[a/c problem]Usual warm driver side/cool pass. side BUT
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 21,766
Likes: 25
From: The artist formally known as NONO5.0 Mobile, Al
[a/c problem]Usual warm driver side/cool pass. side BUT
I have the very common issue of the a/c is cooling fine on the passenger side, but warm on the driver side. Sometimes the driver side will, out of the blue, start cooling though. I've searched the forum and found out that usually the cause is a bad drivers side actuator BUT from what I've read, there is a new 2001 actuator that is supposed to fix the issue. My car is a '01 and I'm wondering if I already have the upgraded part. If so what else could be causing the problem or is it pretty much gonna be the actuator? BTW, my digital display doesn't work at all...but I ASSume that wouldn't be an issue....or could it? 
Sorry for YET another a/c thread, but thanks for any help!
Sorry for YET another a/c thread, but thanks for any help!
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 100
Likes: 5
It sounds like you need to recharge your R134. You can either go to Walmart/AutoZone/Checker and get the stuff yourself, or have a proffesional look at it.
It may be the actuator, but I would guess it's the refrigerant level. The plus side is that R134 is something you can "Top Off" yourself without having to take your dash apart. Even if it is not the root cause of the problem, it won't hurt to put the right amount in your system.
And, you can buy a can with a guage on it for less than $20.
In my mind it is definitely rhe place to start.
It may be the actuator, but I would guess it's the refrigerant level. The plus side is that R134 is something you can "Top Off" yourself without having to take your dash apart. Even if it is not the root cause of the problem, it won't hurt to put the right amount in your system.
And, you can buy a can with a guage on it for less than $20.
In my mind it is definitely rhe place to start.
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 21,766
Likes: 25
From: The artist formally known as NONO5.0 Mobile, Al
I read the codes the first night I got them, but like an idiot 
I cleared them out because they were H not C's. I do believe though that they were the codes for the actuator issue. I'll double check later today. So, since I have a '01 would I have the updated actuators? If so, will taking the actuator apart and re-gearing it possibly fix my issue or does that just work on the old actuators?
Ohh and also, I did check the freon level out and it shows being fine
Thanks for the responses!
Last edited by at88mph; Jun 30, 2008 at 02:21 PM.
Pro
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 735
Likes: 7
From: Bucks County Pa
AC Problem
Excerpt from previous post
Hi, the first thing to know, is the car the dual zone auto system, or manual with 3 dials.
If it is a manual system, then you probably are low on refridgerant, and need to add some up to the proper amount, add a bit of ref oil with it.
If the car is the dual zone system, then you can try to re calibrate your actuators, by turning the key to on position, and pulling fuse#27 which is in the pass side footwell electric center, wait a minute and replace the fuse. If that doesn't fix the problem, then check the refridgerant pressures. If they check out good, then you may have a control head problem, or a bad actuatot door, or both.
On both systems you should confirm that your vacuum lines are not broken or loose, the main vacuum line comes from a port on the back of the intake manifold, and routes through the wire harness over to the vacuum tank in the wheelwell area under the battery and battery tray, it then goes into the car through the firewall and connects to the vacuum distributor located behind the lower insulator pad in the dash on the pass side behind the glove box.From there the lines go to the various mode, heat, and air controllers. The actuator doors for left and right on the dual zone system are controlled by electric motors
Good Luck
Hi, the first thing to know, is the car the dual zone auto system, or manual with 3 dials.
If it is a manual system, then you probably are low on refridgerant, and need to add some up to the proper amount, add a bit of ref oil with it.
If the car is the dual zone system, then you can try to re calibrate your actuators, by turning the key to on position, and pulling fuse#27 which is in the pass side footwell electric center, wait a minute and replace the fuse. If that doesn't fix the problem, then check the refridgerant pressures. If they check out good, then you may have a control head problem, or a bad actuatot door, or both.
On both systems you should confirm that your vacuum lines are not broken or loose, the main vacuum line comes from a port on the back of the intake manifold, and routes through the wire harness over to the vacuum tank in the wheelwell area under the battery and battery tray, it then goes into the car through the firewall and connects to the vacuum distributor located behind the lower insulator pad in the dash on the pass side behind the glove box.From there the lines go to the various mode, heat, and air controllers. The actuator doors for left and right on the dual zone system are controlled by electric motors
Good Luck
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,498
Likes: 3
From: Sacramento CA
If he has a digital display (as he stated from the first post) it is not a manual three dial HVAC, but rather the climate control.
If you have the new style actuators, they are not serviceable from what I have heard, and you will need to replace the bad one or both, depending on your codes. If you experience the problem with your HVAC the codes should re-appear. There are specific codes for the left and right side actuators.
If you have the new style actuators, they are not serviceable from what I have heard, and you will need to replace the bad one or both, depending on your codes. If you experience the problem with your HVAC the codes should re-appear. There are specific codes for the left and right side actuators.
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Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 21,766
Likes: 25
From: The artist formally known as NONO5.0 Mobile, Al
If you have the new style actuators, they are not serviceable from what I have heard, and you will need to replace the bad one or both, depending on your codes. If you experience the problem with your HVAC the codes should re-appear. There are specific codes for the left and right side actuators.
