When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Just finished another HPDE. During the first day the RF TPS briefly read XXXX and then during the drive to the hotel it was fine. Midway through day 2 the same RF TPS read XXXX and never changed, even during the 5 hour drive home. Car is a 1999. Can I try and change the battery or is it too late to attempt this??
I don't really understand the battery swap to be honest since I read that you need to change it before it fails/leaks (???)
Just finished another HPDE. During the first day the RF TPS briefly read XXXX and then during the drive to the hotel it was fine. Midway through day 2 the same RF TPS read XXXX and never changed, even during the 5 hour drive home. Car is a 1999. Can I try and change the battery or is it too late to attempt this??
I don't really understand the battery swap to be honest since I read that you need to change it before it fails/leaks (???)
Same thing happened to me when autocrossing for the first time. And it was the RF too. Then for the next couple weeks I got intermittent failures on it, and now I haven't gotten one for a while. It's 10 years old, and the supposed battery life is 8, so I guess I'll replace all 4 when I get new tires. Are these things sensitive to getting banged around/high speeds???
Just finished another HPDE. During the first day the RF TPS briefly read XXXX and then during the drive to the hotel it was fine. Midway through day 2 the same RF TPS read XXXX and never changed, even during the 5 hour drive home. Car is a 1999. Can I try and change the battery or is it too late to attempt this??
I don't really understand the battery swap to be honest since I read that you need to change it before it fails/leaks (???)
It is not a simple process but can be done if you want to bother with it. Battery leakage is usually not a problem and you should be able to change them successfully.
The sensors do not read until the car gets rolling along, is this because the centrifugal force 'pushes' the battery against one of the contacts? (thus completing the circuit)? I apologize for such a random question, like I am hijacking my own thread, but this thought arose after seeing the inside of a sensor.
If I had a tire mounting setup in my laundry room I would go for the battery swap and try it. Unfortunately, I need to pay someone to mount my tires and since i have the magnesium wheels I try to avoid mounts/umounts as much as possible.
The sensors do not read until the car gets rolling along, is this because the centrifugal force 'pushes' the battery against one of the contacts? (thus completing the circuit)? I apologize for such a random question, like I am hijacking my own thread, but this thought arose after seeing the inside of a sensor.
If I had a tire mounting setup in my laundry room I would go for the battery swap and try it. Unfortunately, I need to pay someone to mount my tires and since i have the magnesium wheels I try to avoid mounts/umounts as much as possible.
There is some type of switch that is activated by centrifugal force, but the battery is not part of it. It is soldered to the circuit board in the sensor. If the sensor just failed, it probably hasn't leaked yet, and can probably be rebuilt. After you rebuild the sensor, you can
go through the sensor training procedure, before you mount it in the wheel. If the sensor can be learned, it will in all likelyhood, function properly when you install it in the wheel. Price for four new sensors is about $380. Rebuilding them is under $50, and your time. It all depends what you have more of; time, or money.
I've had about a 85-90% success in rebuilding sensors. It gets pretty easy after you've done a few. You just need the materials, a dremel with wire brush to easily scrape the potting away, soldering iron, solder wick, solder, a filler material and your time