Poor Handling C5
06-01-2008, 10:22 AM
#1
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Poor Handling C5
I just bought my first Corvette, a 98 vert with 35K miles on it. The car looks like new. I've spoken to both previous owners about mods they done, which is an aftermarket exhaust and new tires. This car does not have the sport suspension, has what they call the soft ride supension I think. The car, to me, seems to handle poorly. In curves, at normal speeds or slightly above normal, if I hit a bump (or on a tight curved bridge the steel concrete expansion joints) the rear end feels like it's trying to come around. The steering seems quick enough. If I let go of the wheel it runs straight. Any imperfections in the road and the front end trys to follow it. My wifes 2002 BMW 325 (with sport suspension) 'feels' like it handles much better. Am I just not used to it or is this typical and I just need to get comfortable with it? I expected this this to drive like it was on rails....not feeling that and missed that in my test drive before purchasing. I know, hard to diagnose online....I need to drive another one to see if it's similar in handling.
One other question, coolant temp, what's normal? Mine seems to run from something under 220 to something over in traffic.
One other question, coolant temp, what's normal? Mine seems to run from something under 220 to something over in traffic.
06-01-2008, 11:01 AM
#2
Safety Car
I have a different suspension .... but if it helps .....
The "tramlining" effect (following grooves and ruts in the road) is common on a C5. Partly it is the wide tires, partly the alignment specs. How old are the tires on the car (years .... not miles .... ???) Older tires will tend to tramline worse than new ones.
What brand and model are the tires ???
The rear end feeling like it wants to come around ..... that could also be the tires. They will "skip" more if they are older .... and some brands will tend to do it more than others.
Each suspension handles differently on a Corvette ... sounds like you have the FE1 suspension .... I'll let others chime in as I have the FE4 ..... feels different.
The "tramlining" effect (following grooves and ruts in the road) is common on a C5. Partly it is the wide tires, partly the alignment specs. How old are the tires on the car (years .... not miles .... ???) Older tires will tend to tramline worse than new ones.
What brand and model are the tires ???
The rear end feeling like it wants to come around ..... that could also be the tires. They will "skip" more if they are older .... and some brands will tend to do it more than others.
Each suspension handles differently on a Corvette ... sounds like you have the FE1 suspension .... I'll let others chime in as I have the FE4 ..... feels different.
06-01-2008, 11:43 AM
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I agree with the poor handling of the FE1.
I went from 1999 FE1 to the 2004 C5z06 shocks and they are great in combination with the C5z06 swaybars and endlinks . Thanks to Bob - Fichtner Chevrolet .
These shocks absorb the whams on bad routes perfekt but they are stiff and safe by highspeed on German autobahns. And all in combination with a very quick response characteristic. My tires are non-EMTs.
Great gain of an advantage with more on agility and safety
and comes near my BMW with M-suspension
I went from 1999 FE1 to the 2004 C5z06 shocks and they are great in combination with the C5z06 swaybars and endlinks . Thanks to Bob - Fichtner Chevrolet .
These shocks absorb the whams on bad routes perfekt but they are stiff and safe by highspeed on German autobahns. And all in combination with a very quick response characteristic. My tires are non-EMTs.
Great gain of an advantage with more on agility and safety
and comes near my BMW with M-suspension
06-01-2008, 01:49 PM
#4
Le Mans Master
Sounds like you have the stock runflats, if they are original they are very hard by now (10 years). They do bump steer and tramline. Make sure your swaybar ends are not broke (they are plastic).
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The term "tramlining" is being used to describe when directional control is disrupted by the vehicle's tendency to follow the longitudinal ruts and/or grooves in the road. It's name could be compared to the tram or trolley driver who does not steer because his vehicle follows the path established by the tracks.
Any vehicle can exhibit tramlining on certain areas of the highway because of uneven pavement or severe rutting. And all vehicles tramline to some degree rather than obediently following the driver's steering input. For example, there's usually at least a small change in steering resistance felt through the wheel when crossing an uneven expansion joint or asphalt junction during lane changes.
Noticeable increases in tramlining are frequently uncovered when drivers living in the snowbelt make the seasonal changeover from winter tires to summer tires, or when any driver upgrades the performance of their tires using either the same size or going to a "Plus Size" tire and wheel package. The reason that it becomes more pronounced then is because neither the typically narrower and softer handling winter tires nor the Original Equipment tires generate as much grip or responsiveness as the higher performance summer tires. Since the vehicle's suspension works as a complete package, a higher performance tire will also uncover any previously unnoticed looseness in the rest of the suspension.