Does anyone know the part number for the actuators? I searched but couldn't find them.BTW, my digital display has NOTHING showing on it. All the lighting works and all the buttons seem to work, but the display shows nothing. I'm assuming that the display not working has nothing to do with my issue though correct?
Last edited by at88mph; Jun 30, 2008 at 03:41 PM.
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,498
Likes: 3
From: Sacramento CA
It looks like the PN is 89018365. This thread has a ton of good information: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...=Hvac+actuator
Here is my thread: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=2056687
The digital display issue is most likely a seperate issue, and you will probably need to purchase another control unit to get that issue resolved. I have seen some threads on repairing them, maybe you could have some luck trying a search?
Here is my thread: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=2056687
The digital display issue is most likely a seperate issue, and you will probably need to purchase another control unit to get that issue resolved. I have seen some threads on repairing them, maybe you could have some luck trying a search?
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 100
Likes: 5
My car was in an accident, and afterwards the Digital Display went dim. I could tap on it and it would return to normal. This wasn't oo worrysome because it seems to be a common problem.
WHAT WAS AN ISSUE was that my passenger A/C wasn't working. It would only blow HOT air. The dealer looked at the problem and quoted me $650 to replace the actuator. I took it to my Mechanic to have the actuator changed. He told me that when he applied power to the actuators they moved so he doubted that was the problem.
It turns out that when the A/C Head Unit fisplay broke, it also broke the part that controlled the Passenger Actuators.
I bought a new head unit, pulled fuse 27 and everything was ok.
The bummer part is that I paid $250 for a passenger side actuator.
SO, as in all problems, I encourage you to start with the small/Most obvious stuff first. If the head unit seems to be not working, fit that first.
WHAT WAS AN ISSUE was that my passenger A/C wasn't working. It would only blow HOT air. The dealer looked at the problem and quoted me $650 to replace the actuator. I took it to my Mechanic to have the actuator changed. He told me that when he applied power to the actuators they moved so he doubted that was the problem.
It turns out that when the A/C Head Unit fisplay broke, it also broke the part that controlled the Passenger Actuators.
I bought a new head unit, pulled fuse 27 and everything was ok.
The bummer part is that I paid $250 for a passenger side actuator.
SO, as in all problems, I encourage you to start with the small/Most obvious stuff first. If the head unit seems to be not working, fit that first.
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 21,766
Likes: 25
From: The artist formally known as NONO5.0 Mobile, Al
It looks like the PN is 89018365. This thread has a ton of good information: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...=Hvac+actuator
Here is my thread: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=2056687
Here is my thread: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=2056687
Thanks!
I had checked out that link but I did have a couple of questions about it.
I notice on one post the part number for the drivers side actuator is 89018365, but on post #51 it shows the part number ac-delco: 15-72971. http://www.google.com/products?q=ACD...oogle&ct=title
There is a big difference in price ($130 compared to $35) Do they both work; are they the same?
I also noticed that depending on the year you have, one is servicable and one isn't...I don't know which one I have since my car is an '01, but all things being equal, I'd think I'd rather get the one I can service than the one that can't be.
The digital display issue is most likely a seperate issue, and you will probably need to purchase another control unit to get that issue resolved. I have seen some threads on repairing them, maybe you could have some luck trying a search?
There's a guy on ebay who does them. He rebuit the one on my '99 FRC.Thanks again everyone for the replys!
Intermediate
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
I have an '01 that had that problem. Both problems in fact. I fixed them both myself and here is how:
Remove the driver's actuator and adjust the gear one tooth.
Resolder the resistors in the control unit. It's the flat ones on the back side PCB. My wife did it, she worked at Pentax in the Phillipines soldering PCBs and man she is great at it. All you have to do is touch them real quick with the soldering iron.
Remove the driver's actuator and adjust the gear one tooth.
Resolder the resistors in the control unit. It's the flat ones on the back side PCB. My wife did it, she worked at Pentax in the Phillipines soldering PCBs and man she is great at it. All you have to do is touch them real quick with the soldering iron.
Intermediate
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...7&forum_id=103
The link to the forum page. Click on the Buick link in the middle. Or here:
http://www.regalgs.org/climate.htm
The link to the forum page. Click on the Buick link in the middle. Or here:
http://www.regalgs.org/climate.htm
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 21,766
Likes: 25
From: The artist formally known as NONO5.0 Mobile, Al
Actually my problem *may* be with the digital display unit itself. I just went outside and pulled fuse #27 again and replaced it after a couple of minutes and then drove the car. (only owned it 4 days) Just for the heck of it, I turned the main **** (drivers side control ****) to the heat side....naturally the passenger side and drivers side got warmer. HOWEVER, when I went to spin it back down to cool, it wouldn't....so now both sides were warm. 
I hit the 'auto' button and that did something....I kept on and kept on with the **** though...spinning it slow and fast....eventually it got cool. I have no idea.
I hit the 'auto' button and that did something....I kept on and kept on with the **** though...spinning it slow and fast....eventually it got cool. I have no idea.
