torque tube guts
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,585
Likes: 15
From: New Hartford IA
torque tube guts
Has anyone purchased the guts for the torque tube? I'm talking about everything inside of the tube. Input shaft, two bearings, two rubber couplers, etc, etc. I might need the tube guts if my clutch/flywheel are not found to be the problem (minor vibration). Whats the best place to buy it? I'd like to get the the current stuff looked at, but it's not easy to find someone to service this type of driveshaft. I've chacked the couplings and bearings which are good. Either the input shaft or driveshaft part of the torque tube are bad (if it's not the clutch).
Last edited by slow ride; Jul 2, 2008 at 05:54 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 2,094
Likes: 5
From: The 7th layer of hell - Western Washington
Got the bearings from GM (3 total) and the couplers from DRM (you can also order them from Bovarian Motor Works).
The shop that did my clutch swap also did the driveline rebuild, said it was a real PITA and he had to buy a special pair of snap ring plyers to get the job done...
The shop that did my clutch swap also did the driveline rebuild, said it was a real PITA and he had to buy a special pair of snap ring plyers to get the job done...
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,585
Likes: 15
From: New Hartford IA
I've had all the stuff out to look at it and yes the big snap ring is a PITA. The only parts suspect to me are the input shaft and actual aluminum shaft. I don't think you can buy those two parts seperate (someone let me know if I'm wrong). Anybody else have experiance?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 2,618
Likes: 5
From: Overland Park KS
I've had all the stuff out to look at it and yes the big snap ring is a PITA. The only parts suspect to me are the input shaft and actual aluminum shaft. I don't think you can buy those two parts seperate (someone let me know if I'm wrong). Anybody else have experiance?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 5,130
Likes: 3
From: Winter Park FL
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 2,966
Likes: 22
From: Frederick Maryland
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11
I used a BMW rubber bushing for the front and a billet aluminum for the rear. The parts cost me $200 for both shipped. You really don't need to upgrade to a Z06 tube (they do have bigger diameter shaft). Fartpipe runs 11.02 @ 126 with this same setup. Click on this link, I did the bushing while I was replacing my trans/rear.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=2053182
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=2053182
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Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,585
Likes: 15
From: New Hartford IA
Again, I'm not sure if I'll need this or not, but just trying to line up parts if need be. I have a 02' zo6 so I already have the better torque tube. My couplings are both fine and I plan to stay with the rubber style ones. I'm just not sure if I tweaked the input shaft (which should eat up the pilot bearing, but mine is fine) or have a slight tweak in the shaft.
My problems might just be in the clutch, but I just want to find out what the best place to buy the parts (not the couplings).
My problems might just be in the clutch, but I just want to find out what the best place to buy the parts (not the couplings).
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,475
Likes: 97
From: KY/TN
St. Jude Donor '13-'14-'15-'16
A complete prop shaft is shown in the parts manual, which includes new couplers, bearings, etc... Obviously there are several part numbers. If I remember correctly the one for my 02 Z listed for $550 on Gene's website.
FWIW, According to the manual you should not separate the input shaft, propeller shaft, couplings, or bearing housing assembly, unless required. These components are balanced as an assembly. Disassembly and improper assembly of the components may cause vehicle driveline vibration.
If the input shaft, couplings, propeller shaft, or bearing housing assembly must be separated, the components must be marked prior to disassembly. During assembly, the components must be returned to their original position and location.
FWIW, According to the manual you should not separate the input shaft, propeller shaft, couplings, or bearing housing assembly, unless required. These components are balanced as an assembly. Disassembly and improper assembly of the components may cause vehicle driveline vibration.
If the input shaft, couplings, propeller shaft, or bearing housing assembly must be separated, the components must be marked prior to disassembly. During assembly, the components must be returned to their original position and location.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,585
Likes: 15
From: New Hartford IA
Well everything is out again and after looking at some things I have a question. Has anyone spun the torque tube and watched the input shaft spin on the other end? Did you see any runout (even just a tiny bit)? The couplings are fine(not origional) and the shaft seems stright to the eye, but the input shaft has a tiny bit of runout. I don't have another tube here to compare it to though.
