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Does anyone modify the stock shifter rod to make a short shifter that makes no adverse noises? It looks relatively simple to do and would be a positive alternative to the straight bar B&M Ripper design. That rubber insert in the factory rod makes a huge difference in vibration and noise.
:chevy
Go buy a die at ACE hardeware and thread it on the shaft. Cut the threads about 1 inch longer. Keep the die on the shaft and cut off the shaft end. Back the die off and dress the end with a grinder. Get a **** that is threaded almost totally through and put is on.
To shorten the stroke, the rod needs to be lengthened on the lower end (below the mounting plate) like the B&M Ripper shifter. By moving the fulcrum, the stroke is shorter and tighter. Shortening the rod and threading it farther would also be beneficial, but I am more interested in the shorter tighter stroke. Thank you for responding.
:cheers:
The guys who have had noisy aftermarket shifters have been able to cure it with a variety of fixes. You might want to look into that before you get rid of your Ripper. They have used sound deadening material and wheel weights on the shaft. I have driven both Ripper and Kirbans, and have had no complaints with either.
no noise in my B&M Ripper, had it on for about 7k miles and about a year. I have heard of people cutting there shifter shorter, but for me the decision was based upon how loose the stock shifter was, too easy to miss a shift IMHO
I did exactly that on my home-made shifter. Feels fantastic, as quiet as stock, and shift **** at the same height as stock. Everyone who drive it says I should be selling them!
To shorten the stroke, the rod needs to be lengthened on the lower end (below the mounting plate) like the B&M Ripper shifter. By moving the fulcrum, the stroke is shorter and tighter. Shortening the rod and threading it farther would also be beneficial, but I am more interested in the shorter tighter stroke. Thank you for responding.
To shorten the stroke, the rod needs to be lengthened on the lower end (below the mounting plate) like the B&M Ripper shifter. By moving the fulcrum, the stroke is shorter and tighter. Shortening the rod and threading it farther would also be beneficial, but I am more interested in the shorter tighter stroke. Thank you for responding.
:cheers:
I realize what it takes to shorten the throw, I have a Kirban. Unless you are a machinist, you are not going to be able to use the stock shifter isolator. The isolator is also a heat shield and a shock damper for the shift mechanism. The reason aftermarket shifters are noisey has nothing to do with their lack of an isolator.
My Kirban has ZERO noise because I made a custom sound shield from fiberglass duct board.
The factory shifter is a piece of !!!! After mine came apart, at the rubber bushing, I drove it for 2 weeks and it drove better than before (except when the upper shaft would seperate from the lower). I've cut my ripper threads by an inch, the shifts feel positive and the noise level really isn't a problem thanks to a piece of dynamat.
Dynamat did not work. Wheel weights did nothing. Tried 3 shifter *****.
The problem is vibration, not external noise.
The factory rubber insert between the bottom end and the threads dampens the vibes and kills the noise totally.
I must need a louder exhaust to drown out the extra noise of the Ripper.
:chevy
Some have shortened the OEM shifter and taken the "mushiness" out of it by drilling one eighth inch holes, perpendicular to one another in the bottom of the shaft, the part which houses the rubber damper, and inserted roll-pins to stiffen it up.
When I installed my flame ball, I cut the stock shifter 1" and just screwed the Flameball on. Works like a charm, no problem. Just used a hacksaw blade.
jlamay: EXACTLY!! I did the same thing, works great. The smaller **** in combination with the shorter shaft really tightens the throws, and now it sits lower and doesn't block center console controls. For anyone who thinking about aftermarket...try this before you buy another shifter, you may be able to spend your bucks on something else. :yesnod:
99HT- can you tell me how you made the sound deadener for your kirban? I have one & i have a very slight vibration between 3000-4000 rpm. I just need to know what you used- i can take the shift console & boot with no problem. Thanks-Scott
I obtained a two inch thick piece of aluminum foil backed fiberglass duct board material. I used a very sharp knife to do all the cutting. I cut a rectangular hole in the piece designed to fit around the shifter, flush with the top of the tunnel, but extend down into the tunnel. I sculpted the fiberglass to sit conform to follow all the contours in the tunnel. The sound shield is UNDER the stock rubber seal.
Some have shortened the OEM shifter and taken the "mushiness" out of it by drilling one eighth inch holes, perpendicular to one another in the bottom of the shaft, the part which houses the rubber damper, and inserted roll-pins to stiffen it up.
This sounds interesting! Any pictures, or more detailed explanation?