Intermediate
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
Mine would do that too. Anytime you try to adjust the temp **** the whole thing went crazy. I think that the actuator door is bent and thus the readings that get sent back to the control is out of acceptable range and thus you will get the code.
Cause
The HVAC controller unit and the TEMP door actuator motors rely on a feedback system that supplies the controller with count values in order to accurately adjust the air temperature. When battery power is interrupted to the HVAC controller, the current actuator position values are lost. When power is restored, the controller will perform a "sweep test" of the doors from full cold to full hot and record the end values for reference. Over time, the TEMP doors may develop some flexing when run to their extremes. This flexing allows the count values to run out of range (beyond 0-255) and results in DTC code B0361 or B0441 to set.
Thus reindexing (counter clockwise two teeth) the actuator solves the problem.
Cause
The HVAC controller unit and the TEMP door actuator motors rely on a feedback system that supplies the controller with count values in order to accurately adjust the air temperature. When battery power is interrupted to the HVAC controller, the current actuator position values are lost. When power is restored, the controller will perform a "sweep test" of the doors from full cold to full hot and record the end values for reference. Over time, the TEMP doors may develop some flexing when run to their extremes. This flexing allows the count values to run out of range (beyond 0-255) and results in DTC code B0361 or B0441 to set.
Thus reindexing (counter clockwise two teeth) the actuator solves the problem.
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 1,049
Likes: 2
From: Houston TEXAS
I had the same problem on my coupe last year. Initially pulled fuse 27 to reset blendoors. Fixed the problem then it returned a month later. Pasenger side always cool, drivers side hit and miss. Problem was, A/C was down to 1/2 a pound of 134A. The C5 system is supposed to have 1.5 lbs of refrigerant in the system. Charged to factory specs-Gremlin Gone! Total cost $45.00 Hope it works for you, but start with the cheap stuff first 
Hope it works for you, but start with the cheap stuff first
Pro
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 735
Likes: 7
From: Bucks County Pa
AC Problems
Actually my problem *may* be with the digital display unit itself. I just went outside and pulled fuse #27 again and replaced it after a couple of minutes and then drove the car. (only owned it 4 days) Just for the heck of it, I turned the main **** (drivers side control ****) to the heat side....naturally the passenger side and drivers side got warmer. HOWEVER, when I went to spin it back down to cool, it wouldn't....so now both sides were warm. I hit the 'auto' button and that did something....I kept on and kept on with the **** though...spinning it slow and fast....eventually it got cool. I have no idea.
I hit the 'auto' button and that did something....I kept on and kept on with the **** though...spinning it slow and fast....eventually it got cool. I have no idea. Good Luck
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,498
Likes: 3
From: Sacramento CA
Just to chime in really quick:
Did you happen to pull the codes? Were there any?
If so you need to look into the actuators.
Some say replace the head unit, but that is going to cost over 100 bucks. In my opinion, I would do what does not cost money. I would pull the dash, (not that hard) and pull the actuators. BOTH of my actuators were physically broken! In one of them the top gear was completely split in two. The other one was on the way to being completely split. I HAD to replace both actuators, and my dad happened to have two extra ones.
Another note on the new actuators: You can no longer purchase the serviceable actuators brand new. If you want the old style you have to buy them used. I am not sure about the part numbers, but the more expensive one is probably the correct part number.
EDIT: I looked up the two part numbers and it looks like they are the same. They have the same cost.
Did you happen to pull the codes? Were there any?
If so you need to look into the actuators.
Some say replace the head unit, but that is going to cost over 100 bucks. In my opinion, I would do what does not cost money. I would pull the dash, (not that hard) and pull the actuators. BOTH of my actuators were physically broken! In one of them the top gear was completely split in two. The other one was on the way to being completely split. I HAD to replace both actuators, and my dad happened to have two extra ones.
Another note on the new actuators: You can no longer purchase the serviceable actuators brand new. If you want the old style you have to buy them used. I am not sure about the part numbers, but the more expensive one is probably the correct part number.
EDIT: I looked up the two part numbers and it looks like they are the same. They have the same cost.
Last edited by Jackal; Jul 2, 2008 at 10:20 AM.
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 21,766
Likes: 25
From: The artist formally known as NONO5.0 Mobile, Al
***UPDATE (incase someone searches the forum and finds this thread) I feel like a complete idiot!!!! I took it by an a/c shop and it turns out I WAS a little FLIPPIN LOW ON FREON!!!
With that said, USE A GOOD SET OF GAUGES to read your level!! I got one of those cans with the built in guage on it and it wasn't accurate for crap! So the lesson here is don't go by those. Have someone hook a good set of gauges up to it! With that being said 
Thanks again to EVERYONE for all their help with this issue.
I took it by an a/c shop and it turns out I WAS a little FLIPPIN LOW ON FREON!!! With that said, USE A GOOD SET OF GAUGES to read your level!! I got one of those cans with the built in guage on it and it wasn't accurate for crap! So the lesson here is don't go by those. Have someone hook a good set of gauges up to it! With that being said Thanks again to EVERYONE for all their help with this issue.