vacuum tube severed by battery acid p0410
#21
Race Director
#22
Race Director
Clean it all up, Get some Eastwood Rust Encapsulator and spray it good, then top off with some Eastwood Chassis Black.
You can pick up some vaccum line from the local auto store and re-run the lines. The biggest PIA is the one on the back of the intake manifold because it's part of the wiring loom.
Just run another line and tape it to the harness bundle.
You can pick up some vaccum line from the local auto store and re-run the lines. The biggest PIA is the one on the back of the intake manifold because it's part of the wiring loom.
Just run another line and tape it to the harness bundle.
#23
I have a Magnuson Supercharger on mine. I do not have the intake manifold any longer.
Might be more difficult to get to the back of. Where do I buy the Eastwood products?
Might be more difficult to get to the back of. Where do I buy the Eastwood products?
#24
Race Director
Eastwood is located in Pottstown, PA area.
Here's their web site.
http://www.eastwood.com/
Should take you a few hours to pull the intake & Maggie as I use to have a maggie too.
Helps to have a engine lift or some kind of overhead pulley to lift it up.
Here's their web site.
http://www.eastwood.com/
Should take you a few hours to pull the intake & Maggie as I use to have a maggie too.
Helps to have a engine lift or some kind of overhead pulley to lift it up.
#25
Lifting the motor and such is way beyond my skill level. I might look for the break in the wire bundle first and do a splice so I do not have to go that far. The a/c vacuum line is also broken.
#26
Race Director
It's an easy job. You don't have to lift the motor, just the SuperCharger which is around 80 pounds.
You basically, remove the fuel line, the serpentine belt unplug the injectors and a few hoses and lift off the manifold and supercharger.
Don't where you're located, but maybe you can post up in the regional area for someone to come by and give you some help.
Plan on a good day of work to get it all apart and back together.
You basically, remove the fuel line, the serpentine belt unplug the injectors and a few hoses and lift off the manifold and supercharger.
Don't where you're located, but maybe you can post up in the regional area for someone to come by and give you some help.
Plan on a good day of work to get it all apart and back together.
#27
Melting Slicks
I've had this problem since I bought the car. The current battery isn't leaking, but their is acid like what you guys see in those photos. I haven't been able to take apart anything yet to see how extensive the damage is. I'm scared to death.
I'm closing on my new home (currently in an apartment) in less than a month. Been waiting for that so I have the room and a place to take it apart and see how bad it is. The shop that did my exhaust work and tune showed me some light frame rust that was starting.
I'm not sure exactly what I might find or even how to start taking it all apart.
I'm closing on my new home (currently in an apartment) in less than a month. Been waiting for that so I have the room and a place to take it apart and see how bad it is. The shop that did my exhaust work and tune showed me some light frame rust that was starting.
I'm not sure exactly what I might find or even how to start taking it all apart.
#28
Thanks for the information! I love this forum because fellow owners are surely a great help. I am going to pull the PCM and TAC and start the rust mitigation process first and then inch forward until completion. I am considering putting in a leak free battery like the Optima Yellow Top. I just hope it is close to stock height because the Maggie's intercooler sits on top of the battery.
#29
I can give you some advice that I have learned so far. I can also refer you to two other members that have helped me tremendously. Do a search and type in code P0410 and look for the WD40 trick forum. The last 3 or 4 pages are my conversation with them. It may help you when you get your house settled and start the work.
#30
Race Director
Thanks for the information! I love this forum because fellow owners are surely a great help. I am going to pull the PCM and TAC and start the rust mitigation process first and then inch forward until completion. I am considering putting in a leak free battery like the Optima Yellow Top. I just hope it is close to stock height because the Maggie's intercooler sits on top of the battery.
I just got done doing a similar project on my buddies FRC. I pulled off the passenger side fender, front tire, battey, battery box, etc ....
Washed down everything with baking soda and water mix. Rinsed it down again with water. Got a stainless steel wire brush on the dremel and cleaned up all of the loose rust. Wiped it down with some pre-paint cleaner.
Let it sit for 30 minutes or so then used some rust encapsualtor and then some chassis black. Repair came out great.
Just get some paper bags (Lunch) and label them with the parts you take off. If it helps take some pictures as you disassemble it.
#31
Melting Slicks
Just remember when doing all electrical work to first disconnect the battery.
I just got done doing a similar project on my buddies FRC. I pulled off the passenger side fender, front tire, battey, battery box, etc ....
Washed down everything with baking soda and water mix. Rinsed it down again with water. Got a stainless steel wire brush on the dremel and cleaned up all of the loose rust. Wiped it down with some pre-paint cleaner.
Let it sit for 30 minutes or so then used some rust encapsualtor and then some chassis black. Repair came out great.
Just get some paper bags (Lunch) and label them with the parts you take off. If it helps take some pictures as you disassemble it.
I just got done doing a similar project on my buddies FRC. I pulled off the passenger side fender, front tire, battey, battery box, etc ....
Washed down everything with baking soda and water mix. Rinsed it down again with water. Got a stainless steel wire brush on the dremel and cleaned up all of the loose rust. Wiped it down with some pre-paint cleaner.
Let it sit for 30 minutes or so then used some rust encapsualtor and then some chassis black. Repair came out great.
Just get some paper bags (Lunch) and label them with the parts you take off. If it helps take some pictures as you disassemble it.
Didn't happent to take pictures did you?
#33
Race Director
Here's a better look.
#36
Race Director
#37
Race Director
Yes, I pulled off the fender, disconnect the battery and wrapped the the electrical connectors on the harness in plastic baggies to protect them from all of the junk (elements).
#39
Race Director
There's a lot of guys on here with various specialities that they learned from doing their various projects.
I'm more into the body and electrical systems, whereas others are in to motors and tuning.
Together it makes this site a nice well rounded place for information. So many guys on here took a lot of time to write-up the how to do's etc ....
I never really had the time to do that except for the conversion of the automatic to six speed that I did some time ago.
I'm more into the body and electrical systems, whereas others are in to motors and tuning.
Together it makes this site a nice well rounded place for information. So many guys on here took a lot of time to write-up the how to do's etc ....
I never really had the time to do that except for the conversion of the automatic to six speed that I did some time ago.
#40
I pulled the PCM & TAC, bagged the connectors, put on a paste of baking soda/water, then a diluted version of same, then rinsed with fresh water. It is drying now. I included a pic of the aluminum box. As you can see it is dirty. Any suggestions for cleaning it?