When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
St. Jude Donor '06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-'18-'19-'20
NCM Sinkhole Donor
Odd blinker problem
OK, a month ago my left blinker started with rapid flash. I got home and checked the blinkers finding that the front left blinker was dead. I tried to change it, but found I only had a clear lamp and not an amber one as the original is, so I put it back with plans to pick up the right lamp later. Two days later, the blinker started working correctly again. A week later, it happened again for four days. Then self corrected again. Now it gets strange... This weekend I lost the front RIGHT blinker. After 400 miles of driving and several stop / start cycles, the right blinker came back too! An inspection of all lamps shows they are all fine. Even ran a continuity test on the lamps and shook them for good measure. What could cause this?
Hi, I would start by checking the grounds.
Read Below ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Turn Signal Lamps
When the ignition switch is moved to the ON or START position, battery voltage is applied to the ELEC flasher from the HAZ T/SG MiniFuse® #15 through CKT 1739. This battery voltage is then applied from the ELEC flasher to the turn signal switch through CKT 16.
During a right or left turn signal command, battery voltage is supplied from the turn signal switch to the instrument panel electrical center and the BCM using CKT 15 for the front RH turn signal or CKT 14 for the front LH turn signal. Within the instrument panel electrical center there are two micro relays (DRL R Micro Relay #38 and DRL L Micro Relay #40) which are used to determine whether the front turn signals or the front Daytime Running Lamps (DRL) are in operation. During normal driving, the BCM will ground CKT 1914 and CKT 1915 which will activate the two DRL relays and illuminate the front DRL lamps. During a turn signal request, the BCM will remove the grounds from CKT 1914 and CKT 1915 which then allows battery voltage to pass through the DRL Micro Relays and illuminate the front RH turn lamp through CKT 1315 or the front LH turn lamp through CKT 1314.
The rear turn signal lamps are directly controlled by the turn signal switch unlike the front turn signal lamps. During a right or left turn signal command, battery voltage is applied to the rear RH turn signal lamp through CKT 19 or the rear LH turn signal lamp through CKT 18. All turn signal lamps are grounded through CKT 150. Domestic/Canadian vehicles ground the front lamps by CKT 150 through Splice Pack #102 to G102. Export vehicles will ground the front lamps by CKT 150 through Splice Packs #100 and #101 to G102 or G101. All vehicles will ground the rear turn signal lamps by CKT 150 through Splice Packs #402 and #400 to G401.
St. Jude Donor '06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-'18-'19-'20
NCM Sinkhole Donor
Originally Posted by bestvettever
Hi, I would start by checking the grounds.
Read Below ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Turn Signal Lamps
When the ignition switch is moved to the ON or START position, battery voltage is applied to the ELEC flasher from the HAZ T/SG MiniFuse® #15 through CKT 1739. This battery voltage is then applied from the ELEC flasher to the turn signal switch through CKT 16.
During a right or left turn signal command, battery voltage is supplied from the turn signal switch to the instrument panel electrical center and the BCM using CKT 15 for the front RH turn signal or CKT 14 for the front LH turn signal. Within the instrument panel electrical center there are two micro relays (DRL R Micro Relay #38 and DRL L Micro Relay #40) which are used to determine whether the front turn signals or the front Daytime Running Lamps (DRL) are in operation. During normal driving, the BCM will ground CKT 1914 and CKT 1915 which will activate the two DRL relays and illuminate the front DRL lamps. During a turn signal request, the BCM will remove the grounds from CKT 1914 and CKT 1915 which then allows battery voltage to pass through the DRL Micro Relays and illuminate the front RH turn lamp through CKT 1315 or the front LH turn lamp through CKT 1314.
The rear turn signal lamps are directly controlled by the turn signal switch unlike the front turn signal lamps. During a right or left turn signal command, battery voltage is applied to the rear RH turn signal lamp through CKT 19 or the rear LH turn signal lamp through CKT 18. All turn signal lamps are grounded through CKT 150. Domestic/Canadian vehicles ground the front lamps by CKT 150 through Splice Pack #102 to G102. Export vehicles will ground the front lamps by CKT 150 through Splice Packs #100 and #101 to G102 or G101. All vehicles will ground the rear turn signal lamps by CKT 150 through Splice Packs #402 and #400 to G401.
A lot of this is way over my head, but after reading it, I have a question...
