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Do I need an alignment after installing Pfadt rear bar?

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Old May 17, 2008 | 07:02 PM
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Default Do I need an alignment after installing Pfadt rear bar?

I was fortunate enough to buy a rear competition Pfadt sway bar here on the forum last week. I got to thinking, what are the ramifications of switching it out with my Z06 rear bar? Will I affect anything that would require a new alignment or ??? Common sense tells me there is nothing to be concerned with, but maybe I should ask. I have a Z06 front bar and Z06 shocks. The Pfadt bar is way stiffer than the Z06 and that is the only reason I want to be sure before installing it.
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Old May 17, 2008 | 09:40 PM
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Won't affect alignment, but I wouldn't put a stiffer bar on the rear.
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Old May 17, 2008 | 10:49 PM
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I agree with FRCTony.

I don't think it would be a good idea to run the Pfadt Comp rear with a stock ZO6 front. This will probably not be a good balanced setup.

If you are going to use the Pfadt Comp rear get a Pfadt Comp front so you have a balanced system.

Call Aaron or Josh at Pfadt for additional assistance.
www.pfadtracing.com
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Old May 18, 2008 | 12:08 PM
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you could mess up the rear alignment since the lower bolt to hold the sway-bar also holds the lower a-arm, so at least mark where it was before you remove it.

Also run a matched setup.
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Old May 18, 2008 | 08:39 PM
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Well, the guy I got it from used it for drag racing. Since I don't do any racing shouldn't it be free of any issues? The car already corners like on rails with the current bars, so where is the risk...that front bar is as stiff as I need for daily driving, or am I missing something?
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Old May 18, 2008 | 09:10 PM
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Let's see...

If a car was understeering (not turning when steering is turned) you go with a softer setting at front or stiffen the rear. To correct oversteer you do the opposite. The latter is what your about to do but like 10x's as much. When close to the limit, oversteer makes a car a major handful but yours would be bordering on dangerous

If you do it without getting a matched front bar, be prepared to experience a spin or very loose situation.

Unless the end links are uneven when installed, it's not necessary to realign after install.

Arnel
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Old May 18, 2008 | 09:21 PM
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To say it simply...stiffer rear bar adds traction to front and takes it from rear...stiffer front bar adds traction to rear and takes it from front. Typically you can be ok on a vette with a stiffer front bar only as a slight push generated by a larger front bar is usually safer than oversteer created by a larger rear bar. So as AVB mentioned, be prepared for a more tail sliding car with that rear only.
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Old May 18, 2008 | 11:16 PM
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Originally Posted by AVB
Let's see...

If a car was understeering (not turning when steering is turned) you go with a softer setting at front or stiffen the rear. To correct oversteer you do the opposite. The latter is what your about to do but like 10x's as much. When close to the limit, oversteer makes a car a major handful but yours would be bordering on dangerous

If you do it without getting a matched front bar, be prepared to experience a spin or very loose situation.


Nice explanation.

I saw the Pfadt rear bar for sale on the forum but decided not to get it since I'd have to buy the matching front.
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Old May 19, 2008 | 02:17 AM
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Definitely PFADT would be the fist choice but if not, maybe an ADDCO front bar that's the same diameter as the T1 bar (38.5mm) or larger.


Arnel
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Old May 19, 2008 | 06:23 PM
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Originally Posted by thehammer69
To say it simply...stiffer rear bar adds traction to front and takes it from rear...stiffer front bar adds traction to rear and takes it from front. Typically you can be ok on a vette with a stiffer front bar only as a slight push generated by a larger front bar is usually safer than oversteer created by a larger rear bar. So as AVB mentioned, be prepared for a more tail sliding car with that rear only.
I hear ya, but what you are saying is for racing conditions and high speeds, no? My usage is strictly city driving. The loads are on the low side, aren't they? I will try it out and let you know, but it will be a while b4 I put in on.
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Old May 19, 2008 | 06:59 PM
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If you are just going to drive around easy then it makes no difference. There is no point even trying to upgrade the suspension so you might as well not even install it.

If you push your car when turning you'd better be prepared for the back of the car to try to pass you... A LOT.

Either way, installing just that bar makes no sense. But hey, it's your car.

Peter
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Old May 19, 2008 | 07:53 PM
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Yes, I agree, but I think they look way cool And, I will most likely get the front bar in the future just to complete the set...now that the car is getting old I may begin autocrossing some day too. Also, I HAVE upgraded the suspension when I went with Z06 hardware....made a great improvement...got rid of body roll and nose dive at stops.

