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I am not a mechanic so bear with me. My 01 coupe just put the service engine light on. A mechanic friend who works for Ford scanned with a $150 tool and seems to think it is an oxygen sensor, number one bank, second cylinder. [He suggested I get a dealer scan to be sure] My question: is there an oxygen sensor on each cylinder? Are they easy to find? THANKS in advance for any help.
Use your built in scan procedure from your insturment cluster and post the numbers. We can read them for you then.
I forgot about that procedure! Thanks.
Now, it has been 2 years since I done this. Is that procedure described in the owner's manual?
As soon as I get them I will post here.
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Use your built in scan procedure from your insturment cluster and post the numbers. We can read them for you then.
Agreed. There are 4 O2 sensors, 1 in front of each converter and 1 behind. The front ones are typically the ones to die 1st since they get the brunt of hot gases with all the "goodies" still in them from combustion. Do a search of Reading codes, escentially, you have the KEY ON, hold the options button while pressing fuel 4 times-codes will come out if there are and C(urrent) or H(istorical) codes.
I forgot about that procedure! Thanks.
Now, it has been 2 years since I done this. Is that procedure described in the owner's manual?
As soon as I get them I will post here.
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You can delete the Uxxxx codes in the other modules. They indicate communication errors on the computer network in your Corvette. These errors occur from time to time as the network can get pretty busy on occasions. They are only useful if you have other symptoms (such as your remote key fobs and tire pressure sensors all seem to quit working at the same time) and all the other computers are reporting comm errors with the RFA (then you can pretty much guess your RFA has died or lost its network connection).
P0410 usually indicates a problem/failure of your AIR pump.
Go here for the Service Manual description of the problem and the diagnostics to fix it.
Just FYI on cars without an DIC (and frankly with DIC) , Autozone will scan your car for free if your check engine light is on
I realize that , but we don't have Autozone here.
Which brings up a question. If my friend's $150 scan tool gave a code of an oxygen sensor on the number one bank , does this mean all $150 scan tools should be thrown away?
I realize that , but we don't have Autozone here.
Which brings up a question. If my friend's $150 scan tool gave a code of an oxygen sensor on the number one bank , does this mean all $150 scan tools should be thrown away?
No, he either misread it or it's a manufacturer specific OBD code. The $150 readers generally read ONLY the GENERIC codes. Each manufacture can extend the codes to suit them-these are different between cars.
You can delete the Uxxxx codes in the other modules. They indicate communication errors on the computer network in your Corvette. These errors occur from time to time as the network can get pretty busy on occasions. They are only useful if you have other symptoms (such as your remote key fobs and tire pressure sensors all seem to quit working at the same time) and all the other computers are reporting comm errors with the RFA (then you can pretty much guess your RFA has died or lost its network connection).
P0410 usually indicates a problem/failure of your AIR pump.
Go here for the Service Manual description of the problem and the diagnostics to fix it.
Thanks so much for all the info. I put my ears on and hoped the car would be making that slight rattling noise I spoke of earlier.- no luck. The diagnostic procedure looks time consuming and I am assuming it would need to be done at the dealer.
I can get a good used air pump locally. Should I gamble that that might fix the problem?
Also where is the air pump located? Possibly is that it down low, just inside from the A/C compressor? Thanks
Thanks so much for all the info. I put my ears on and hoped the car would be making that slight rattling noise I spoke of earlier.- no luck. The diagnostic procedure looks time consuming and I am assuming it would need to be done at the dealer.
I can get a good used air pump locally. Should I gamble that that might fix the problem?
Also where is the air pump located? Possibly is that it down low, just inside from the A/C compressor? Thanks
The AIR pump is located where you virtually can't see it ...... locate the skid bar under the front of the car (it's those two metal bars that tend to scrape curbs when you pull in nose first). It is mounted to the left side of the skid bar frame (above the fascia close-out panel). It is a pain in the azz to see or get to without removing the lower close-out panel.
I suspect what you are looking at is the EBCM and BPMV system down by the A/C compressor. Does it have abour 6 brake lines coming out of the top of it ??? It is your brake control computer (EBCM - Electronic Brake Control Module that handles ABS, Traction Control, and other functions) and the pump (BPMV - Brake Pressure Modulation Valve) the EBCM commands to vary brake pressure to the individual calipers.
Check in the underhood fuse block .... inspect fuse #50 (20 Amp) and see if it is blown. If replacement of the fuse doesn't solve the problem, and you have inspected the electrical connections to the pump for a loose or corroded connection, then you can gamble that a replacement AIR pump will fix the problem.
I will assume from your description that was the brake computer I was looking at . Now that you describe the pump, I can picture it. [presently the car is stored in tight quarters till I can have a closer look at it]
The no. 50 maxifuse is OK so I will check connections at the pump and go from there.
Thanks afgain for your help.
OK. Back to my story. All connections, hoses, etc looked good at my air pump that had been throwing a code 0410HC. I considered a used pump but found a "new in the box" pump with matching part numbers on E-Bay from a dependable dealer. I installed the pump the other day and cleared out the codes. OK for a day, but then the service engine light came back on. I just checked for codes. Under 10PCM it is giving code P0141HC.
Thanking in advance for any help with this.
Last edited by Daleford; Aug 24, 2008 at 04:48 PM.
OK. Back to my story. All connections, hoses, etc looked good at my air pump that had been throwing a code 0410HC. I considered a used pump but found a "new in the box" pump with matching part numbers on E-Bay from a dependable dealer. I installed the pump the other day and cleared out the codes. OK for a day, but then the service engine light came back on. I just checked for codes. Under 10PCM it is giving code P0141HC.
Thanking in advance for any help with this.
OK Thanks.
I will get some help to check it out. Does this code lead me to "which" 02 sensor is faulty?
Could this be related to my earlier air pump problem?
OK Thanks.
I will get some help to check it out. Does this code lead me to "which" 02 sensor is faulty?
Could this be related to my earlier air pump problem?
That link shows 4 DTCS ... one for each O2 sensor. I didn't read through it close enough to see if they tell which code is for what O2 sensor location.
I would say if only one of the four O2 sensors are setting a DTC after installing an new AIR pump, then I'd say no, its probably not related. Not sure why this code didn't show up before, and now does after a new AIR pump was installed.
This DTC sounds like it's related to the heater getting the O2 sensor up to operating conditions inside of a set time frame.
Bank 1 is the driver's side .... sensor 2 (not cylinder 2 as in your original post) is the sensor to the rear of the catalytic converter.
This is the code your friend most likely found. Sounds like it is intermittent for now. It means that the Heated O2 sensor is not coming up to temperature quickly enough on cold starts.
First thing to do is inspect the wiring to that sensor. It is possible that the heat of the exhaust pipes has damaged (melted the insulation) the wires and they are grounding to the exhaust pipes, or to each other. There are 4 wires to the sensor, a BROWN wire which is the power (12 volts) to the heater element, a BLACK wire which is the ground for the heater circuit, and a PURPLE/WHITE and a TAN/WHITE that are the signal wires for the PCM.
If the wiring checks out OK (12 volts on the BROWN wire with the ignition turned ON) then replacement of the O2 sensor is the next step.