OK you guys are going to think this a really dumb question but.....

I've bought the metal plugs Eckler's sells and GM advises and understand that if one simply jacks the plastic car without them the frame will deform, perhaps expensively. They are in the back compartments in case I'm stranded somewhere needing mechanical work from an independant.

She's been up in the air a few times at Discount Tire for flats and replacements where they open all the doors, hood and hatche to prevent frame deformation without using the plugs (but dealer body shop still wants to fix it next time in...) At the dealer they lift with tires on also to do work BUT.

Ok. My 33 yrs ago HS auto shop training was -- use a hydralic jack at one point on a frame member, put UL Listed 2000# rated jack stands (solid metal) on another point of same frame member or better yet, once on either side before you put your once in a life time irreplaceable face and chest under a two-ton metal/plastic object. Avoid trusting your future to hydraulic fluid jacks. Mr Haverty was real specific about that to all the boys. I did this for years on various Ford and BMW products replacing starters, fuel pumps, U-joints, fuel filters etc.

I have zero access to a lift but would like to look at my starter. So many of you DIY guys are talking about doing under car stuff I'm sure it can be done but I don't see how to fit both a jackstand and a hydraulic jack on that tiny plug. Do you do the first lift off-center?

Please post a reply with pictures.

Thanks
Eric

 

First, most people agree that the C5 frames are stiff enough now that you do not need to worry about opening doors, hood, etc.
There should be lots of lift pictures if you do a search, but you can put the car on jack stands by lifting the sides using the jacking pucks, then supporting the car by jack stands at the chassis support points between the wheels. (front and rear)
I have a lifting board that will fit under the cross member in the back, with the jack in the middle, to allow for jackstands under the ends.
The main purpose of the jacking pucks is to keep the jack cradle off the lower body panels.

 

Give me your email address to byronhunter@hotmail(dot)com and I'll send you a scaned page from service manual.

 

PM me your email and I'll send you a pdf document I have that is pretty good with pictures.

-Rick

 

I read this a few years ago and made myself the wooden lifting pads as per the instructions.
They provide a rock solid means of putting your C5 on jack stands.
It is the only way I now do it.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...s&forum_id=103

 

I used to use the lifting pucks and jacking points, and still do if I'm going to use a tire shop style or two post lift.

I have lately found that for working on most things, I can ease the low profile aluminum back underneat the front crossmember and raise the car by it, carefully watching to make sure. They I can also use that same crossmember to support the car on either side of the back with jackstands. Then remove the low profile and repeat the above procedure using the rear crossmember (being careful not to contact the leaf spring in either case.

Obvously this rear location won't work for things like rear end or clutch/driveline work.

Using the pucks, the front ones try to raise the whole car since the weight is so evenly distributed. It is also difficult for me to get the rear lifting puck points high enough in the air to fit both the pucks and the jackstands in lowest position under the puck locations. My 2 ton low profile jack won't quite lift that high.

 

I think you quesiton has been answered by the other posts; just want to ensure you know that the c5 frame is extremely ridgid and the pucks or leaving the doors closed don't do anything to prevent the frame from warping; as it will not warp. Plastic (Or actually Sheet Molded Compound [SMC])and a very modern fiber composite is what the cars panels are made of. Frame is a large hydroformed boxed steel product.

 

The frame warping or fiberglass cracking stuff is a myth and doesn't apply to any year Corvette. However, you can cause the frame to dent if you lift the car on a single jacking puck so both tires on a side are off the ground enough times. I do this quite often at the track when I am working on the car and I have a dimple at each front shipping slot. If you use a piece of 2x4 you can get a large enough area the bottom of the frame won't dent from the pressure.

As far as getting jackstands under the car jack up the front on one side using the front shipping slot and a jacking puck. Once the cross member is high enough place the jackstand where it can bridge both parts of the cross member or just one part if it won't reach all the way across the cross member. Lower the jack and move to the front shipping slot on the other side and lift that side. Place your jackstand on the cross member and lower the jack. You can then either use the rear shipping slots or the rear cross member to jack the rear of the car. You can circle around the car a couple of times getting it higher each time.

Bill

 

Bill,
I know where to put the jacking puck, but I'm not sure what you mean by the shipping slot?

I hate to admit being so clueless, but a picture is worth 1000 words. Something that shows me exactly what to do?

Thanks,
Eric