Components
Tires have the most direct influence on tramlining because they are the part of the vehicle that comes into contact with the road (and the longitudinal ruts and/or grooves that exist there). Unfortunately anything that increases a high performance tire's responsiveness also increases its willingness to tramline.
High performance tires with short sidewalls that develop lots of cornering power at lower slip angles will be more susceptible to tramlining than standard All-Season passenger tires that develop less cornering force until their slip angle increases. A wider treaded tire will encounter more longitudinal ruts and/or grooves in the road than a narrow treaded tire. A tire with large tread blocks that transmits the driver's input to the road with great precision will also transmit the road's imperfections back to the vehicle's suspension. And because tires become more responsive as their tread depth wears away (which is why tires are shaved for competition and track use), a tire will become more likely to tramline as it wears.
Wheels can influence tramlining as well. Installing wider tires or a "Plus Size" tire and wheel package usually requires using wheels with a different offset then the vehicle's original wheels. In some cases, the new wheel will have slightly less offset than the original and in other cases, slightly more. It all depends on the vehicle's suspension design and available wheelwell clearances. You will even find that Original Equipment manufacturers often use different wheel offsets for their different diameter tire and wheel packages.
Usually the amount of offset change is kept to a minimum and vehicle tracking remains relatively unchanged. However it the offset is significantly different, it will alter the way the road forces are transmitted through the tire and wheel to the suspension. Therefore, large changes in wheel offset will increase the likelihood of tramlining.
Suspension bushings, ball joints and shock absorber mounts have a direct influence on tramlining as well. As miles are driven and the years go by, the suspension's wear parts will deteriorate as they age. This often happens so slowly that it isn't very noticeable. Over time the ever-increasing suspension wear permits play that eventually allows the tire to be directed by the irregularities of the road rather than be controlled by the suspension.
Imagine a worn suspension that allows a front wheel and tire to swing between the recommended 1/16-inch of toe-in and 1/16-inch of toe-out when it encounters a rut in the road. This 1/8-inch difference in the direction that the tire is pointed will result in the vehicle tramlining. Replace the worn part to remove the play and you will significantly reduce or remove the tramlining. Many drivers with higher mileage cars have reported that replacing worn suspension components has eliminated tramlining and made the car drive like it is new again...which I guess it essentially is!
Service Adjustments
Using higher tire pressures than recommended by the vehicle manufacturer for your driving conditions will unnecessarily stiffen the tire and make it even more willing to cause tramlining. If you are running higher tire pressures than necessary, simply dropping the tire pressures to those recommended by the vehicle manufacturer will help reduce tramlining.
Alignment settings can be key as well. The "camber" and "toe" settings both play a role in vehicle stability and the propensity for tramlining. Extreme positive or negative camber settings will make a vehicle more sensitive, especially when only one wheel encounters a longitudinal rut and/or groove at a time. Even if all the tires are "aimed" straight ahead when the vehicle is in motion, a tire that is "cambered" wants to turn. This is the result of the "camber thrust" generated by a leaning tire (it is also part of the explanation of how motorcycles turn). A vehicle suspension using lots of negative camber for competition or the track will experience more tramlining on the street.
Additionally, the drivers who use additional toe-out settings to encourage their vehicle to turn into corners better also encourage tramlining because the extra toe-out will reduce vehicle stability in a straight line.
In the case of the competition driver who uses non-factory alignment settings, the amount of tramlining that is acceptable has to be left up to the driver. For only street-driven cars, getting them aligned with negative camber and toe settings within the factory's specifications is an important first step.
Roads
On a multi-lane highway, usually the left lane offers the smoothest road surface because it sees the least amount of heavy truck traffic. Unfortunately, on many interstate highways, it's not legal to continually drive there (pull right except to pass). While the center lane can be almost as smooth on a six-lane highway, there can be exceptions. For example, in the case of I-94 between Chicago and Milwaukee, you will find that when the road was widened from two to three lanes, the center of the new center lane is on top of the original junction between the earlier two lanes. This means that vehicles traveling in the new center lane have their right hand tires on the original right hand truck lane and their left side tires are on the original left lane. This can cause an uncomfortable feeling for miles. Usually the right hand lanes are the least smooth because they are rutted by heavy truck traffic. When you drive in those lanes, or drive across them to exit the highway, it's possible that you'll find your vehicle may feel like it wants to follow the truck ruts and has a mind of its own.
