Hi everyone,

I'm in a bit of a pickle, so I can really apperciate some advice on this one.

In a nutshell: Car (1999 M6 Conv) is stuck at the ladyfriend's parkade. Tow truck can't get in there. There is absolutely no power to anything. It won't even crank.

Everythng was fine when first got into the car, when I put the key in and turned to ON, everything (interior lights/dash/display) flickered a few times and then everything died. I've tried jumping, but no crank.

Background story: I put the car away over winter and the stock battery finally died when i tried to start it up (this took place in March). Replaced the battery, started her up and notice a few funny things:

- a warning message came on when i first started and it went away after a few minutes of driving

- power steering wasn't completely there until about 20 mins of driving, then was fine

- during the first few days, while i was driving, the car completely shut off but then i was able to start it again. This never happened again so I kind of forgotten about it...till now.

- headlights, weren't flipping ON on command, lights would come on, just won't come up, (this happens even until now)

- I did the CLB last summer and since noticed from time to time that i hear the fuse box underneath the passenger floor clicking, (not sure if that means anything, just thought I'd add it in as much info as possible)

I've done some researching on past posts and saw something about the grounds being corroded, also have people suggesting alternator. I figured it was best to check with the experts on here for a few suggestions.

Any input/suggestions are greatly apperciated!

 

What was the warning message?

Turn on headlights and interior lights. Try to start. Do lights stay strong? Clean key with alcohol and try again or try your other key. If lights dim or go out then it looks like battery problem.

Door Number 1: If a sidepost battery, remove (make sure cable connectors are clean) and reattach cables making sure they are going on flush and make full contact. Be sure they are tight but do not overtighten. When I changed the battery, lights would light, bells would ring, but car wouldn't turn over. Had to reseat negative cable and then everything okay.

Once you do this, if car won't turnover try jumping again. If still no luck, I would have the battery load tested. Even new ones have failed, in a short time.

Door Number 2: Get a coupla friends and push car to where tow truck can access.

Someone else may have some other suggestions to try before you go through door 2.

Goodluck

 

If it won't start with a jump .....

Sure sounds like the ignition switch ..... "when I put the key in and turned to ON, everything (interior lights/dash/display) flickered a few times and then everything died" ....... try wiggling the key around when in the START position. It is possible you have a burned contact inside the switch .... moving the key around (pull it toward you .... push it away ... whatever) might get it working.

Take a look at Bill Curlee's AWESOME post on how to fix it yourself .....

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...light=ignition

 

My guess is alternator... and starter...

 

But here's the thing though. The car is completely dead right now. There is absolutely no power.

Meaning that there is absolutely no lights. Nothing happens when I open the door. The trunk won't even release for crying out loud, I have so much stuff stuck back there

I thought a bad starter would at least let you crank the engine but just doesn't start up. As well, doesn't the alternator just charges your battery as you run? Therefore, if the battery is toast and I have jumper cables, I should be getting some power to the car. Right now there's no power whatsoever

Thoughts?

 

I had a 2002 Pontiac that had power, and would not start. Could not be jumped. Battery was shorted internally. New battery, and she fired right up.

 

Again, What Was The Warning Message? Did You Have The Battery Load Tested? Did You Check The Cable Contacts?

 

If you have jumper cables .... disconnect your current battery COMPLETELY ..... (basically remove the battery from the car).

Attach the POSITIVE jumper cable to the POSITIVE battery cable. Have some rags or towels and wrap the exposed connection so when you set the cable down there is no exposed metal to short against the car.

Now attach the NEGATIVE jumper cable to the NEGATIVE battery cable.

You should now have power in the car. I would not try to start the car with this layout, but you'll be able to open the trunk or whatever.

This will show that the battery was the problem. Remove jumper cables and put a new battery in the car.

If, with the battery cables hooked directly to the jumper cables you still have no power ... I'd first check the negative cable where it is grounded to the frame. Often battery acid and or its fumes will corrode the connection. Once that is clean, try hooking the two negative cables to each other. If that still dosn't work attach the negative jumper to the bolt that holds the negative battery cable to the frame. If still no power .....

We assume the positive cable is bad. Disconnect the negative cables .... open the Underhood fuse block .... in the rear right corner you will see a nut that holds the positive cable. If your jumper cable fits, just put it on the nut. Now reconnect the negative jumper at the frame.

