Hello, and thanks in advance for any help offered. 2001 C5 coupe w 65,000, A4. I am getting frequent active handling messages! I've read several posts after doing a search. While several were close, I didn't see my exact circumstances addressed. Background: I had ABSfixer.com rebuild my EBCM but have zero reason to suspect this to be problem (I trust his warranty if I need to send back). The ABS rebuilt ECBM seems to be doing its job a little too well. Could another sensor be sending messages telling EBCM to engage? I can feel myself braking, while getting active handling message, usually when theres a rough patch of road but sometimes totally random. It happens waaaay too much lately, something must be wrong. My mechanic couldn't suss it out so I thought I should post here. Another possible clue: usually after getting the active handling message, and on Fwy, the brakes feel rough when I depress lightly (like bad rotor) but grip OK if I push on brakes hard. In fact, pushing hard on brake seems to temporarily make problem go away (a few miles before next message). Tips or Suggestions appreciated! Thanks in advance!

PK

 

You need to display your DTC data. If you don't know how to do it go here ....

https://www.corvetteforum.com/techti...D=26&TopicID=1

When the AUTOMATIC display completes it will enter MANUAL mode. In that mode display and write down what codes you have.

A code looks like this ...... P 1234 C

The first letter will be either a P, B, C, or U ..... indicating which system the code is for.

The following 4 numbers are the code

The last letter will be a C or an H (sometimes both).

Post the ENTIRE code (as in the example ..... P1234C), and list ALL the codes found.

 

right, thank you... I'll check my codes then report back.

PK

 

I hit the jackpot! I have these error codes:

60-IPC B0516 H
60-IPC B0521 H

AO-LDCM B2202 H
AO-LDCM B2282 H
AO-LDCM B2284 H
AO-LDCM U1064 H
AO-LDCM U1096 H

A1-RDCM B2283 H
A1-RDCM B2285 H
A1-RDCM B2265 H
A1-RDCM U1064 H
A1-RDCM U1096 H

A6-SCM B2605 H

Sorry to bombard all at once. your help is appreciated alot! :0 Thanks for any guidance.

PK

edit:
PS, I researched the codes and none of these seem to be directly related to brakes. Another search revealed similar problem dealt with celaning connecotrs... worth a shot? Which connectors?

PK

 

I'm gonna guess that you've never cleared codes before. These are probably "old" codes from a low voltage situation. For example, the B0516 is an error in the data for the speedometer. When this error occurs the speedometer sets itself to read 200 MPH until the problem is cleared. I'd think you'd notice that ....

Here's what I would do ... go back into the MANUAL mode in the IPC diagnostic and as you display a DTC press and HOLD the RESET key until the code is deleted. Delete ALL of them.

OK, now back to your original issue .... since there are no codes for the problem .....

The EBCM runs the Active Handling program. That program uses input from the following sensors ....

* Yaw sensor - senses the speed the vehicle is "rotating" as it goes through a corner.

* Lateral accelerometer - senses the lateral acceleration (sideways G-force) as the car goes through a corner

* Steering Wheel Position Sensor (SWPS) - senses the angle that the steering wheel is turned to.

* wheel speed sensors (4) - calculated vehicle speed by averaging the reported wheel speeds of all 4 sensors.

The wheel speed sensors are probably NOT the problem as the ABS and Traction Control systems also use these sensors. If a sensor was causing a problem AH, ABS, and TC would all have a problem.

Most commonly it is the SWPS that starts to report bad data (it is reporting you turned the steering wheel when you didn't). The AH system is thinking "he turned the wheel but the car is not responding ... so I'll use the brakes to try and get the car to turn".

Have you noticed any ACTIVE HANDLING WARMING UP messages shortly after you started driving the car ???? That is a sign that one of the sensors is getting flakey.

At this point you have a couple of options .....

1) Continue to drive the car until the bad sensor gets bad enough for the EBCM to throw a code pointing to it.

2) Randomly replace sensors until the problem goes away.

If you decide on option 2 I'd recommend the SWPS be the first choice ... 9 times out of 10 that is the sensor that is failing.

 

Wow, Thanks! I appreciate your help, and yes, the active handling is warming up message has appeared a few times recently.

Thanks again,

PK

 

BlackZ06 and pk51st,

2002 C5 25K miles active handling/ Cruise Control issues

Thanks for this conversation I noticed tonight. I've been having a problem where cruise control get's disengaged by active handling at bumps on long drives on I-35 from Dallas-Austin or Dallas-San Antonio, or on drives to our northern suburbs on sadly abused freeways (I-35 again). Very distracting. But not while going over abrupt bumps on urban streets in Dallas. I'd been wondering why when on the "rolling" interstate (30' long concrete blocks tilted up and down by overweight 18 wheelers) I'd have a "hyperactive active handling - like your wording" when I crossed a bigger than average bump between two blocks fires AH that kills CC, yet nothing happens when I hit a sharp bump on an urban street no roll flat as a pankake just a manhole cover with CC on. Pitch, yaw, and roll. We aren't yawing, but we're pitching and rolling. But less on the urban street than I-35. Which sensor?

My "fix" has been to disengage active handling whenever I use cruise control.

Oh, and no codes at all (I know how to get them from IPC).

Black06, would you still think it's the SWPS, or maybe another sensor? Can you describe how hard it would be to replace the sensor you suggest at fault? DIY or dealership?

I've been getting "active handling warming up" messages since I took the plastic car off the drive.

Thanks,
Eric

 

Sorry, didn't see you had posted this until now (I really don't like this new forum software ..... .... the display of "Recent Topics" sucks .....) .....

Hard to say which sensor is acting up .... the yaw and lateral accelerometer are really looking at horizontal forces ... not vertical forces (bumps) so they should not be affected ... but anything is possible.

The most difficult of the three to replace is the SWPS ... and many people have done it themselves .... none of the sensors require special tools ... it is really just a matter of taking some stuff apart to get to them .... unplug them ... and put it all back together.

Accelerometer is below passenger seat ... remove seat ... unbolt sensor ... unplug ... replace.

Yaw sensor .... remove console and trim plate around radio/HVAC. Yaw sensor is below HVAC (behind ashtray) ... unbolt and unplug .... replace.

SWPS .... undo steering column in engine compartment ... remove knee bolster .... unbolt steering column from mounting .... pull column into car .... SWPS is attached to end of column (it's shaped like a donut and fits around the base of the column) ... remove, unplug, .... replace.

I can give you more details .... just wanted to give you a rough idea ... none are difficult.

If I had to make a choice ... I'd go with replacing the SWPS ... the other two seem to rarely fail ... 9 times out of ten it is the SWPS that gets flakey.

 

Eric,
Read your complaint and have a question. Does AH activate if you put it into Competition Mode while driving over these bumps? The reason I ask is your symptoms seem to relate to Traction Control more than AH. Traction Control can react differently to different types of bumps especially if there is space for the wheel to momentarily break contact with the ground when you hit the bump or if the rear wheels do not hit the bump at the same time due to crossing it at an angle. I have something similar happen on my Tahoe with Stabilitrack. If a single wheel breaks traction (in my case I was driving in heavy rain and the front tires were alternately breaking traction in puddles) TC is triggered and the cruise is cancelled.

AH will activate when the steering wheel is turned and there is sufficient yaw rate difference to get out of the programmed dead zone. The dead zone narrows as speed increases.

Bill