Driving Style
If you experience tramlining, the main thing you want to remember is to keep both hands on the steering wheel in the proper "9- and 3-o'clock" positions. This will help you make the precise steering inputs that will help keep your vehicle on course. You sacrifice precise control if you drive with one hand on the wheel or both hands in the wrong place.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Corvette Cooling Fans Operation
The low speed cooling fan is commanded on when the coolant temperature reaches 108°C (226°F). It is turned off if the coolant temperature lowers to 104°C (219°F). The high speed cooling fan is commanded on when the coolant temperature reaches 113°C (235°F). It is turned off if the coolant temperature lowers to 108°C (226°F). When the A/C is on and the coolant temperature reaches 85°C (185°F), the low speed cooling fan will be turned on at vehicle speeds less than 56 kPh (35 mph).
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The term "tramlining" is being used to describe when directional control is disrupted by the vehicle's tendency to follow the longitudinal ruts and/or grooves in the road. It's name could be compared to the tram or trolley driver who does not steer because his vehicle follows the path established by the tracks.
Any vehicle can exhibit tramlining on certain areas of the highway because of uneven pavement or severe rutting. And all vehicles tramline to some degree rather than obediently following the driver's steering input. For example, there's usually at least a small change in steering resistance felt through the wheel when crossing an uneven expansion joint or asphalt junction during lane changes.
Noticeable increases in tramlining are frequently uncovered when drivers living in the snowbelt make the seasonal changeover from winter tires to summer tires, or when any driver upgrades the performance of their tires using either the same size or going to a "Plus Size" tire and wheel package. The reason that it becomes more pronounced then is because neither the typically narrower and softer handling winter tires nor the Original Equipment tires generate as much grip or responsiveness as the higher performance summer tires. Since the vehicle's suspension works as a complete package, a higher performance tire will also uncover any previously unnoticed looseness in the rest of the suspension.
Components
Tires have the most direct influence on tramlining because they are the part of the vehicle that comes into contact with the road (and the longitudinal ruts and/or grooves that exist there). Unfortunately anything that increases a high performance tire's responsiveness also increases its willingness to tramline.
High performance tires with short sidewalls that develop lots of cornering power at lower slip angles will be more susceptible to tramlining than standard All-Season passenger tires that develop less cornering force until their slip angle increases. A wider treaded tire will encounter more longitudinal ruts and/or grooves in the road than a narrow treaded tire. A tire with large tread blocks that transmits the driver's input to the road with great precision will also transmit the road's imperfections back to the vehicle's suspension. And because tires become more responsive as their tread depth wears away (which is why tires are shaved for competition and track use), a tire will become more likely to tramline as it wears.
Wheels can influence tramlining as well. Installing wider tires or a "Plus Size" tire and wheel package usually requires using wheels with a different offset then the vehicle's original wheels. In some cases, the new wheel will have slightly less offset than the original and in other cases, slightly more. It all depends on the vehicle's suspension design and available wheelwell clearances. You will even find that Original Equipment manufacturers often use different wheel offsets for their different diameter tire and wheel packages.
Usually the amount of offset change is kept to a minimum and vehicle tracking remains relatively unchanged. However it the offset is significantly different, it will alter the way the road forces are transmitted through the tire and wheel to the suspension. Therefore, large changes in wheel offset will increase the likelihood of tramlining.
Suspension bushings, ball joints and shock absorber mounts have a direct influence on tramlining as well. As miles are driven and the years go by, the suspension's wear parts will deteriorate as they age. This often happens so slowly that it isn't very noticeable. Over time the ever-increasing suspension wear permits play that eventually allows the tire to be directed by the irregularities of the road rather than be controlled by the suspension.
Imagine a worn suspension that allows a front wheel and tire to swing between the recommended 1/16-inch of toe-in and 1/16-inch of toe-out when it encounters a rut in the road. This 1/8-inch difference in the direction that the tire is pointed will result in the vehicle tramlining. Replace the worn part to remove the play and you will significantly reduce or remove the tramlining. Many drivers with higher mileage cars have reported that replacing worn suspension components has eliminated tramlining and made the car drive like it is new again...which I guess it essentially is!
