Problem with EBCM & BPMV
#22
Safety Car
Well, I didn't sleep well last night. I know I'm getting screwed this time (I usually react faster, make better decisions, and fix myself).
I called two other Chev dealerships here in DFW area. One has EBCM for $925 and BPMV for $1,930. the other has EBCM for $1,070 and BPMV for $2,228. All these are before sales tax. Both dealerships are about $500 labor also.
Next time, I will put the wife in the old beat-up pick-truck, send these parts to someone to fix, and do it myself.
I appreciate everyone's input and think I've learned a lesson. I hate it when I feel I'm being taken advantage of.
I called two other Chev dealerships here in DFW area. One has EBCM for $925 and BPMV for $1,930. the other has EBCM for $1,070 and BPMV for $2,228. All these are before sales tax. Both dealerships are about $500 labor also.
Next time, I will put the wife in the old beat-up pick-truck, send these parts to someone to fix, and do it myself.
I appreciate everyone's input and think I've learned a lesson. I hate it when I feel I'm being taken advantage of.
http://www.gmpartshouse.com/
#24
Do dealers actually fix this problem?
There has been a lot of discussion of this problem on the sites. Are there good examples of letting the dealer fix the EBCM/BPMV problem and it actually works again?
I don't think I am alone in thinking this is a black hole for fix something, then something else, then something else. At the costs involved, you have to wonder if it is worth it.
I don't think I am alone in thinking this is a black hole for fix something, then something else, then something else. At the costs involved, you have to wonder if it is worth it.
#25
Safety Car
There has been a lot of discussion of this problem on the sites. Are there good examples of letting the dealer fix the EBCM/BPMV problem and it actually works again?
I don't think I am alone in thinking this is a black hole for fix something, then something else, then something else. At the costs involved, you have to wonder if it is worth it.
I don't think I am alone in thinking this is a black hole for fix something, then something else, then something else. At the costs involved, you have to wonder if it is worth it.
Obviously, if you're paying the total cost yourself, you might want to go the "repair the module (absfixer.com)" or DIY replacement route.
Last edited by fdxpilot; 09-10-2009 at 05:15 PM.
#26
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Both of my modules were replaced by the dealer in 2007. GMPP picked up the complete cost of the repair. Two years later and no issues.
Bill
Bill
#28
EBCTM repair
Sorry to hear about your problems. Electrical problems in your Corvette can be really agravating and hard to solve. I had the code 1214C problem, with the lights on the dash a couple of months ago. Went through all of the simple checks first, like checking all 13 of the grounds in the Vette, checking the fuses and conections at the battery.
Finally determined that the problem lay only with the EBCTM. I removed it and sent it off to ABSFIXER for repair. In less than a week, and for the total price of $150, I received my module in the mail. I quickly installed it and was very pleased that the lights were gone and the braking-handling-traction system were fixed. My 2002 Vette and I are very happy. ABSFIXER.com totally rocks!
Finally determined that the problem lay only with the EBCTM. I removed it and sent it off to ABSFIXER for repair. In less than a week, and for the total price of $150, I received my module in the mail. I quickly installed it and was very pleased that the lights were gone and the braking-handling-traction system were fixed. My 2002 Vette and I are very happy. ABSFIXER.com totally rocks!
#29
Burning Brakes
Bill is correct! There are some of us C5 drivers that put our cars through their paces on a regular basis and that will frequently cause the ABS and or Active Handling system to activate and control the brakes. That BPMV "USAGE" keeps things from malfunctioning.
Most Corvette owners are happy just to drive their cars in a way that seldom causes the BPMV motor to function. This allows components inside the brake hydraulic system to stick or act sluggishly.
In an effort to save you some cash you may want to SAFELY try this:
On a day when the roads are wet, (wet roads cause less wear and tear on the car) find a "SAFE" place where you can apply the brakes hard enough to LOCK UP the brakes. Clear ALL the DTCs and once their cleared,,,accelerate to approx 35-40 MPH and brake at full force. This will cause the tires to loose traction and the ANTI LOCK system and or the Active Handling will or should operate. If the system does NOT work normally, and the tires lock up and loose traction, ABORT. If you set a DTC and get a message, turn the ignition off and back on , reset the DTCs and repeat.
If you cant get the system to work normally after 3-4 attempts to cycle the motor,,,,your going to need to bite the bullet and replace the BPMV.