If there was a bad ground, wouldn't it effect both left and right at the same time? The way it has been acting is that one stops for a while (hours to days) then starts again. Then the other one randomly does the same thing. I have had several intermitten and self correcting problems in the last couple months. Perhaps the BCM is bad?
I have this problem RIGHT now My right turn signal flashes like someone on coke, while the left just blinks normally. Interested to find out what solution there is
St. Jude Donor '06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-'18-'19-'20
NCM Sinkhole Donor
Originally Posted by Sn00py
I have this problem RIGHT now My right turn signal flashes like someone on coke, while the left just blinks normally. Interested to find out what solution there is
Have you checked the lamps? It normally does the fast flash when one lamp is burned out. That is how the car tells you there is a bad lamp. Check the front and rear right to see which is not flashing, then replace that lamp. If that fixes the problem, then you have nothing to worry about. My problem seems to be much deeper.
A lot of this is way over my head, but after reading it, I have a question...
If there was a bad ground, wouldn't it effect both left and right at the same time? The way it has been acting is that one stops for a while (hours to days) then starts again. Then the other one randomly does the same thing. I have had several intermitten and self correcting problems in the last couple months. Perhaps the BCM is bad?
There are seperate grounds for each side, and with dirty grounds the problem can be very intermittent. I am not familiar with where these grounds are located, but you need to get a diagram and start cleaning them, and you will most likely solve your problem. I would post a diagram but you would need a set of them to trace them down and I can't post them like I can post text.. I'm sure there are guys on here that could tell you where the turn signal grounds and weather paks are.
Good Luck
OK, a month ago my left blinker started with rapid flash. I got home and checked the blinkers finding that the front left blinker was dead. I tried to change it, but found I only had a clear lamp and not an amber one as the original is, so I put it back with plans to pick up the right lamp later. Two days later, the blinker started working correctly again. A week later, it happened again for four days. Then self corrected again. Now it gets strange... This weekend I lost the front RIGHT blinker. After 400 miles of driving and several stop / start cycles, the right blinker came back too! An inspection of all lamps shows they are all fine. Even ran a continuity test on the lamps and shook them for good measure. What could cause this?
Just had this problem with mine David after driving home from the show yesterday. I had just replaced the bulb and it was rapiding (is that a word) again. It started working correctly after a while and then rapid again. I got in there today and found that the bulb was loose in the socket so it wasn't getting a good contact. If the filament is bad it could possibly do the same, so maybe changing the bulb will fix it.
Hi, cool Black, do they also sell muffler bearings, and left handed smoke shifters.
Peace
All kinds of cool stuff that can be VERY hard to find ......
* Elbow Grease
* Left Handed Metric screwdrivers
* 710 caps (see picture under Replacement Parts)
* Piston Return Springs
* Cross Drilled Brake Lines
MANY MANY MANY excellent products ..... I recently installed the Engine Oil Bypass Kit and my oil is staying crystal clear since it no longer has to circulate through that dirty engine ....
Last edited by BlackZ06; May 27, 2008 at 12:43 AM.
hello, I'm working through a windshield wiper issue on my 94, I've gone though the shop manual diagnostic and made it down to "check ckt 150 and if its ok replace the wiper motor assembly". Where can I find a schematic of circuit 150? I'd like to check it before I spring for more parts.
From: The artist formally known as NONO5.0 Mobile, Al
I delt with this issue and here's what fixed it for me. With the blub removed, you'll see two blades on one side of the socket where the bulb sits. What I did was take a flat head screwdriver and pry the blade toward the other blade to force it to make a better connection. (if you don't know what I mean, you will when you look at it; ya don't have to get crazy with it, and ya don't wana brake them...you just wana make the bulb have better contact in the socket) The other side has funny connectors and I couldn't see how make them wedge together the same way but just doing the side that you can do resolved the issue for me.
I won't say this happens in every case of intermittent blinker issues, but usually the filament in the lamp itself, simply breaks due to something called "electron travel". The filament is just laying there and various vibrations might jostle it back into contact where it broke, therefore it starts working again. Lamps are dirt-cheap, replace them first and if a problem still exists, then start digging for further issues.
I had a simular problem and found that the connector to the rear lights that is located within the rear wheel well was loose and very dirty. It also just flopped around rather easily. Cleaned it up, wire tied it securely and no more problem. The problem also would cause the blinkers to blink like mad and when ever you stepped on the brake pedal the DIC would dim slightly.