If you still have no power ... you have a serious wiring problem .... but I believe that you either have a bad battery (most likely) .... a bad ground connection ... or a bad cable.

Good luck,

 

I took the battery out of my '03 Z06 and replaced it with the Optima from my previous Vette. Put that battery from the Vette into my S-10 pickup, it needed a new one. One day I'm out doing errands close to home. Absolutely no problems or indications I was going to have any problems. All done and after last stop get in to go home. I turned the key and lights flickered but no start. Try again and absolutely nothing works, not even a glimmer of power anywhere. Turned out battery was dead and shorted internally. As soon as I installed a different battery it started right up and everything was working perfectly. If you haven't resolved this issue yet, go buy yourself a new battery. Even the ones Walmart sells are rated better than the one in your car. They're actually rated very good according to Consumer's Reports.

 

My money says when you replaced the battery, you tightened the side posts too hard and broke the terminal away from the internal connection on the new battery. It looks OK, but I bet you can wiggle the post on one side. This would also cause crazy light issues, shut offs and irregular codes.
What do I win?

 

Ok this looks a lot more promising now and I do hope you guys are right and it's just the crappy battery from Canadian Tire....or that I'm so strong I broke the terminal away like Tim said (How does a Gift Card sound? Providing that you win)

I'll be able to look at it closer towards the weekend, will keep you all posted.

Thanks again guys!

 

Be warned, if the post is broken, acid will leak out. Protect your car and clothing.

 

If you don't own a voltmeter, get one. It will help us help you if this problem gets hairy!

 

Tow truck drivers are big guys. Call a company with a flat bed, your dealer can suggest one. Explain the situation to the dispatcher and ask they send a driver with a helper. Guys whose number was in the 70s or 90s in high school. They will certainly be able to push the car out of your freind's car park, and if you are honest and upfront about the problem likely their sense of honor will prevent them charging you if they can't twist it to where they can load it. They also have power winches but you might want to get suggestions where it's safe to connect. Are you front in or back in?

i Invite criticism from anyone who's had bad experiences with this idea. My column lock is long since disabled so it would be no problem turning the car with a reasonably strong guy manually turning the wheel with the power steering off.

 

push ?

 

Wow? Really? I never would of thought of that one. Where should I send the gift card too?

Oh wait, except for the fact that it is on the 2nd level and I really don't want to navigate through a parkade down its narrow twists and turns unless I absolutely have to.

I will give the above suggestions a try today (actually have some time now). I'll keep you guys posted. Thanks too all those with valid suggestions

 

I would also ground both negative sides of the jumper cables to the frame of the respective cars instead of the negative side of the battery. If yours is shorted internally, you may also have to directly connect your side cables as suggested. If you don't do it this way, your shorted out battery could short out the one you jump from

 

Good suggestions above My guess would also be a battery issue or a main ground issue. Where are you located? Maybe there is a forum member that is close by you that can help ya out.

 

I was laughing at the post above mine
but since you have to ask how to move a car that won't start, again

 

Just trying to help. Honestly, when I wrote that I didn't, and still don't, really know what a "parkade" is and assumed it was some sort of tight spot.

To share the full story, I was a linebacker in HS and have had to keep the build at the gym 3-4 times a week to stay a few steps ahead of those nice men who wear blue and work with bright lights and sharp knives and are standing in line to fix me. But this isn't an ortho board, I digress. Once I had the plastic car die (ignition switch) while under major guard while parked in a storage unit for a month with about 2 ' clearance to the wall once she's out straight. A bit of a rush getting in and out with the motor on, without it who knows?

So OK pushing it out was a no-brainer. The fun part was me and the 2 ex linemen picking up and rotating the front end to the left, while the wife of one of them winched the left rear wheel to the right at the inside of the axel with a connection I just trusted them to make with a chain to their winch off their truck.

Got it on the flatbed, no problem. Left some streaks on the drive. Got it home to the dealer, they fixed the switch. I wonder if someday the left rear wheel will just fall off, but it's been 2 years and 10K miles, no vibration or funny sounds. I've always found that, er, how do I say this, normal people tend to underestimate what guys who work out can achieve when they gather in large groups. But that's a personal observation.

So maybe if it's really hard, get 4 big guys? 6? You own a Corvette, you can afford it. Just a suggestion if all the guys here smarter than me about the car can't figure out how to get you to start it in place. Tow it to a real mechanic? Otherwise, you're hosed.