Service Adjustments
Using higher tire pressures than recommended by the vehicle manufacturer for your driving conditions will unnecessarily stiffen the tire and make it even more willing to cause tramlining. If you are running higher tire pressures than necessary, simply dropping the tire pressures to those recommended by the vehicle manufacturer will help reduce tramlining.
Alignment settings can be key as well. The "camber" and "toe" settings both play a role in vehicle stability and the propensity for tramlining. Extreme positive or negative camber settings will make a vehicle more sensitive, especially when only one wheel encounters a longitudinal rut and/or groove at a time. Even if all the tires are "aimed" straight ahead when the vehicle is in motion, a tire that is "cambered" wants to turn. This is the result of the "camber thrust" generated by a leaning tire (it is also part of the explanation of how motorcycles turn). A vehicle suspension using lots of negative camber for competition or the track will experience more tramlining on the street.
Additionally, the drivers who use additional toe-out settings to encourage their vehicle to turn into corners better also encourage tramlining because the extra toe-out will reduce vehicle stability in a straight line.
In the case of the competition driver who uses non-factory alignment settings, the amount of tramlining that is acceptable has to be left up to the driver. For only street-driven cars, getting them aligned with negative camber and toe settings within the factory's specifications is an important first step.
Roads
On a multi-lane highway, usually the left lane offers the smoothest road surface because it sees the least amount of heavy truck traffic. Unfortunately, on many interstate highways, it's not legal to continually drive there (pull right except to pass). While the center lane can be almost as smooth on a six-lane highway, there can be exceptions. For example, in the case of I-94 between Chicago and Milwaukee, you will find that when the road was widened from two to three lanes, the center of the new center lane is on top of the original junction between the earlier two lanes. This means that vehicles traveling in the new center lane have their right hand tires on the original right hand truck lane and their left side tires are on the original left lane. This can cause an uncomfortable feeling for miles. Usually the right hand lanes are the least smooth because they are rutted by heavy truck traffic. When you drive in those lanes, or drive across them to exit the highway, it's possible that you'll find your vehicle may feel like it wants to follow the truck ruts and has a mind of its own.
Driving Style
If you experience tramlining, the main thing you want to remember is to keep both hands on the steering wheel in the proper "9- and 3-o'clock" positions. This will help you make the precise steering inputs that will help keep your vehicle on course. You sacrifice precise control if you drive with one hand on the wheel or both hands in the wrong place.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Corvette Cooling Fans Operation
The low speed cooling fan is commanded on when the coolant temperature reaches 108°C (226°F). It is turned off if the coolant temperature lowers to 104°C (219°F). The high speed cooling fan is commanded on when the coolant temperature reaches 113°C (235°F). It is turned off if the coolant temperature lowers to 108°C (226°F). When the A/C is on and the coolant temperature reaches 85°C (185°F), the low speed cooling fan will be turned on at vehicle speeds less than 56 kPh (35 mph).
Last edited by Oldvetter; 06-01-2008 at 01:56 PM.
06-01-2008, 04:01 PM
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You can reduce the tram lining to some extent by having the alignment set with some toe in. The C5 specs are wide and you need to tell the tech to set the alignment settings at the service preferred numbers without the tolerance. Then add just a small amount of toe in so the car isn't at zero toe.
The OEM run flats are very stiff so they can run 250 miles at 55 mph at zero pressure. The back will tend to bounce a little over certain bumps so you need to pay attention to your throttle control when pushing around a bumpy corner, etc. You should be able to run with the 3 series in the twisties. I was able to outrun most of them with my 97 Z51 when doing track events. M3s were a problem until I got my Z06.
If you throw a set of OEM Z06 wheels with a good set of non-run flats such as the Z06 supercar tire you will pick up a lot of the handling of the Z.
Temps you see are normal and you don't need to be concerned.
Bill
The OEM run flats are very stiff so they can run 250 miles at 55 mph at zero pressure. The back will tend to bounce a little over certain bumps so you need to pay attention to your throttle control when pushing around a bumpy corner, etc. You should be able to run with the 3 series in the twisties. I was able to outrun most of them with my 97 Z51 when doing track events. M3s were a problem until I got my Z06.
