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Alt. voltage yo-yoing! WTF.....

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Old May 27, 2008 | 09:16 AM
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Default Alt. voltage yo-yoing! WTF.....

I'm about sick of the alternator swinging from 12.5 to 13.9 while driving/stopping. Fuel pressure drops, car feels a lil sluggish! As anyone come up with a fix? I've taken voltage reading from the back of the alt., had it tested, checked grounds, checked everything. And I know a bunch of other guys in my area with the exact same problem. Is there a fix or are we stuck?

Shahram
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Old May 27, 2008 | 09:33 AM
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My voltage kept swinging up & down by about 1 volt. It was apparent if you watched the clock digital read out it would flicker. My fix was to simply tighten the battery terminals.
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Old May 27, 2008 | 09:44 AM
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Originally Posted by white top
My voltage kept swinging up & down by about 1 volt. It was apparent if you watched the clock digital read out it would flicker. My fix was to simply tighten the battery terminals.

They're tight and clean.

Shahram
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Old May 27, 2008 | 10:16 AM
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Check the connections at the starter. The POSITIVE voltage coming off the alternator goes to the starter motor, then to the battery. Check that the connections are clean and tight at the starter.

CAUTION ... that cable is HOT at all times ... do not let a wrench contact the POSITIVE cable/post and metal parts of the car such as the engine.

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Old May 27, 2008 | 10:17 AM
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You might try a Big 3 upgrade. Not sure it would fix your problem, but at least you could all but eliminate the wiring as the problem. And its not that expensive to do.
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Old May 27, 2008 | 12:13 PM
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Originally Posted by bbentley40
You might try a Big 3 upgrade. Not sure it would fix your problem, but at least you could all but eliminate the wiring as the problem. And its not that expensive to do.
Big 3?

Shahram
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Old May 27, 2008 | 12:30 PM
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The battery could have an intermittant shorted cell.

Try a different battery to see if the voltage becomes stable.

If that doesn't fix it,I would take another hard look at the alternator.
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Old May 27, 2008 | 08:24 PM
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BlackZ06 gave you the first thing to try. If the nut isn't loose on the starter, the starter post may be burned internally. Disconnect the battery, use a wrench to turn the nut on the positive wire on the starter, if it won't tighten (the post turns), you'll need a starter. I've seen it twice now on two other people's cars. Both cars had headers, so maybe the heat fries the bakelite the post is insulated with, but that's just a guess. Check that before you start buying batteries and stuff.
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Old May 27, 2008 | 11:11 PM
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I would check the Alternator. One of our club members said his voltage readout would jump constantly even if driven at a steady speed. Then the car was acting up (sputtering). The fix was a new alt. The dealership told him $600. He told him no thanks and purchased a rebuilt one at AutoZone for like $200.00
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Old May 28, 2008 | 08:11 AM
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do you have an underdrive pulley? When you drive, the voltage should go up and when you come to a stop, the voltage should drop because the alternator is turning slower. If you have an underdrive pulley, the voltage will drop at a higher rpm than it would without it. Is this your complaint? The radiator fans probably draw the most current and when they're on, you should expect a voltage drop as well. The more current load you place on the alternator, the lower your voltage will be. This will be amplified at idle.
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Old May 28, 2008 | 08:56 AM
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Originally Posted by BLOWNBLUEZ06
do you have an underdrive pulley? When you drive, the voltage should go up and when you come to a stop, the voltage should drop because the alternator is turning slower. If you have an underdrive pulley, the voltage will drop at a higher rpm than it would without it. Is this your complaint? The radiator fans probably draw the most current and when they're on, you should expect a voltage drop as well. The more current load you place on the alternator, the lower your voltage will be. This will be amplified at idle.


Very good point!
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Old May 28, 2008 | 09:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Quicksilver Vert 01


Very good point!

No undy's for me. I just don't like the voltage drop when the fans come on or after some hot laps! I can't understand why these cars will not put out 13.7 or higher when there is a load or heat starts to build up like my other cars do. And we can't put a higher amp rating becuse the stupid "SYSTEM CHARGE FAULT" will keep coming on!

