Drivers Side Hot/Pass Side Cool again
Anyone have any ideas. Does anyone have any pictures of the air control box taken apart?
Thanks
-Justin






He was way low on charge, so we got him back within specifications. He still had problems with the drivers side, though. Hot deck to the max.
I removed the actuator and found a crack in the main gear. It had slipped on the output shaft.
I moved the gear and re-indexed the actuator, removed fuse 27 and let it sit for a while. Started it back up and she was good to go. (We still need to replace the actuator/gear though.)
When you say you have the gages on and it looks good, what pressures are you looking at on your high and low side? What was the ambient temperature? Were your radiator fans on high?
Did you take temperature readings directly from your ducts? If not, run to your local auto parts store and get an AC thermometer and place it in your ducts, then run your car down the freeway for 15 minutes or so. You should have temps a lot lower than 80 degrees. it should be closer to 60 degrees just sitting there in the driveway, and 45-50 degrees with good airflow across the condenser.
One more thing: Is your condenser clogged with weeds/leaves? Low airflow will mean higher pressures on the high side, giving you a false reading on how much charge you have and limiting the amount of heat that can be removed from the vehicle.
Good luck.
Mark
Read this
http://vette.tnreeds.com/actuator/actuator.htm
Acutators can be bought from GM for about $140, or you can try these:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Peter...spagenameZWDVW
Pics look like they are exactly the same...
I did mine about 4 months ago, and it fixed it. Mine happened after a cam install, and when the battery was plugged back in the actuator failed to index correctly, and threw a code.
I think it was 361 or 363. Hold fuel and press options 4 times slowly and then tell me what the HVAC codes are.
I'm in Texas, class of 2000, whoop. So let me know if you need more help.




