My post relates primarily to the volume side of the equation, not just pressure. I'm sure you would agree higher pressure does not always equal higher volume. When I hear the expression "more oil flow", to me, that usually refers to volume or AMOUNT of oil moving.

 

Not sure what you are talking about ? Sure, you can get higher pressures and lower flow by physically changing the system, like using a convergent hose nozzle on your water hose (or adding an oil cooler), BUT if you don't change physical parameters in an LS1 engine, more pressure equals more flow.

 

So you're saying that pressure is always more important than volume?
I'm saying they are BOTH important, that's all.

 

1) 2000 coupe
2)105,000
3)Mobil 1 5/30 and Mobil OF
4)high twentiese
5)low forties
6)50ish

Sorry I don't have the specifics. I was wondering about this very thing the last time my oil temp got elevated. Sounds like you and I are running about the same.

 

Took my car for a decent cruise today (mostly highway) and noticied that the oil temp was around 235 (ambient temp was 87). I've noticed that a few of you said your average "high" was around 200-210.
At long stop lights my coolant temp would get > 230. Is my car running too hot? Would it be a good idea to swap the thermostat to a 160 unit?

The difference in my oil pressure from 200-210 and 230 is quite significant. And the difference between cold and 230 is HUGE. Cold (a few mins after I start the vehicle) if I hold it at 4k I can see around 75psi (maybe more...it climbs pretty fast to the 70psi range then I let off). At 230 I'll be lucky to hit 60psi at WOT...55 psi would seem more realistic. At 1600 rpm at this temp I'm around 35-37psi. With the 3.42 gears I cruise at 2k rpm and its closer to 40psi at this temp. And, like I said, 60psi would be a stretch at any rpm at this temp.

I've recently replaced the pump with an ls6 pump (does anybody know the difference with this pump and the ls1 pump?) I'm positive I didn't pinch the oring and I used the new style oring as well. From what I remember the oil pressure is exactly the same as with the original ls1 unit. In addition, no matter what combination of oil and filters I throw at it, it is always the same. The car had like 29xxx miles when I bought it (it was a pampered car owned by an older gentleman) and I've never leaned on the car to hard and I'm not yet suspecting an issue with the motor. Is it possible the sending unit is bad? Any ideas? The pressure seems to be in-line with a lot of members but I wish it was a bit higher than it is. People with the Z06 seem to report higher pressure, if I have the same pump shouldn't I see pretty much the same pressure?

Thanks for any ideas.

 

This is from my owner's manual:

"Oil pressure should be between 20 to 80 psi (In certain situations such as long, extended idles on hot days, it could read as low as 6psi and still be considered normal.)..."

From that discription I'm looking good...except for the 6psi part...that would freak me out. I could definitly hit 80psi as long as the oil temp is around 100 degees. At 230+ degrees I would probably hit 80psi at 16,000 rpm

 

A 160 thermo combined with a fan temp reset will make a nice difference in your coolant temps and can have a little bit of a side benefit on oil temps. For hard core or extended high rpm stuff though, you would still need an oil cooler.

 

Thought I would post what I found in the service manual as far as oil pressure is concerned:

Hot minimum:

6psi @ 1000rpm
18psi @ 2000rpm
24psi @ 4000rpm

 

I dont have exact numbers (could check em tonight when I get home if it was really desired).

1. 2000 Convertible (6 speed)
2. 37k
3. Mobile 1 / Mobile 1
4. Idle: 26 psi (typically)
5. Crusing: 41-46 psi
6. Accelerating: I want to say upwards to 60

Stock pump and thermostat, stock everything except Corsa exhaust actually. Hope it helps

 

You don't want your oil to be < 190 all the time. Its good to let it get up there > 212 once in a while to boil out any disolved H2O in the oil from condenstion in the crank case. This is especially true with the long oil life and change cycles for synthetics.

I have a 160 degree thermostat and the fans come on at about 190. If I run the car hard on a hot day I can get the oil temp up to over 212 but I have to really run it out hard to get there.

 

Looks like I should also install a 160 thermostat and have the fans reprogrammed to come on at around 190. My oil temp is always > 220 once the car warms up (crusing down the highway)

 

After reading all the info on this post it looks like my oil pressure is about "normal". I still would like it a little higher, maybe I'll swap out the pump with a high volume/high pressure unit this winter. Or perhaps the sending unit is faulty. Maybe I'll stick a mechanical unit on there to compare.

 

1) 2002 Z06 / 18K
2) Mobil 1 / Wix or NAPA Gold filter
Oil temp 210~215 deg F
3) 30 psi
4) don't have notes in front of me.
5) ~50 psi

 

Or a flaky oil pressure sending unit. They fail quite often.

 

In a fixed flow system, the flow goes up with increased pressure.

I do agree however, that the actual oil pressure does not really give you added protection from metal on metal contact, as that is really a function of the oil film thickness and strength.

 

Clean out your A/C condenser and radiator fins!

 

Nothing abnormal about that ... oil is thicker and harder to pump when it's cold. Do you understand the physics of fluid viscosity, pressure and flow and how they all relate to each other? Your oil pressure when hot seems to be in the normal range too. Hitting 60 psi at high revs with 230 deg F oil is pretty good IMO.

I really don't know what you're worried about? Seems you're hung up on needing higher than normal oil pressure.

 

To answer a couple of your questions. The LS6 pump is the same part number for LS1'a after 2001. The later pumps had an improved gerotor. I've heard of pre-.01 pumps failing. So installing an 01 pump was a good thing while you were in there. What you could do to force a little more pressure would be to pull the pump, take out the pressure spring and shim it with a .100 to .120" shim and reinstall. This will give you ~ 5-7lbs. of increase. It might be enough to quiet your valve train a little after your cam install.

My pressure and stuff would not relate to your setup but I'll give you my specific's:
LPE 403 with LPE high volume oil pump and LPE oil cooler.
Cold idle 55-60 psi.
Hot idle 40-42 psi.
Cruising 1500-1800 rpm's 55-60psi.
WOT:
2000 rpm 62psi
4000 rpm 76psi
6000 rpm 82psi
6800 rpm 86psi (rev-limit)

The above numbers are approx.

I am running a forged rotating assembly with larger than oem bearing clearances so my pressures are lower than they would be with the same system built with oem tolerances. Be careful of installing a high volume/high pressure pump with oem tolerances. There is range to stay within. IIRC the Melling high volume pump isn't as highly recommended as the hi pressure pump for oem installs as the high volume pump could suck your sump dry and leave your engine with all the oil up top.

 

Isn't the Lingenfelter pump the same as the LS4 AFM pump?

 

I didn't see it to get a part number off of it, I spec'ed it in the build and had them install a front cover at the same time, but they state that it comes with 2 springs, a high pressure one and a low pressure one, and it's shipped with the high pressure one installed. I think that is how the Melling is shipped. Also, I think Melling is the oem supplier for the LS4 pump, so you may be right. I was using the Melling more as a point of reference rather than a recommendation. i.e. the real world differences between a high volume and a high pressure pump.