Shahram
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Old May 28, 2008 | 10:21 AM
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Did you check the starter post as has been suggested?
My car sits on 14.2 volts at idle with or without fans, at highway speed, it does not vary more than a few tenths of a volt. You haven't mentioned whether you checked the post on the starter and I have told you of two cases where it caused what you are seeing. Eventually, the starter will not turn over if you don't fix it. If you haven't checked it, at least take a look or stop asking for advice.
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Old May 28, 2008 | 11:44 AM
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Originally Posted by 65GGvert
Did you check the starter post as has been suggested?
My car sits on 14.2 volts at idle with or without fans, at highway speed, it does not vary more than a few tenths of a volt. You haven't mentioned whether you checked the post on the starter and I have told you of two cases where it caused what you are seeing. Eventually, the starter will not turn over if you don't fix it. If you haven't checked it, at least take a look or stop asking for advice.
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Old May 28, 2008 | 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by BlackZ06
Yep.....one of the first things that were checked. They were tight. No rust, no build up. Car fires right off without hesitation when starting.

Shahram
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Old May 28, 2008 | 03:24 PM
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Originally Posted by LRD VDR
Big 3?

Shahram
You can do a search for it (not just on Vettes either) to see what it is. But basically you add larger wires from the Alt to the battery, battery to ground and engine block to ground. I used 4ga wire for mine, some people use 2 or 0ga (but I think those generally have larger stereos or just like overkill..lol).

I dont know that this will solve your problem though. The stuff the others guys have said should be checked first (if you havent already). My car had a couple grounds work loose once and the nut attaching the power wire to the starter got loose once too. Any of these things can cause problems for you. BTW.. you did say you had checked that Alt and verified that it is actually varying right? I currently have a High Voltage issue with my car where the IPC reads 3-4 volts higher than the Alt is putting out. After much testing I am about 95% sure its the IPC itself that is messed up. I have one on order to fix it so we will see if thats it.
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Old May 28, 2008 | 03:48 PM
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Originally Posted by LRD VDR
I just don't like the voltage drop when the fans come on or after some hot laps! Shahram
It sounds like this isn't really a solvable problem. He did everything he can do to make sure there isn't a physical problem. (Had the alternator checked, had the battery checked) In my opinion, it is normal for the alternator output to decrease when the cooling fans kick on. After all, now your alternator is powering two additional motors.

I empathize because the Vettes have so much more detailed information than most cars do, and monitoring your DIC is addictive. Still I don't think there is an issue.

The guy who said that he could see his radio lights flicker had an issue, but if the only way you can tell is through the guage; probably not an issue.
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Old May 28, 2008 | 06:02 PM
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Originally Posted by LRD VDR
Yep.....one of the first things that were checked. They were tight. No rust, no build up. Car fires right off without hesitation when starting.

Shahram
If you believe you have checked grounds and other connections (such as the starter motor connections) then either:

* The voltage regulator on the alternator is flakey, or your PCM is flakey and is commanding the alternator on/off at the wrong times.

* Your battery has a bad cell

Since you say the car has no problem starting ... I'll go for the first one .... the voltage regulator is bad.

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Old May 28, 2008 | 08:07 PM
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Originally Posted by LRD VDR
No undy's for me. I just don't like the voltage drop when the fans come on or after some hot laps! I can't understand why these cars will not put out 13.7 or higher when there is a load or heat starts to build up like my other cars do. And we can't put a higher amp rating becuse the stupid "SYSTEM CHARGE FAULT" will keep coming on!

Shahram
13.7 volts output is perfectly normal for a HOT alternator.
The alternator's internal voltage regulator has built in temperature compensation,which LIMITS the output voltage when temperatures are hot.

This voltage limit is needed to minimize overcharging the battery,which can result in electrolyte loss.

A 12 volt battery has six 2.2 volt cells in series,which add up to 13.2
volts when it's FULLY charged.

I think you're asking a HOT alternator to output a voltage higher than
it's designed to do.
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Old May 28, 2008 | 10:15 PM
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I had the same issue and the connector for my alternator wiring harness was cracked. It was randomly shorting against the block. Spliced in a new connector and it was fixed.
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