Last edited by $$$frumnuttin'; May 19, 2008 at 07:56 PM.
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Old May 19, 2008 | 08:06 PM
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Okay so I think you guys seem to know what you are talking about, any way check out my situation. I bought a hotchkis sway bar kit from L.A.P.D. for a c6Z. The bars are as follows 115% stiffer in the front and adjustable in the rear at 30% stiffer 80% stiffer of 150% stiffer. From what I get from you guys is to first see how the car reacts at 30% stiffer with the understeering and adjust acordingly stiffer till it feels right? Becuase of you all I am second guessing myself, everywhere else has said nothing but good things about stiffer bars.
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Old May 20, 2008 | 12:13 AM
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I'd try the 80% setting, even though I believe it is 60%, 100% and 150% unless they've changed something.

The numbers are based on the Z51 bars and the Z51 has slightly more rear bar bias compared to a Z06. The Z06 bars are a decent balance for the base springs. So, 115% front and 100% rear would likely be pretty good on the base springs. Try it anyways.

Peter
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Old May 20, 2008 | 11:05 AM
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Originally Posted by $$$frumnuttin'
I hear ya, but what you are saying is for racing conditions and high speeds, no? My usage is strictly city driving. The loads are on the low side, aren't they? I will try it out and let you know, but it will be a while b4 I put in on.
I think you should not install the bar without a matching front. I realize you are not racing, but any time you get the car to the limits of grip, this bar will make your car very tail happy. In normal street driving that is only going to happen in an emergency situation. You want the car to behave predictably in an emergency maneuver. For example, if you suddenly come across a stopped car in your lane (happens to all of us) and brake hard and switch lanes, the rear end will be extra 'loose' and the car will be likely to spin into the stopped car rather than just change lanes and miss the accident.

Again, sway bars should be matched. They largely control the balance of the car.

-Aaron
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Old May 20, 2008 | 01:04 PM
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Originally Posted by lionelhutz
I'd try the 80% setting, even though I believe it is 60%, 100% and 150% unless they've changed something.

The numbers are based on the Z51 bars and the Z51 has slightly more rear bar bias compared to a Z06. The Z06 bars are a decent balance for the base springs. So, 115% front and 100% rear would likely be pretty good on the base springs. Try it anyways.

Peter
You are right that is what the bars are set at.

Originally Posted by Aaron Pfadt
I think you should not install the bar without a matching front. I realize you are not racing, but any time you get the car to the limits of grip, this bar will make your car very tail happy. In normal street driving that is only going to happen in an emergency situation. You want the car to behave predictably in an emergency maneuver. For example, if you suddenly come across a stopped car in your lane (happens to all of us) and brake hard and switch lanes, the rear end will be extra 'loose' and the car will be likely to spin into the stopped car rather than just change lanes and miss the accident.

Again, sway bars should be matched. They largely control the balance of the car.

-Aaron
So Aaron I should be looking pritty ok with the setup iam using correct? With the front bar 115% stiffer than the z51 bar and the rear set at 100% stiffer than the rear z51 bar.
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Old May 20, 2008 | 03:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Aaron Pfadt
I think you should not install the bar without a matching front. I realize you are not racing, but any time you get the car to the limits of grip, this bar will make your car very tail happy. In normal street driving that is only going to happen in an emergency situation. You want the car to behave predictably in an emergency maneuver. For example, if you suddenly come across a stopped car in your lane (happens to all of us) and brake hard and switch lanes, the rear end will be extra 'loose' and the car will be likely to spin into the stopped car rather than just change lanes and miss the accident.

Again, sway bars should be matched. They largely control the balance of the car.

-Aaron
HI Aaron...I was wondering if you would chime in here...wondering if you would PM me the cost of a front bar to 48169....thanks.
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Old May 20, 2008 | 05:13 PM
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its all fun and games till you are cornering in the rain with a rear bar that's too big (stiff) or doesn't have the appropriate height endlinks for a lowered car. Your car's rear will snap loose so fast it will make your head spin.

WTF good does a rear sway bar do for drag racing?

rember back to 6th grade science, every action has an equal and opposite reaction.

If people remember this during suspension set up they would be a lot better off.

Last edited by NASAblue; May 20, 2008 at 05:15 PM.
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Old May 20, 2008 | 05:16 PM
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Originally Posted by AVB
Definitely PFADT would be the fist choice but if not, maybe an ADDCO front bar that's the same diameter as the T1 bar (38.5mm) or larger.


Arnel
Addco's largest bar is a hollow 35 mm chrome moly steel. Their product list does not show a 38mm.
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