If you attempt to do the braking procedure PLEASE make sure you do it in a SAFE and LEGAL place where you will NOT damage your car.
This has helped quite a few people get their EBTCM and BPMV back in operation without having to replace the BPMV. There have been a few people who it has NOT helped.
Ill let you decide if you want to safely attempt the procedure.
Bill C
Most Corvette owners are happy just to drive their cars in a way that seldom causes the BPMV motor to function. This allows components inside the brake hydraulic system to stick or act sluggishly.
In an effort to save you some cash you may want to SAFELY try this:
On a day when the roads are wet, (wet roads cause less wear and tear on the car) find a "SAFE" place where you can apply the brakes hard enough to LOCK UP the brakes. Clear ALL the DTCs and once their cleared,,,accelerate to approx 35-40 MPH and brake at full force. This will cause the tires to loose traction and the ANTI LOCK system and or the Active Handling will or should operate. If the system does NOT work normally, and the tires lock up and loose traction, ABORT. If you set a DTC and get a message, turn the ignition off and back on , reset the DTCs and repeat.
If you cant get the system to work normally after 3-4 attempts to cycle the motor,,,,your going to need to bite the bullet and replace the BPMV.
If you attempt to do the braking procedure PLEASE make sure you do it in a SAFE and LEGAL place where you will NOT damage your car.
This has helped quite a few people get their EBTCM and BPMV back in operation without having to replace the BPMV. There have been a few people who it has NOT helped.
Ill let you decide if you want to safely attempt the procedure.
Bill C
#30
Safety Car
I'm getting the C 1243 H BPMV code constantly now, even after resets, so I tried your solution today (pouring rain). I skidded on and off for 50 miles resetting the codes occasionally to no avail. Now I'll try sending out the EBTCM for the fix. On the positive side I can state that Vredestein Tires are EXCELLENT in the wet! Had to do 50mph to 60 mph skids to get some time on the BPMV. Straight as an arrow!
#31
Le Mans Master
Even when it activates, some people who have never experienced how violent it can be, are spooked and do not let the system work.
Sometimes I wish my Z06 did not have ABS, Active Handling, or any of these systems that are supposed to "save me".
#32
Cruising
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Traction Control system
Depending on the original failure the diagnostic procedure leads the tech through a series of tests. Depending on the result of those tests the procedure could call for the replacement of the EBCM or both the EBCM and BPMV.
With Code C1243 the system has detected the pump motor running slowly this condition can cause the relay contacts in the EBCM to burn and if it had shown up on the original diagnosis probably would have resulted in both modules being replaced at that time.
There is no way to fix the BPMV so it needs to be replaced. Replacement means removing it from the hydraulic system so when it is replaced the brakes will have to be bled and the BPMV will have to be bled using a Tech 2.
If you do nothing your car will drive just fine. You will still have the base brake system which isn't affected by ABS system failures. However, you will not have ABS or Traction Control.
Bill
With Code C1243 the system has detected the pump motor running slowly this condition can cause the relay contacts in the EBCM to burn and if it had shown up on the original diagnosis probably would have resulted in both modules being replaced at that time.
There is no way to fix the BPMV so it needs to be replaced. Replacement means removing it from the hydraulic system so when it is replaced the brakes will have to be bled and the BPMV will have to be bled using a Tech 2.
If you do nothing your car will drive just fine. You will still have the base brake system which isn't affected by ABS system failures. However, you will not have ABS or Traction Control.
Bill
My car will just have the Traction system kick in and I have to shut it off to drive. There are no diagnostics codes that show up so I cannot identify the problem. Any ideas?
#33
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Did you PULL the codes or just expect to see them pop up in the DIC?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SviRjIsy9G4
OR
http://www.c5forum.com/ayc/dtcdic.php
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SviRjIsy9G4
OR
http://www.c5forum.com/ayc/dtcdic.php
#34
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No info in your post or your profile about the car....
What year? If pre-2001 does the car have the AH RPO?? ( JL4)
Next time the symptoms happen observe the message(s) if any that appear in the DIC while the symptom is occurring and post back here.
Also pull over as soon as possible after the symptoms occur and pull the codes BEFORE you shut off the engine. To pull codes with the engine running you must first use the reset button to clear all messages displayed in the DIC. Then pull codes as normal. Some codes are not saved to memory once the ignition is turned off. Post what you find.