If you throw a set of OEM Z06 wheels with a good set of non-run flats such as the Z06 supercar tire you will pick up a lot of the handling of the Z.
Temps you see are normal and you don't need to be concerned.
Bill
06-01-2008, 10:01 PM
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I agree with all posted above a simple thing check the tire pressure should be 30lbs cold. Sounds like a great car with 35k. The shocks and the sway bars are a should do improvement just read the posts and that would be the first mod I'd do non run flat tires z06 sway bars with metal endlinks and c6z06shocks you will love that car. Check the radiator for debris the C5 is a hoover
06-01-2008, 10:20 PM
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I just bought my first Corvette, a 98 vert with 35K miles on it. The car looks like new. I've spoken to both previous owners about mods they done, which is an aftermarket exhaust and new tires. This car does not have the sport suspension, has what they call the soft ride supension I think. The car, to me, seems to handle poorly. In curves, at normal speeds or slightly above normal, if I hit a bump (or on a tight curved bridge the steel concrete expansion joints) the rear end feels like it's trying to come around. The steering seems quick enough. If I let go of the wheel it runs straight. Any imperfections in the road and the front end trys to follow it. My wifes 2002 BMW 325 (with sport suspension) 'feels' like it handles much better. Am I just not used to it or is this typical and I just need to get comfortable with it? I expected this this to drive like it was on rails....not feeling that and missed that in my test drive before purchasing. I know, hard to diagnose online....I need to drive another one to see if it's similar in handling.
One other question, coolant temp, what's normal? Mine seems to run from something under 220 to something over in traffic.
One other question, coolant temp, what's normal? Mine seems to run from something under 220 to something over in traffic.
06-01-2008, 10:21 PM
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I agree with the poor handling of the FE1.
I went from 1999 FE1 to the 2004 C5z06 shocks and they are great in combination with the C5z06 swaybars and endlinks . Thanks to Bob - Fichtner Chevrolet .
These shocks absorb the whams on bad routes perfekt but they are stiff and safe by highspeed on German autobahns. And all in combination with a very quick response characteristic. My tires are non-EMTs.
Great gain of an advantage with more on agility and safety and comes near my BMW with M-suspension
I went from 1999 FE1 to the 2004 C5z06 shocks and they are great in combination with the C5z06 swaybars and endlinks . Thanks to Bob - Fichtner Chevrolet .
These shocks absorb the whams on bad routes perfekt but they are stiff and safe by highspeed on German autobahns. And all in combination with a very quick response characteristic. My tires are non-EMTs.
Great gain of an advantage with more on agility and safety
and comes near my BMW with M-suspension
plus dont put it up with the bmw. totally 2 diff driving cars. I love the wife bmw in the handle over the vette. Get you a set of coilovers and more weight on the front and rear springs. and a set of koni,S SHOCKS the gold one,s..
06-01-2008, 10:40 PM
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yeah non run flats Z suspension and you will be set. As for comparing it to a BMW a vette is a straight line bada** torque car. The BMW is a less powerful car made for the windy roads so it should handle it better. With some work you can make your C5 handle nearly as good as it though.
06-01-2008, 11:31 PM
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I'm in the same boat. My car has 76000 on it now, and just bought it last weekend. I drove it 14 hours back home, and it was the worst ride I've been in! My 98 camaro with 95000 miles on it, slammed 2", rides better than this thing! I think it's the shocks as well, so I bought some Z06 shocks from a member here. Doesn't have runflats either. I'm taking it to the Chevrolet house tomorrow so they can look under it and check all the suspension out, just to check and see if something else might be wrong. Will be installing new wheels, tires, and the shocks when they get here, and have it aligned. Hope that fixes the problem. Also my tires are "cupped". I've heard that is a sign of worn out shocks and possibly bad alignment.
06-02-2008, 12:02 AM
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Both tramlining and poor ride are easily curable with 3 easy steps assuming your tires are still decent:
1. Upgrade shocks to C6z06 shocks
2. Upgrade sway bars to C6z06 bars with metal end links
3. Balance tires & have a 4 wheel alignment done (-0.4 neg camber max)
The change will be so dramatic, you'll find every excuse to drive the vette and look for the ruts in the road so you can drive over them and smile when your car tracks perfectly straight.
