the car color changed with a wrap. After hours of chasing the problem it was a simple fix. no excuse that they didnt get this done, but at least it is solved.

They left at least two others unplugged. The color change turned out fantastic however.

 

did you use only one load resistor as your reply implies?