What year? If pre-2001 does the car have the AH RPO?? ( JL4)
Next time the symptoms happen observe the message(s) if any that appear in the DIC while the symptom is occurring and post back here.
Also pull over as soon as possible after the symptoms occur and pull the codes BEFORE you shut off the engine. To pull codes with the engine running you must first use the reset button to clear all messages displayed in the DIC. Then pull codes as normal. Some codes are not saved to memory once the ignition is turned off. Post what you find.
#35
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Are you disabling TC or AH???
IF TC then what size tires are you running front and rear? Not having the proper tire size stagger rear to front can cause TC to step in when it should not and that does NOT set codes because it is doing what it should.
If AH then problems with the Steering Wheel Position Sensor can cause AH to activate when it should not. When the SWPS is beginning to fail it will often NOT set codes until the failure is more complete.
IF TC then what size tires are you running front and rear? Not having the proper tire size stagger rear to front can cause TC to step in when it should not and that does NOT set codes because it is doing what it should.
If AH then problems with the Steering Wheel Position Sensor can cause AH to activate when it should not. When the SWPS is beginning to fail it will often NOT set codes until the failure is more complete.
#36
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I just checked an I have 265/35ZR18 on the rear. They say the specs call for 275/40Zr18. Would this effect the traction control?
#37
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Tire size depend upon the wheel size(s)you are running. I can't tell you what size you should be running if I don't know the wheel size(s). On a previously owned car (and anyones guess how many previous owners) the wheels may not be factory any longer.
That is why I asked you to tell US what sizes are on the front and rear.
If you have AH as you said then putting the car into Comp mode is turning off the AH.
Again we don't know exactly what you are doing/turning off so you need to tell US and not US tell you.............
That is why I asked you to tell US what sizes are on the front and rear.
If you have AH as you said then putting the car into Comp mode is turning off the AH.
Again we don't know exactly what you are doing/turning off so you need to tell US and not US tell you.............
#38
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I edited my previous post but that will not make a difference in your problem.
TC is being enabled due to the tire sizes you are running.
General rule of thumb for the C5 is that the overall diameter of the rear tire needs to be 1/2" to 1 1/2" LARGER than the overall diameter of the front tire to avoid TC issues.
The OD of the front 245/45-17 is 25.6"
The OD of the rear 265/35-18 is 25.3"
So your rear tires have a smaller overall diameter than the front. To run that setup you will have to disable TC every time you start the car.
THere are definitely tire combinations that can be run on the 17" front and 18" rear wheels that will not cause that problem.
What wheels does the car have?? Factory "wagon wheels"?? Factory thin spokes?? Aftermarket wheels? If aftermarket wheels do you know the width of the front and back wheels???
TC is being enabled due to the tire sizes you are running.
General rule of thumb for the C5 is that the overall diameter of the rear tire needs to be 1/2" to 1 1/2" LARGER than the overall diameter of the front tire to avoid TC issues.
The OD of the front 245/45-17 is 25.6"
The OD of the rear 265/35-18 is 25.3"
So your rear tires have a smaller overall diameter than the front. To run that setup you will have to disable TC every time you start the car.
THere are definitely tire combinations that can be run on the 17" front and 18" rear wheels that will not cause that problem.
What wheels does the car have?? Factory "wagon wheels"?? Factory thin spokes?? Aftermarket wheels? If aftermarket wheels do you know the width of the front and back wheels???
#39
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Nice looking car.
THose are the OEM "wagon wheels". OEM tire sizes were:
Front- 245/45-17
Rear- 275/40-18
The front tire now on the car is correct. The rear tire that is OEM size will have an overall diameter of 26.7" or just over an inch taller than those on the rear of the car now.
If you bought the car from a dealer and they put those sizes on the car I would go back and get them to install the correct rear size. If it was a private party deal then I would talk to the seller and see if you can reach some mutually agreeable adjustment. JMHO
THose are the OEM "wagon wheels". OEM tire sizes were:
Front- 245/45-17
Rear- 275/40-18
The front tire now on the car is correct. The rear tire that is OEM size will have an overall diameter of 26.7" or just over an inch taller than those on the rear of the car now.
If you bought the car from a dealer and they put those sizes on the car I would go back and get them to install the correct rear size. If it was a private party deal then I would talk to the seller and see if you can reach some mutually agreeable adjustment. JMHO
Thanks again!