I ended up balancing the clutch and it was 20 grams out. I'm 95% sure this was the cause of my vibration, but I'm not sure about the input shaft on the torque tube. Can anyone spin a known good tube and tell me what you see
Only reason I'm nervous about the input shaft is I found a bad pilot bearing, but that could have been caused during install last time. The bearing wasn't causing any problems and the old bearing before this one was fine, but I replaced it when switching clutches. I should just replace the whole damn thing, but I don't like to wast money on something I might not need. Help a brother out
I ended up balancing the clutch and it was 20 grams out. I'm 95% sure this was the cause of my vibration, but I'm not sure about the input shaft on the torque tube. Can anyone spin a known good tube and tell me what you see
Only reason I'm nervous about the input shaft is I found a bad pilot bearing, but that could have been caused during install last time. The bearing wasn't causing any problems and the old bearing before this one was fine, but I replaced it when switching clutches. I should just replace the whole damn thing, but I don't like to wast money on something I might not need. Help a brother out
Last edited by slow ride; Jul 23, 2008 at 11:06 PM.
Pro
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 619
Likes: 1
From: ATLANTA GA
Well everything is out again and after looking at some things I have a question. Has anyone spun the torque tube and watched the input shaft spin on the other end? Did you see any runout (even just a tiny bit)? The couplings are fine(not origional) and the shaft seems stright to the eye, but the input shaft has a tiny bit of runout. I don't have another tube here to compare it to though.
I ended up balancing the clutch and it was 20 grams out. I'm 95% sure this was the cause of my vibration, but I'm not sure about the input shaft on the torque tube. Can anyone spin a known good tube and tell me what you see
Only reason I'm nervous about the input shaft is I found a bad pilot bearing, but that could have been caused during install last time. The bearing wasn't causing any problems and the old bearing before this one was fine, but I replaced it when switching clutches. I should just replace the whole damn thing, but I don't like to wast money on something I might not need. Help a brother out
I ended up balancing the clutch and it was 20 grams out. I'm 95% sure this was the cause of my vibration, but I'm not sure about the input shaft on the torque tube. Can anyone spin a known good tube and tell me what you see
Only reason I'm nervous about the input shaft is I found a bad pilot bearing, but that could have been caused during install last time. The bearing wasn't causing any problems and the old bearing before this one was fine, but I replaced it when switching clutches. I should just replace the whole damn thing, but I don't like to wast money on something I might not need. Help a brother out
I put new coupler bushings in mine when I did my clutch. I spun the shaft just like you did and the imput shaft spun out of round too.. I was paranoid this woild be a vibration issue..
I took the tube back apart and looked at it again thinking I didnt do something right, but sure enough it was fine.. So i said screw it and put it in and it hasnt had a problem..
Keep in mind the shaft is bolted to the ruber bushing, and it rests on the pilot bearing. I held it real firm where the pilot bearing would hold it and I didnt notice any real runout at that time. The pilot bearing plays a key role in supporting that shaft, and eliminating the out of round.
You should be fine
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,585
Likes: 15
From: New Hartford IA
Thanks for the response. After speaking to RPM and a friend of mine I'm confident that most torque tube input shafts will look like they have just a touch of runout when spun by hand. Without the pilot bearing to support the shaft it's hard to keep the input shaft centered since it is bolted to a piece of rubber on one end as you said.
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 173
Likes: 0
From: Palm Desert Ca
Had to replace complete Torque Tube assy a few years ago om my 02 A4 Coupe. Had a vibe at 2000 RPM. Turned out that the Front Bearing race had spun in the housing. No fix, only replacement. Complete unit was $2300 from GM. I thought they should have repaced the tube and reused the shaft - replacing bearings and coupler.
When the dealer found the problem, they discovered the clamp coupling at the flywheel was loose - maybe 40# instead of 95# or so. Car had 35000 miles on it, but had the Tranny replaced for defect under warranty at 4000 by another dealer before I got the car.
Phil
When the dealer found the problem, they discovered the clamp coupling at the flywheel was loose - maybe 40# instead of 95# or so. Car had 35000 miles on it, but had the Tranny replaced for defect under warranty at 4000 by another dealer before I got the car.
Phil
