I was driving my 2000 frc the other day and when I went to shift into 5th I think that somehow the reverse lockout didnt lock the shifter out and I made a mess out of my trans. Now when I put my car into reverse it comes out of reverse unless I hold it in reverse the entire time that I am backing up. Did I mess up the reverse gear or the synchro? While I am getting this fixed would it be best to get my clutch replaced to since it doesn't have much life left in it? would I save money by having both done at the same time?
Thanks Mark

 

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alot of trannies dont have syncros in the reverse gear.....not sure about these.

 

Maybe a bent fork? I don't know about tranny's but I'll bump to the top for ya, someone will chime in I hope!

 

I had the same issue with my 98. I had to hold the shifter to keep it in reverse. Bad syncro or a bent shift fork. I tried the alignment pin, but it did not do a thing for me. I also found this is a common problem with this transmission.

My research found that you don't have to take the transmission out to replace the syncros, you are better off taking it out, take it to a shop that speciallizes in transmissions.

The Tremac T56 is fairly common, take it apart yourself, if you have the tools, time and talent.

Oh yea, It was going to cost about $2k for someone to do the entire job, and there was only about $400 bucks or so estimated for parts. That was 3 years ago.

As far as clutch, by all means, get a new clutch and slave cylinder while it is apart.

I never repaired mine, cause it was totaled on black ice.

Good Luck

 

That is a nice chunk of money. Hopefully this wont cost me much more then a clutch install. Could I break anything else by driving it this way in the mean time?

 

I have had my tranny replaced and repaired many times. There is absolutely no way to replace syncros without removing tranny and I would not mess with doing it yourself. I have a guy in upstate NY that does an awesome job!! I would say he is one of the best in the country. It sounds like you rounded out reverse so it's no longer holding in gear. It's very strange that the reverse lockout didn't keep you from putting it into reverse. Problem is, once you do this you get all kinds of metal floating around in the tranny which will destroy your other gears. Right now, it's just reverse. 2000 miles from now it will be all moving gears that are damaged and warn. How many miles do you have on the car?

I would suggest removing the tranny, which is easy. Then, send it out to this guy to have tranny reconditioned. He will save any parts worth saving and replace anything that could potentially cause a future problem. What is wrong with your clutch? Tranny can be pulled without removing torque tube unless you have high miles on clutch and/or you are having clutch troubles. I agree on changing the slaave. That should be done at every clutch job, along with the pilot bearing. Let me know if you would like me to put you in contact with that tranny guy. I will tell you this about him! I went through 3 transmissions from road coursing and drag racing in just over 1 year. I had him build me a tranny last year and it's still going stronger than ever!!

 

I have 93,000 miles on my car with the original clutch in it. Right now my clutch is fine except it grabs a bit high (I hear this is normal for this car) I thought that to change the clutch the trans had to come out. That is why I thought I should do both at the same time because I bet that the clutch won't last much longer. I would be interested in your trans guy because I dont have any good trans guys that I know of.
Thanks Mark

 

Yes, the tranny should come out for the clutch but actually doesn't have to. WE actually back down the rear carriage, diff, tranny and torque tube just enough to clear the output shaft. Then, you can unbolt the clutch. It all depends on if you have tranny jack, car list etc. I would definately do your clutch at this time. DO you have access to a tranny jack and car lift? Are you pretty good with a wrench? I can walk you through the entire procedure real easily.

For a clutch, I would suggest the C6 clutch. DOn't bother with the C6 Z06 or an aftermarket clutch. I have 440 RWHP and I am running the stock C6 clutch. It's the same as the LUK Gold and it has no chatter at all. I drag race and have gone through many aftermarkets and realized the stock setup is just fine and easier on the wallet.

The cheapest place around is Carolina Clutch. You can order clutch, pp, flywheel, pilot bearing and slave at a great price. I would also suggest the speed bleeder mod. It's under $50.00 and worth it's weight in gold as they say. You can clean your clutch fluid periodically with the bleeder and that will help with you with keeping your pedal response.

 

Right now I dont have a place that would let me use thier lift. I will make a few calls and see what I can find. I have helped a buddy of mine put a clutch in a lifted f150 but I am sure this is a totally different then that.

 

Yea, the Corvette is alot different when it comes to getting to the clutch. Removal and insallation of the clutch itself is similar to any other clutch install though.