1. Upgrade shocks to C6z06 shocks
2. Upgrade sway bars to C6z06 bars with metal end links
3. Balance tires & have a 4 wheel alignment done (-0.4 neg camber max)
The change will be so dramatic, you'll find every excuse to drive the vette and look for the ruts in the road so you can drive over them and smile when your car tracks perfectly straight.
06-02-2008, 08:07 AM
#14
Melting Slicks
I changed the sways on my FE1 (base) suspension 2001 to the 2003 Z06 bars...larger and with aluminum end links...made a BIG difference...ride is a little to no less compliant but the minor "hobby horsing" I could get from the stock suspension is completely gone...
Bill
Bill
06-02-2008, 11:38 AM
#15
yeah non run flats Z suspension and you will be set. As for comparing it to a BMW a vette is a straight line bada** torque car. The BMW is a less powerful car made for the windy roads so it should handle it better. With some work you can make your C5 handle nearly as good as it though.
Sway bars, non runflats and shocks will help the horrid FE1 quite a bit, but upgraded springs will really tie the package together. My car was an FE1 car that is now running Hotchkiss Bars, '01 Z51 springs, BFG KD tires and Bilstein sport shocks. It's also lowered about 3/4". It corners flat as a pancake.
Last edited by 99C5JA1; 06-02-2008 at 11:41 AM.
06-02-2008, 06:38 PM
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Well I took mine to the dealership today. They said a tie rod end on the front is shot, and all 4 sway bar links need to be replaced because they are worn out. He said after those items are replaced and the Z06 shocks are installed, he said I will love the car!
06-02-2008, 10:29 PM
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Tires are Goodyear Eagle F1's. I spoke to the original owner and he said he had replaced them some time ago but he couldn't remember when. I didn't buy from the original owner, it'd been a while since he'd had it so he couldn't remember how long ago it'd been since he replaced them. They don't 'look' like the have 35K on them. Makes sense that run flats wouldn't handle as well since they are harder...but what are you guys doing for a spare without run flats? I do have the FE1 suspension. I still have some warranty left (3 months) I guess I'll have them check it over for other components that are worn/broken like sway bars.
Man I hate to go spend big $ on tires only to have the same problem. I'll double check the pressure on them, seems like they were higher than the 30 psi someone mentioned. Tires and/or front end alignment or worn parts is what it feels like as compared to some old cars I had in my youth (but that was a long time ago). I can't believe it's worn parts in 35K miles...but maybe it is.
I thought about shocks but didn't figure that would help with the wandering (trammling?).
Sounds like my coolant temp is ok. I will check the radiator for trash. Roger on these things being a Hoover...I checked the air cleaner last night, it was a K&N someone had put in it....full of what looked like pine needles.
Thanks for all the replies!
I learned something else tonight while out tooling around. Go around road kill....if you can. My other car is a 4wd truck....so road kill is not a problem....and I wasn't thinking about it. It looked like a medium racoon. It had already achieved room/pavement temperature by the time I got there. I couldn't go around (car coming). I could stop (car behind). What the heck. Surely I can clear that. Not. Looks like Danel Boones hat underneath the car now. Hair stuck on this and that. Luckily it didn't splatter...at least none that I could see.
Man I hate to go spend big $ on tires only to have the same problem. I'll double check the pressure on them, seems like they were higher than the 30 psi someone mentioned. Tires and/or front end alignment or worn parts is what it feels like as compared to some old cars I had in my youth (but that was a long time ago). I can't believe it's worn parts in 35K miles...but maybe it is.
I thought about shocks but didn't figure that would help with the wandering (trammling?).
Sounds like my coolant temp is ok. I will check the radiator for trash. Roger on these things being a Hoover...I checked the air cleaner last night, it was a K&N someone had put in it....full of what looked like pine needles.
Thanks for all the replies!
I learned something else tonight while out tooling around. Go around road kill....if you can. My other car is a 4wd truck....so road kill is not a problem....and I wasn't thinking about it. It looked like a medium racoon. It had already achieved room/pavement temperature by the time I got there. I couldn't go around (car coming). I could stop (car behind). What the heck. Surely I can clear that. Not. Looks like Danel Boones hat underneath the car now. Hair stuck on this and that. Luckily it didn't splatter...at least none that I could see.
06-02-2008, 10:50 PM
#20
Burning Brakes
-Alignment and/or worn suspension pieces.
- It is not the tires, my Z06 never did this and it's got wider tires than a normal C5 does.